Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Back-up Sensors After Remote Start Install
Jun 12, 2016
I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Nothing mechanical, fuel filter change and coolant check. While its there I am going to have them look at a few things:
1. Back up sensors - they work intermittently with a message that comes up saying "check back up sensors" or something to that affect on the display. The icon on the display that lets you check off or on will not let you put a check mark next to "on" after you push the "OK" button to get out of the check message. There is nothing coating the bumper/sensors (mud or anything).
2. Blinkers - sometimes, out of the blue, my left turn signal comes on and it doesn't like to go off. I have to push the blinker wand down to the second full position then back, or repeat if it comes back on. It is almost always the left blinker. It also happens sometimes when I start the truck.
3. Windshield wipers - sometimes if I go from the remote start to key power in the morning I get the windshield wipers going. So I will turn them on with the dial and back off. This is pretty rare.
4. The Ford emblems are starting to corrode.
5. I might have them look at the cruse control - sometimes I can get the light to come on the dash and go to green when I push the + button, but it doesn't hold the speed. I have to shut the truck off and restart all the electronics for it to start working again.
How to check the back up sensors? My gut tells me with the rest of the issues that unless they can repeat and verify my "complaints" they won't be able to do anything. There probably isn't a code thrown for the blinkers going on at will. Is there anything I might be able to do to fix it? Or do these issues require parts being replaced - which we're back to square 1 with being able to verify what it's doing at the dealer?
View 7 Replies
I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
View 14 Replies
I just bought a 01 f250 and started to hear/feel thia ticking/rattling noise. I have read a couple forums on the matter but I'm not really sure on what to replace ?
[URL].....
View 14 Replies
So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
View 8 Replies
I bought and installed the remote start last weekend, cut the keys and programmed them. all thats left is to activate. i have access to a snapon modif computer, can activate it with this or something similar, or does the dealer HAVE to do it?
View 3 Replies
What option level has remote start as standard?
Or is it an add on option?
View 5 Replies
When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
View 4 Replies
Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
View 9 Replies
I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
View 5 Replies
Had a lot of snow in the North East last week. Tried to use the remote start three times without any luck. Cleaned off the windshield and it worked. At best the remote is a weak system with very little range. How to use it or make it work better?
View 12 Replies
2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
View 14 Replies
It would be nice if you could have the rear seat heaters come on with the remote start, but only when you knew you would want them on. Like tonight 5 of us are going out and it will be hours and in the 20's when we get back to the truck. Where I park in the lot is at the limit of the remote start so it is farther than I want to walk to manually turn them on (plus doesn't that defeat the purpose of remote start.)
I was hoping that if they were powered on when I shut the truck down, they may come on at restart but nope. I tried a few combos of truck running on remote, and with the key. Is there a secret way by chance?
View 2 Replies
How to remove the rear bumper, I have to drill some holes to install some back up sensors. I rather not but I don't know if anything is behind there.
View 1 Replies
I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
View 14 Replies
Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
View 14 Replies
I'm getting ready to install the SCT X4 tuner on my ford F250 6.0 diesel should I pull any fuses before connecting the tuner
View 5 Replies
Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
View 8 Replies
I finally received all the parts needed for installing my fuel pressure gauge, but I am wondering if I am going to need a schrader valve on my fuel pressure line going to the sending unit, or if I am going to be safe with just doing a 6 time cycle of the fuel pump like we do when we change out the fuel filters. Seems like that should work for getting the air out of the fuel lines, same concept I would think.
View 14 Replies
Anyways, I've been doing a lot of work on my 6.0 2004 Ford Excursion lately, and recently installed my Sinister Diesel intercooler pipes and intake elbow, and had to remove my throttle body completely to do so. I know that the 2004 models throw codes when removed, and that's what I'm here for. Mine isn't dogged down and actually runs even smoother with my new piping and intake, but I want to get rid of this code.
Is there any tune out there that can erase it? For some reason my Edge Insight CTS2 sees the code, but my SCT X4 flash tuner doesn't see the P0488 code. I know people have discussed this topic several times, but after hours of reading through posts I never found any solution to this. All I need is a way to delete the code because I don't like having my CTS2 with a trouble code for something I did on purpose!
View 6 Replies
I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
View 5 Replies
