Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Power - IPR % Stuck On 89
Jul 23, 2015
Yesterday truck starts running like it gas no power and I look and th IPR % is stuck on 89. I finally shut it off started back up and all is well. This sensor was replaced 2 months ago and it's a factory item. What would cause this?
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My coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
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I have a lariat (auto climate control) and I just finished reassembling the engine and I noticed that the AC blower goes on full whenever you turn the key on.
According to the AC panel it seems to be off. Where should I start looking? AC is very important here... its already regularly over 100 degrees here.
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2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
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I haven't used my gn ball for probably 3 years went to pull it out and flip it over to use it and it is stuck solid. Tried pb blaster trans fluid hammering on it jacking the truck up by it heating it and no go. How to get it out.
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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New to me 05 6L. I bought it out of town and they delivered it today, I picked it up and noticed the fuel gauge was way past empty, no fuel warning light or anything on.
So I mistakenly decided the fuel gauge wasn't working right (they just drove it 200 miles) as theres no way the seller would cut it that close on fuel.
I drove it to insurance place did another errand before I got fuel. Shut it off and it wouldn't start again. Tried it a couple times before it clicked it was out of fuel.
Borrowed a truck and went for fuel. Still no start , took the top off fuel filter , nothing in it. Recycled key 10 times still no fuel?
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I was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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Backed up into a bush and it seems it was a little bit more stout than expected. There was a large branch that pushed my tailgate latch so far up now it's stuck. If you look at the pics below, there's a tab on the right hand side that was over extended and now stuck/holding the handle up. I'm a little reluctant to just try hitting it as hard as i can out of fear that I'll snap something.
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I recently installed an egr delete and ever since, my vents have been stuck to the upper dash no matter which setting I put on. The vent will push the air conditioning, regular air and heat all the same. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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Transmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
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I have a 2004 F250 I just had a Ford transmission out in it. when the truck is cold it runs great. buy when it gets warm it gets stuck in a gear, even if I drop it into a lower gear. Also, if I cut it off when this happens and i cut it off it will not turn over as if it's not in gear, in park or neutral, but if I let it sit for about 20 minutes it will turn over and run as it should until it warms up again.
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I have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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Replacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
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Stuck turbo and high deltas so I replaced the oil cooler, coolant, thermostat, rebuilt turbo. Etc etc. Now I'm getting p2284/p2285 intermittently. Upon inspection ICP looks great at idle and 2500. IPR at hot idle is 20.9 but when you run it up to 2500, it drops to 14.7 and after a few seconds hpop at idle jumps to 875 and I get the p2284/2285. Bad IPR?
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I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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