I recently bought this Ford F250 6 with 117k... I've had it 3 weeks and it is now at 120k... My Odometer is reading Fast. From Tucson to Phoenix it read 302 mi, on my trip monitor it read 102 mi.. I've made this trip many times before and 102 miles is about right. It's a big issue because I get paid by the mile.
View 13 RepliesI'm just curries as to the highest millage on a 6.7. I have a 2011 and only 36,000. My 7.3 had near 300,000 when I sold her and the engine was still running strong. Wondering if the 6.7 has that same longevity.
View 14 RepliesYesterday I noticed when I parked my truck the Speedo was reading 10 mph. I drove around a bit and used my GPS to get my real speed which was 10 under what the Speedo read. I parked the truck for the night and in the morning nothing had changed, I drove for a bit and all the sudden the Speedo worked like normal.
Later that say the Speedo got stuck at 50 mph and now when I stop it reads anywhere between 50 to 60 mph and goes up from there. When I'm doing 30 mph it'll read 80 to 90 mph. Cruising on the highway it reads well over 100 mph.
I've done some reading and it seems like it either the cluster or a speed sensor. My cluster has had a lot of problems lately of not working at all, no gauges work, radio turns off and the Windows don't work but a good slap on the dash will fix that most of the time.
I tried searching here for a pid to get oil pressure. Can't find it. Is it possible to get oil pressure readings on these motors? I assumed it would be because we have a dummy oil pressure gauge on the dash. I thought it would be in the pop up list of gauges on Torque but I didn't see it.
View 6 RepliesMy truck was parked at home and hadn't been started for 10 days. When I did start it for the first time, I heard the cooling fan spooling up or down, consistent with the engine rpm. After pulling away from my home I saw the fan speed spool up to near 2,800 rpm during the short period it was locked-in with the engine speed.
While driving out of my neighborhood, and about 1/3 of a mile from my house, the fan returned to normal speed of about 480 rpm. I have the FSS pid displayed on my Scangauge and was able to see the fan speed while hearing it. Now I know what the fan sounds like at a high rpm. It makes quite a roar.
This has never happened before. I've driven the truck a few times since then and it hasn't occurred again. What may have caused this?
I've had a scangauge on my truck for years and today while on vacation I noticed the voltage was fluctuating between 12.5-13.5 while driving. It has always ran at 13.5-13.7 .... I checked it with a fluke and it is a solid and steady 13.8v at idle. Why would that gauge be fluctuating like that? Truck seems to be running fine.
View 6 RepliesThe oil and water readings on my SG have been gradually climbing for the last few year to where they are about 15* above the ambient temperature after sitting over night. My question is could the values for the other readings be getting high. For instance going down the road at 65mph my ICP was 1250 and my IPR was 62.
View 3 RepliesJust changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
View 14 RepliesFast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
Late build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
View 7 RepliesGot a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
Just got the car back from lexus service and realized it changed to kms...wanted to see if i can do it at home rather making another trip to the service department.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Buick Century which I love. Paid for, low maintenance, reliable, good interior,........ But a few years a go the Odometer stopped reading out. Then one day when it was really cold I got a reading. It warmed up the next day and it was gone and has not returned. This part of the dash is digital not mechanical. I also can not read what gear my shifter is in (so I count 1= park 2=reverse 3=drive). I have been told that this is a cluster which needs tot be fixed. After they pull the dash, then the part, repair the part and send it back to be replaced. Really....there is no light or this could be seen.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
View 3 RepliesSo i am writing for my Aunt and her 2005 prius. She had it in for a tune up drove it home and it died. Started up again and was fine after about ten minutes. Now the wierd part. She brought it in to see what happened etc all is fine and she starts to drive home and the odometer is reading roughly 30,000 miles less then when she brought it in...
View 8 RepliesOk so the saga is continuing, not sure if its because enigma hates this mod or if I shorted something out when I was cutting the wires and mistakenly touched the ends together (protected terminal ends) some how or the monitor piece is just old and the fact that it has been my previous truck and this truck for a total combined 8+ years causing this conundrum....anyways the gauge seems to work (yay?) but it looks to read only "8"DC V?? but I know the power port (in dash) works as expected....so I am a bit lost here....one of the digits does look to be faded out as if the device perhaps is going bad and needs replacement....
View 11 RepliesI recently purchased a 2009 LS 460, and I was wondering is their anyway to remove the display of the odometer reading for the entire mileage on the car?
View 7 RepliesWhat else besides a sticky plunger, would cause the fp reading to be all over the map. According to my gauge, I'm at 78/79psi at idle, but can see it dip to 70ish or spike to 90 while using our driving. My cv's are removed, fp reading is pre-filter and wiring seems good....
View 4 Replies2002 f250 7.3l diesel...
I got a new radiator and the tranny fluid was the worst the mechanic had ever seen. He serviced it and warned me that it might not be long for this world. I broke my flexplate and so I had to pull the tranny, and I decided to throw a new torque converter in because it was giving g me symptoms like a broken sprag( it wouldn't rev up or do a brake stand in gear, therefore slow takeoffs).
I was recommended to replace the tranny, I decided I could do the job again down the road if I needed to. About two thousand miles down the road I had a hard shift going from overdrive down to get up a hill and about 10 miles later the truck started slowing down....I couldn't give it enough pedal to keep it going and the engine sounded rough.
I pulled over and checked fluids and everything was fine, truck idled fine, bright red tranny fluid not burnt at all. Pulled on to the road again and it pulled fine until about 40 mph and it wouldn't go any faster. I got it towed home and ordered up a tranny from Ford figuring it must be toast, but I thought I'd throw it out to the forum to see if there is any other troubleshooting I can do before I install the new one in case it is some other problem or some electrical harness or something, or if that is a pretty standard reaction to a fried tranny.
Engine runs good at idle, shifts perfectly to drive and reverse, drives forward and back(I'm very hesitant to drive it out of the driveway in case I can't get it back in). Only happened two times before I decided to tow it. Temps looked fine on the gauges, fluid was a little overfilled in the tranny, but again, not hot or burnt.