Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Heat Only A/C
Sep 16, 2015
I'm getting ready for the change in weather and noticed that I don't have any heat. A/C blows cold as a blizzard but its cold even when I have it all the way in the heat.
View 2 RepliesI'm getting ready for the change in weather and noticed that I don't have any heat. A/C blows cold as a blizzard but its cold even when I have it all the way in the heat.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Excursion Limited with a 6.0 PSD. Recently I have noticed my temp, I have a Scan Gauge II, slowly climbing when I am idling. On the highway it runs anywhere from 175-205 depending on time of year and load I'm pulling. Lately I have noticed it starting to climb while sitting in a parking lot at idle after coming off a steady speed run. Temp goes from about 175 up to about 205 just at idle. It is a slow creep up not a dramatic change. I have checked my coolant levels and it is full. I have made sure the front of the radiator is clear.
View 8 Repliestoday me and the wife where riding around doing some things before the snow storm. we went to the store and the heat was great but when we came out cranked the truck and all of a sudden no heat at all would just blow cold air. im not trying to go to a dealer and get charged an arm and a leg so where do i start.
View 14 RepliesOk so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
View 14 RepliesHaving issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesHow to figure out what caused my rear seats to lose heat?
No heat, no illumination on the buttons
Fuse looks good
Went today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
View 8 RepliesI'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
My 2006 6.0 has recently started to heat up very quickly after i start it, after about 10 minutes of highway driving my ECT and EOT warnings are going off on my Edge CS programmer and reading 220F (both) and higher. My A/C also only blows out cold air if I am driving around, at an idle it just blows out warm air at me. Average summer temps at home of ~25C. What could be causing this?
2006 F250 6.0
165,000 km
Egr delete
Aftermarket Headgaskets and studs
Edge CS programmer
K&N Cold Air Intake
There are two bosses on back of hpop cover that have bolts holding heat shroud for the exhaust. How difficult are these to remove? The drivers side looks fairly accessible, but passenger side I am not too sure of. I will be back to disassembling everything in a couple of days, and just getting a heads up on it.
View 5 RepliesThis is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
View 12 RepliesI just finished the replacement of my injector cups and I replaced every hose on that engine and when i replaced the heater hoses I believe I hooked them up right but just want to make sure. Is there an IN and and OUT on the heater core or does it not matter???? Im only asking simply because my legs feel like their on fire. Im wondering if the hot coolant is flowing through with out demanding it. I havent drove the truck in a while so Im questioning everything.
View 2 RepliesStarted today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesIt only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
I've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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