Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Power At Operating Temperature?
Jun 11, 2016
This is my wife's daily driver so I've got to get it done this weekend. 05 Excursion with 04 motor, 95,xxx miles. No problems until Friday. My wife drove to Seattle for a physical therapy appointment for my daughter and when leaving she said it felt like it was idling a little weird. She was at a stop light and when it turned green she could barely move, no power. Called me and everything sounded good from the Edge. Had the truck towed from Seattle to our house, about 60 miles. Idles really rough in drive, smooth's out a bit when in neutral. Starts totally fine when cold or hot, but doesn't start acting up until at working temp. When I say there is no power I mean the truck won't even pull up our drive way that only has a slight incline and is the length of the Excursion.
Only code I get is a P1000, but that is always on the tuner for some reason. I pulled the upper fuel filter and I'm getting fuel. Checked all the fittings I can see and nothing electrical seems out of the ordinary. New IPR and ICP within the last year. Tried disconnecting the EGR and it ran the same, but threw a P0403 and P0405 code. I've tried researching this and can't seem to find anything having to do with loss of power when hot. Sitting in the street in front of the house with the truck running I show an ICP of 750psi IPR of 28% @ 680 RPM VGT is 64.6 and MAF is 44.0. I can hear the turbo whistle, but show 0 boost which I think is normal when no load. I tried pulling into the drive when at temp and the truck was hitting 1000 rpm with pedal to the floor and wouldn't move, shaking and rough the entire time. Before all this my delta on EOT and ECT were under 5*
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I replaced my fan clutch... Not a bad job, did it a couple weeks ago. I don't drive the truck much, but took it out today for the second time in the two weeks since I replaced it. The fan stays engaged until the truck hit operating temperature it seems. Is that normal?
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My best friend has a 2011 Ford F-250 6.7 ltd power stroke diesel XL. He was driving to Denver in -4 degree weather when all of a sudden his windows iced up and the temperature gage would not sit at normal operating range. ( stayed all the way down on the cool side) the heater seemed to be blowing warm air not hot like it usually does. The thermostat was changed 2 months ago any thoughts on this one?
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I have a 2000 F250, 300k. Starts beautifully when cold, takes 10 seconds of cranking when at Operating Temperature. Did the injectors and plugs in September, kept doing it and now that it's summer it's getting harder and harder to start. Just replaced the ipr, still doing it. Gonna do an overdue oil change tonight or tomorrow, I'm hopeing that will improve it. I can understand 3 or 4 sec of cranking, but not 10. Truck hads no drivability issues whatsoever. Will an ICP fix it? Change to a heavy-duty 20w-50? (Last oil change was delo 15w-40) The code reader that I have is really basic, and only shows me RPM and map.
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I have replaced the EGR over 1 month ago and also replaced the MAP sensor also as it was bad. I also have a Scan gauge, for monitoring.
The problem is once the truck gets to OT and the valve opens I have heavy black smoke on take off?
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When I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
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I have a 2007 F250 6.0 L with 116000 miles. I have never done any modifications or changed anything on the truck. Now that the weather is starting to warm up I've noticed that once the truck is at operating temperature it starts to chug and sometimes even die while driving and while its doing this the truck has no power. It does not seem to do it when its cold. Here is a picture of my gauges KOEO operating temp at idle...
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The other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
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I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
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I cannot believe outside temp is not available on 2015's...I don't see it on any screen or in the manual.
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What is the average temp the transmission runs at? Wondering because it slipped the other day and the fluid smelt like it was burnt almost. Wanting to monitor it on my scan gauge and just try to ride it out as long as possible..
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
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I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
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I've had a Scan Gauge II in the truck for the last 3+ years and usually have it showing ECT EOT FICM main power and volts. For all that time, my numbers have been normal until last month. With the engine up to temperature (ECT at 190 or higher), my EOT is lagging behind - sometimes 20* cooler. I've also noticed the EOT jumping around for no apparent reason.
From what I understand of the 6.0 cooling system, the oil is cooled by the coolant and what I'm seeing shouldn't happen if the engine is up to temperature. The obvious fix is to swap out the EOT sensor but I figured I'd ask the experts first. Any thoughts?
2005 dually crew cab with 105k.
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P0073 Ambient air temperature sensor circuit high. Preliminary inspection, right outside mirror badly damaged/broken. Guess where the sensor is?
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My check engine light popped on for me a couple days ago. P2043-reductant temperature sensor range/performance. Truck still runs like a raped ape, no change in driveability. Just over 21k miles. No "speed limited to 55" messages or anything else. Basically no change in the truck other than the light.
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
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OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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