Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Cooler Clogged
Jun 6, 2015
I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
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I know I have a clogged oil cooler and normally I'm not home much during the summer months to know how it does during the summer. The outside temperature is around 95*, but the thermostat on the Ex is reading from 102 to 112, and it actually read 122 yesterday. Also, with the hot weather, I'm not noticing the fan kicking on under normal driving without a load. The AC is working, but it's not the ice cold AC I'm use to and does get better while cruising down the highway.
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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Couple weeks ago fuel tank started coming apart clogged all filters. Replaced tank filters and fuel pump and blew out all of lines. Started and ran fine. Stays plugged in over night but now it'll crank but wont start. No codes showing up or anything...
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My truck started to display exhaust filter clogged and cleaning exhaust filter multiple times today. The cleaning exhaust message stayed on until I hot OK and then it comes back later. Not sure what this means?
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
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2004 6.0 90k miles... Oil cooler plugged & coolant puking due to egr cooler flash boil.
Flushed the coolant with tap water then replaced water pump and tstat weekend before. This week backflushed heater core & block. This weekend backflushed the oil cooler. My coolant system would be considered severe contamination due to tap water use resulting in rust. Average ect was 195-205 & avg eot was 230-240 before flush. Here's a baseline before flush.
Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac. The pressure was pretty intense holding the hose into the bore just running water through it. Hit the trigger about 20 cycles of water then air blasts.
Filled with 1/2 gal of restore & tap water. Ran it for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Then dumped restore while hot, was pretty cloudy but not that dirty. Let engine cool then filled with tap water, ran for 10 mins then dumped again. Stuck hose in degas with only the the drivers block plug pulled & revved engine a few times to have the water pump push any crap out. Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac again. This time the back pressure on oil cooler was much less vs first time.
Took a mason jar with restore plus in it & boiled it in water. Got it up to 190 then poured it directly into the oil cooler & let it sit for 30 minutes. Then backflushed again.
Put rest of the whole gallon of restore plus in & topped off with tap water. Ran again for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Dumped restore plus while hot & it was very green & contaminated with rust. Topped off with tap water, ran for 10 mins at 190 then dumped. Revved the engine again with hose in the degas bottle & only drivers block plug out to blow more junk out. Filled with tap water & dumped again.
It was late last night so I filled it with distilled & parked it. Plan to do 3 straight distilled water flushes this week running rpm 1k+ for 1 hour each time in hopes to rid all the chemicals.
The backflush didn't result in lower deltas, but it didn't puke from the degas bottle at all during both chemical flushes. The oil cooler definitely needs replaced but at least it's not puking anymore & will hopefully stay this way for about 1k miles of driving so I can let the coolant filter rid anything that breaks loose during driving. My hope was to get some sort of flow across the egr cooler to stop the flash boiling puking & get as much junk out of the system as possible. So I guess there's some sort of achievement in the end.
Currently running cheap regular green (mixes with all) elc. I am running the cheap stuff because when the coolant was puking a gallon of coolant every trip i couldn't justify upgrading to the Rotella ELC yet. Plan is to flush with rest of restore(1/2 gallon) after oil cooler r&r then switch to Rotella ELC.
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
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My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
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Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
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After pulling my fifth wheel, I will unhook and the truck sits. The next morning, the truck will sound like it is wheezing for about a minute or so... I high pitched whine sorta. But only on the cooler mornings, after towing.
Thoughts on this? Can't really take it to the dealer yet because its too sporadic.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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