2007 F250SD, R/H power mirror with LED lights no work. All other lights and L/H mirror work fine. Checked the fuse in passenger compartment, it's good. Where to start looking?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 6.7l super duty Lariat. I want to install flashing LED lights to work in conjunction with the hazard lights. The leds have their own controller and will be separate from any other lights/wiring. What I need is some way to trigger a relay to turn on the led's. Was hoping to tap into the hot lead off the hazard switch itself but that's not an option!
View 2 Replies2011 F-350 6.7L. Three years old. 60,000 miles. The lights and radio work, but she won't turn over. Tried a jump start from a car with no response from truck. Wrecker coming.
View 14 RepliesIt's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
View 8 RepliesMy truck has done this since I got it and it's pretty damn annoying. While at idle the rear view mirror vibrates slightly and drives me nuts. If you give it any gas at all it stops. Like I said its super slight but it's enough to notice for sure and makes stuff look blurry if your looking through it.
View 5 RepliesCouldn't make it 10,000 miles........without a failure.
My driver's side mirror finally broke. It will no longer power fold. It's been slowly dying over the last few weeks, getting slower and slower. Now it won't move on it's own and the electric motor hardly makes any noise/effort trying to move the mirror.
I would assume that should be replaced under warranty but who knows... We'll see what service says about it tomorrow.
Hearing a whistle noise after installing the Recon smoked turn signal lense? The whistle starts between 40 and 50 mph and is the driver side only. I have triple checked the installation and it has the same clearance all the way around as the left side. I sent Recon an email on Jan 5th about this issue and still haven't heard back from them.
View 14 RepliesMy folding mirror on the drivers side folds out good but when bringing it back there is a clicking sound and it doesn't move, a slight pull on it and it comes back ok. 2011 F350 SD.
View 7 RepliesHaving issues with their mirrors folding in? One of mine makes a popping sound and will not fold in or out. I can hear the motor running, sounds like a gear is out of alignment. Have tried to reposition manually with no luck. Is there a rebuild kit for the internals or will I need the entire mirror assembly?
View 14 RepliesI Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
View 7 RepliesI added LED lights to illuminate the running boards on my Lariat. Did this about 15 months ago and all was fine until this week and I noticed they weren't coming on any longer. Both sides are out of commission. The running board lights on each side are wired to the respective plug for the running board lights on each side. The interior lights that are on the same circuit work fine (fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box).
So I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why both sides have gone out at the same time but the fuse is ok. It's winter here and my truck doesn't completely in the garage so I'm hoping to limit my time lying under the truck out in the cold, on a wet floor! I thought there might be another fuse in the engine compartment fuse box but there isn't, at least according to the manual.
I can't get the damn auto unlock to work. I've enabled it and disabled it and nothing still reset it all and all that just got the truck....
View 7 RepliesSo I bought my truck about three months ago. The first day I got it I obviously wasn't paying so much attention to the key, that I didn't notice that my keyfob wouldn't work at all or had limited distance. Anyways, I go to the dealership and the keyfob(Normal one, NO Remote Start) works perfect for them every time. I have been so frustrated with this for a couple of weeks now, I decided to take it into my own hands and take it apart and see whats going in there.
On the top right side of the key, there is a gap between the two plastic pieces that you can fit a flathead in and turn to open up the actual key. In between those pieces is a rubber mat type thing, I assume to keep water out. After you take that off, you will see the battery. On BOTH of my keys, there was this clear goo stuff, which again I will assume that it's some sort of contact/battery protector put on by the factory.
Well the text on the inside of the key says not to wipe the battery contacts, but I took a Cu-Tip and got all the clear stuff off the battery and contacts! I now have 100 yard distance with my key. It works EVERYTIME now.
My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
View 14 RepliesI have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
View 14 RepliesI noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
I have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed
I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
View 8 RepliesI have the later model 2004 F250 6.0 (built May 2004). I have owned it since new. It has 157K miles.
My newest problem comes after I did oil cooler work. I know everyone points to the IPR and/or ICP, but my readings seem strange to me.
About three weeks ago I replaced the oil cooler with a Bulletproof remote unit that uses the factory oil cooler. During the job I removed and installed a new Ford IPR sensor and added the improved screen to it. I removed and installed new Ford water/oil temp sensors, a Ford low oil pressure sensor, and a Ford ICP sensor (in the pax valve cover). I also installed the improved turbo feed line and turbo drain tube. I rebuilt the oil filter/fuel housing and installed new o-rings and the blue spring. I have the dual alternator set-up and had been running the lower alternator unplugged for the last several years. (I know I know). So I swapped in a reman alternator.
