So what size nut is on the outer tie rod? So far I'm good on the ball joint nuts, calipers, caliper bracket, hub to knuckle (21mm or 22mm--but either way I'm good), and locking hub. I'm putting this all down in my manual so I don't have to guess since i have to load everything up when doing the heavy work.
View 6 RepliesI know jack about tie rods. But what I do know is the passenger lower-outer tie rod is clunky [Right where it connects near the wheel. Jacked up the truck and moved the tire from right to left and the passenger side lower tie rod made a very obvious clunking noise right where it connects with the upper piece.
My question is, can I just replace the passenger lower arm or do I need to replace the upper [not sure what it's called] that it connects into? While under the truck I found it difficult to figure out exactly how they are joined together and taken apart? My drivers side is nice and tight, no clunking.
2005 F-250 CREW CAB 4X4
I'm not anywhere I can look this up, what is the size of the oil pan on a 2016 6.7? I just need the length / width of the bottom of the pan.
View 5 RepliesWhat the size of the internal oring is? So far I have had no luck finding the size. I'm looking for the lower housing to body oring.
View 14 RepliesI'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
View 14 RepliesWhat is the size of the nut that needs to be removed so I can pull the carrier bearing off the drive shaft? I need to purchase a socket.
View 14 RepliesI have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
View 11 RepliesWhat is the weight of motor planning on doing studs in future and need to know what size stand and picker to buy. Pulling cab isn't option cus no lift and stand was planning on buying one 2 times the weight so it's good to hold for the weeks to get it done around work.
View 9 RepliesNeed to know the thread pitch and diameter for the water pump pulley bolts? The previous owner of the engine I bought clearly didn't know how to get the fan off as the pulley and plastic fan are both loose so I cannot loosen large nut.
View 1 RepliesSo my outer axle seal went out on the passenger side again after only 4,000 miles. What gives!? I can't figure out why its burning up. My hubs seem to be working correctly. I've only used the 4wd a hand full of times since I replaced it. Any thoughts?
View 10 RepliesWell I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?
Can I re-use this shaft or is that ring around it no good. The ring is around where the bearing sits. It is a circumferential hump all the way around.
View 14 Repliesjust installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
View 4 Replies1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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