Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: New Injectors - Now Truck Takes Almost Two Seconds Of Cranking To Start Engine
Apr 21, 2016
I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
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I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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I was going to an appointment today and was going about 35 MPH and the truck just kinda sounded like all 8 injectors went into spaz mode for about 1-2 seconds. Initially I looked at the oil pressure thinking the oil pump went out. The engine/idiot light came on during the event and went off. But did not stall out in traffic. I was right in Green Bay Ugg that would have sucked.
I was a few minutes early and plugged in my Superchips reader to see what light code was there and it was a 1211. I have two questions for everyone.
1) Should I disconnect the ICP and check for oil, if so replace?
2) What hypothetically happened?
I now have a slight miss like a injector or something is not happy in one hole.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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Had long start issues. Would turn over for 5 seconds - shut off- turn over for 5 seconds - shut off - third try on 4-5 seconds the low oil pressure would come up and HOP would fire injectors and start up.
Was not sure what was up, so look it to Ford. They did leak down test and found seal at the top of injector 4 was leaking. Replaced it and leak moved to other injector. Basically moving to the next weakest seal point. I told them to stop as i did not want to pay, parts, labour and shop time to replace all injectors, etc. They also said power across all injectors was good, but 3 & 7 were not contributing on cold start.
I drove it home and bought parts. New cups and seal for all 8 on fuel rail. New gasket kits for injectors. Plus 2 new injectors to replace 3 and 7.
Replaced injectors in 3 & 7 with the 2 remanufactured i bought. Replaced all cups and seals on fuel rails. So it has new injectors in 3, 4 & 7.
As for the other injectors i took the 5 of them right apart and cleaned them and re-assembled. Took about an hour per injector, took my time to get it right, just FYI. Went pretty good i thought. Seemed pretty straight forward actually.
Now no start - no high oil pressure at all. LOP comes up right away. Scanner shows no HOP no matter how long i crank it.
FICM power good, 47.5 - 48
shows FICM sync - YES
IPR sits at 14% and jumps to 84% on crank - starting, see photos below.
Scanner prior to crank
Scan during crank
Note zero IPC - PSI
Right now.... Got the valve cover off on passenger side. Cannot see oil squirting out the sides of any injectors, but line of sight is limited. Maybe need a small mirror to see in there. LOP comes up better than it has in years, but no HOP now. Before rebuild it seemed i had good HOP but low LOP.
I drove it home from Ford and into my garage, so i do not believe the HPOP crapped out sitting in the garage, so i am ruling that out as a fail, at this time.
Dummy plugs were replaced 5 years ago and o-rings looked decent.
Pulled the small plug screw at the top of the fuel rail. Cranked it until oil came out, bleeding air. then replaced the screw plug. Have not done that on drivers sideyet. Will try that tomorrow. However, think this is more than an air issue, as i have cranked it over plenty, unless i just have that much air.
Going to pull the valve cover on the Driver's side tomorrow. Then will have both covers off at same time to view all.
Noted that if i put compressed air into the screw hole on top of the fuel rail, i can hear air coming out from below the fuel rail. Nothing at the base or around injectors. Does not seem to be at the cups either.
Just wondering.... Buy applying air to those screw plug holes, is that the same as doing the air test at the sensor that pokes up through the valve cover.
With air pressure at these scew plugs on the fuel rail, should this be sealed and be air tight and hear no air leakage. Because it was not air tight on the drivers side before i closed that side up. I am curious about this.
I am assuming i still have a HOP leak. I do not think i have a failed HPOP. How to better chase a HOP leak?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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I have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
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Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
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