I managed start-up after running batteries dead a few times. During the drive I felt idle speed jump up by itself a few times while at low RPM. I felt an unusual skip or two in the motor but the power seemed ok. I accelerated and the truck pulled fine. At highway speed I heard what sounded like the engine hitting a high rev and trying to cut out, but it was very mild. I noticed this first at 2000rpm, but it may have not been pronounced enough for me to notice it at lower RPM. When the cut-out occurred strongest I slammed the throttle down to see if the problem would worsen, but the truck accelerated well with no cut-out, but when I eased off the throttle at higher RPM the cutting out returned. My Banks IQ showed P2284.
I installed 2 new batteries and replaced the ICP pigtail and soldiered it. That had no effect. I put the old ICP sensor back in. That had no effect. I borrowed a Snap-on Solus Edge scanner to test the truck. I would add that the truck starts up as quick as it has always started; 3-5 seconds.
Scanner results:
Key-on, engine off, ICP (voltage) reads .25, IPR reads 15.
During the crank sequence (before engine start), on a freeze frame, RPM is 157, ICP(voltage) reads 1.04, IPR reads 21, ICP pressure reads 768.8 psi. That seemed kinda normal.
Engine running at idle RPM, I read ICP (voltage) 1.2, IPR 15, ICP pressure 863.1psi. That seemed okay.
I drove the truck with a cleared code and noted that something occurred to change my readings. Before the change while driving under a short heavy acceleration to 54mph, I noted these readings: 3533rpm, ICP (voltage) 3.77, IPR 60, ICP pressure 3400.1. I eased off the throttle, stopped the truck, and noted an uncommanded REV-up by a few hundred RPM and back to idle. It was a quick burp. Afterwards ICP pressure and IPR readings went strange and the code 2284 came up. Looking at the graphs over time, RPM, ICP pressure, ICP voltage, and IPR all follow a similar curve---until the REV-up occurred.
The scanner next showed that as I mildly accelerated to 1705 RPM (about 15mph) graphs showed ICP voltage, ICP pressure, and IPR went up. But when I let off the throttle ICP pressure became fixed at 869.9. I continued to drive the truck.
The truck accelerated fine as it had under previous runs. The Scanner shows that although ICP pressure remains fixed, the ICP voltage climbs and falls with RPM. With RPM ranging from 630 to 1800, IPR holds at about 30. Then under a very heavy acceleration to 44mph, ICP pressure began to increase above 869.9, then followed ICP voltage upwards. ICP pressure climbed to 3479psi with an ICP voltage of 4.64. At that moment IPR read 69%. That seemed normal until I let off the throttle. Then ICP pressure drops back to exactly 869.9 which I assume is some sort of PCM-induced value.
It is during this time at higher RPMs I can hear the engine-cut-outs, but they are mild and the engine still responds to heavy acceleration. I have accelerated full throttle to 100mph and saw max boost values of 29psi (stock program). On engine shut-down and restart the problem seems to reset itself and the truck will run normally for a bit before the failure occurs.
To correct the problem I have removed the banks equipment. There was no change. I have ordered the ICP short connector that will allow me to test actual voltage on the ICP while the engine is running. I plan to soldier some wires and run the meter into the cab for testing.
The scanner reads a desired ICP pressure as well as the actual ICP pressure. When the failure occurs both the desired and actual read 869.9 at less than heavy acceleration.
The scanner also reads desired RPM as well as actual RPM. Desired RPM remains pegged at 640rpm all the time.
Also, engine running the FICM voltage in is 13.5 and voltage out was 47.5.
On the very last test run I got two new codes: P2138 and P2140. I had run the truck with my foot on the floor on that test. Is this a glitch or does this play into my problem?
So, I've been having cold start issues for a couple of years now especially when temps get below 25 or so. It started with virtually no issues until temps got into the 20's but got to the point this year where it run a little rough at startup even in the summer. Once ECT gets up around 140* it runs pretty good.
I took it to a diesel shop last year and was told I had 1 bad injector and a bad glow plug. I couldn't afford to do the work, so I waited.
Now after researching this site, I'm more inclined to think it may just be the FICM. I've seen scangauge numbers in the low 20's up to 48.5. On cold morning FCM will usually start in the low 30's and gradually work up to upper 40's. The batteries were both replaced 2 years ago, but I probably should give them a load test. The alternator voltages vary from 11.0 to 12.5 when cold and 12.5 to 14 once warmed up. I have noticed that the AC blower will slow down a little when I sit at a red light, and then pick up again when taking off. I don't notice it with headlights or anything else.
According to Bismarc's spreadsheet, alternator numbers seem to be in the acceptable range, but I don't want to get a new FICM and fry it with a bad alternator. I can get the alternator or the FICM now, but if I need to do both at once I'll need to wait a bit longer.