Okay, so i was driving down the road. Turned around and all of sudden I have no power steering... The fluid is good and I actually just replaced this ps pump 2 months ago.. Also when I hit the brakes they kinda feel weird too like there not working fully or something... Should I just start tearing this ps pump off?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
Last week I took my first long drive since taking in my truck for its 24000km service. Also first real drive on my new toyo m/t 275/70/18 ( same size as stock michelins )
About 1 hour into the drive, My exhaust regened, then slightly after I hit ( not held ) the ok button and it reset my trip. Which was strange as you need to hold it down to reset. But the bar just kept going. Then suddenly I went from 12.8 l /100 to 19 l / 100. Or converted it about 18-19 mpg to 14. After stopping and resetting the truck, it resumed 12.8 at 110 kmph.
Then today coming back on a 4-hour drive doing anywhere from 100 - 130 kmph ( 60 - 80 mph ) I could not get it to move off 13.8 l / 100 km. more then + or - .3
Is a 6 mpg difference normal for adding mudders? Or is my truck glitching or plugged somewhere.
Started with lots of black smoke all of a sudden. Not under any significant load at that time. Reached destination (barely) and started the search. Have taken off blue connectors on CAC passenger side. Top is marginal but see no holes. Pulled the MAP hose and see nothing unusual. Have not checked the driver side CAC or the BPV sensor. Have a ScanII device that shows no codes. Got my other scanner and it too shows no codes.
Had it towed home over 100 miles 'cause now it just barely runs. Idles fine but have a engine noise change (deep and hollow) every once and a while at idle. EGR leak? Doesn't blow black smoke anymore. More of a white/blue. Exhaust smells odd. Absolutely no turbo activity. When shutting hear no whine down of the turbo. No boost evident on the dash or on the scan II. I am at a loss at this point. Will check fittings again.
Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
My truck is an 03 and I changed number 5 injector and number 4 injector, checked my ficm everything is good there now I have a contribution balance code for injector 4 now injector 5 and an EGR code some guys on hear before said it could be a sensor but today I talked to my mail man who also owns a 6.0 and he sounds pretty knowledgeable he says it's possible that it could be that the computer is not reading out right and those cylinders are getting to much fuel for an instant that's what's causing the sudden puffs of black smoke. My torque pro is giving me all these codes and I'm starting to think that there is something underlying....
View 10 RepliesI have not been on here for a while my X has never had any problems 140,000+ miles. yesterday went out side to start her and let it warm up went back inside to make coffee came out 10 minutes later and found a server oil leak pouring out under the truck. Immediately turned her off popped the hood and found oil all over the back top of the motor? before I start tearing into it, need to know where to start. I've read IPC sensor, CAC hose, anything else to look for?
View 7 RepliesI have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears ... Need on whole new rear....
View 14 RepliesSo my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
View 14 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
View 6 RepliesWhen replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
View 14 RepliesAfter my recent cooling system upgrade and power steering pump/HP hose replacement I am still hearing and feeling the power steering whine. I flushed the fluid and used Mercon V ATF fluid. I jacked the front end up with tires off the ground and cycled the steering lock to lock 100 times or more now and the whine does not stop. Do I need to put a vacuum on the system and try to purge it that way? There was no whine before but I just replaced the pump while I had room with everything out of the way and replaced the high pressure line because the fitting was leaking at the pump. This is very irritating because I thought replacing the pump would be beneficial.
View 2 RepliesI am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
View 14 RepliesMy power steering pump was making a loud whining sound. No problem, changed the pump. Now after the truck is started I will have no power steering or brake assist, give the truck a little gas and you can hear the power steering pump "start". I have tried every way to get the air out, or is that not the problem. I even lifted the front of the truck off the ground with a forklift and with the truck off turned the wheel about six times stop to stop. Fluid level looks good and has since adding after the change.
View 4 RepliesI just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.