I am having a charging system issue. The alternator is making barley over 12 volts. With KOEO the battery light on the instrument cluster does not come on. I have already replaced both batteries and the alternator -before i noticed the battery light is not coming on.
View 2 RepliesMy 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
OK getting these 2 codes PO113 and PO4DA What now have 17,000 miles and a long weekend. Truck has no power barley moves. Can't get it to a dealer till tuesday.
View 1 RepliesAnother thread on here about Time for Batteries got me to thinking about mine and whether I should change them based upon time.
They have been in the truck 4 years and 6 months or so. I was reading some older threads recommending changing around the 3 year mark to prevent damage to the FICM.
I don't drive the truck everyday and sometimes it sits for 3 weeks or so. I noticed 2 days ago when I took it to work, I got one of the slowest cranks I've ever gotten. But after it's started and the glow plugs turn off, I get ~ 14.1 - 13.4 or so volts.
FICM voltage never drops below 47 and usually runs between 47.5 and 48.5 volts.
I'm not sure what size alternator is on there. Plus it's a single. I also have the upgraded cables that Mr. Jack recommended for extra battery life. I guess it's time for batteries though?
I never tested a ficm before and just want to make sure before getting it repaired. I had 48.5 volts with the key on and while cranking went to 49.6 volts. While holding it on for a second time it went to 30 volts and jumping around while cranking and then to 49.5 and the truck started and it was at 48.5. One other thing is my injectors are chattering when the key is on but not all the time. (not sure if this is normal). If the ficm is bad and someone recommend a ficm repair shop. This truck is non stop with repairs I need to start working on it myself.
View 6 Replies03 f350 srw. Today and a few times in the last couple weeks when sitting at a light with truck in gear it has surged a little bit. Not hard enough to make me push the brake pedal harder but noticeable climb and then fall of a couple hundred rpms. I remember hearing or reading of somebody else with the same issue and it ended up being a bad ICP. Checked it koeo when I got home and it was at .35 volts(scan gauge II). I don't recall the right number but that seems higher then what I remember it should be. What else other then pulling the plug and checking for oil should I be looking at? I replaced #5 and #6 injectors about a month ago, and everything seems to be good with that. I don't think the two are related but I'm no expert.
View 5 RepliesTruck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while I was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurrence of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected. Went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like I am trying to start it in park.....been here for about 3 hrs now I've checked fuses nothing is blown. I am just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line....... Its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty
View 14 RepliesFor about 5 years now I've had an idle that seems to "hunt". It is minimal, but I've gotten to the point that it bothers me now. The tach barely moves, so it's more about what I hear than what I see. What it could be? It's a 2003 with around 150,000 miles.
View 11 RepliesIf I had to charge the batteries, Do you charge only the primary battery or do you charge both?
View 4 RepliesOK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
After 2yrs and 1mo, my DC power 270XP amp died. I put the almost 10 yr old factory alt back on and everything is good again, except for the glaring fact that I have a dead alternator. It is a month beyond warranty (of course).
Truck has been running great. Oil cooler, EGR bulletproof cooler, STC done in Dec at Ford due to high deltas. I have a small stereo - one 12" sub woofer, otherwise nothing that really stresses the electrical system. I did the "big three" with 1/0 copper - cost a fortune, saw no difference - but that could have been an issue for the alt.
I left a message today with etch support but did not get a call back. I hope they make good on this - I waited almost 4 mo's to get this thing and it was supposed to outlast my truck.
i just had my 190amp DC Power Alternator just died. It was about 4 yrs old. I ordered a new Bosh AL7606 I know it's 140amp but it was half the price and in stock on amazon also lifetime warranty. I'm thinking of moving the pulley from the DC Power to the Bosh. Any thoughts? I went to the DCPower website but they were sold out and twice the price. I might just get the DC Revuilt as a spare?
View 14 RepliesIdiot light was on for battery charging issues. Sanded all ground connections. Soldered battery cable connections. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new alternator. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new interstate batteries. Brought old alternator to be rebuilt, rebuilder said it was strong as could be, needed no work, high output alternator. Reinstalled old high output alternator. Scan gauge now shows charge output of 13.9 V to 14.1 V
Idiot light still on, flickers like a loose connection, sometimes lights constantly.Occasionally speedometer fluctuates wildly, when fluctuating like this at idle, the truck will stall, so far it restarts...so far. When it has stalled the speedometer still fluctuates wildly for a few seconds truck will restart and seem fines but this will play out again next day or so. Occasionally ABS light comes on, occasionally water in fuel light comes on and they go away after abit, some times after a restart, not always though
Thought it might be cam positon sensor however not certain with the instrument lights also acting as they do. Have had one cam position sensor open circuit code once, about to trip out west to Monatana & Colorado and back home to Ma in a couple of weeks, hoping not to be stranded somewhere in between those places!
I have a 2003 F350 6.0. I had a flickering Battery lt on the dash last week so I replaced the Alternator. People recommended I upgrade to the 2005 140 amp alt from my stock 110. I have a single alt system. So I did, today it died on way to work. Batteries were drained. Had new alt checked and its fine. So All I have is a wiring diagram from 99-2002 but it shows the plug on the alt with 2 wires, Lt grn/red from switched ign and Org/Lt Blu which goes to batteries. Org/Lt blu has 12v but Lt green/Red has nothing with ign sw on. I did check fuse 45 in Central J box and have power there. I did notice I have no battery Lt on dash when you turn Ign sw on, and never got the Lt this morning when it died. What Im confused about is do I have a PCM? my diagrams that only go up to 2002 model show it for a 2 alt sys but not for a single alt. I should have power on Lt Grn/red with ign sw on correct? Everyone said 2005 alt was plug and play, the elec connector is now pointed down, where it was pointed up on the orig alt, look to be wired the same.
View 7 RepliesI just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
View 11 Replies2005 F-350 6L
Just changed my alternator, that was the easy part apparently...............
Cant get fan belt back on? My pulleys don't look the same as the picture under the hood. I can see a idler on passengers side down low, but cant seem to make it move to give me some slack.
What kind of tool to use on idler to get slack?
I ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.
After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.
I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that worked massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.
So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!
And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.
We've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
View 4 RepliesSo I have been having this little issue for a few weeks now. I will be driving along and out of nowhere my batt light will come on and my gauge cluster,radio and windows stop working and the ficim volts jump to 15.5-16.5. This is an intermittent issue. Yesterday I put my multi meter on the alternator and I am reading 13.5 or so this number was done at idle and the batt light was NOT on .
View 14 Replies