Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Motor Turning Over 5 Seconds Before Starting
Jul 7, 2017
First off I'm new to the 6.0 powerstroke that being said, I bought a 07 f350 with 102k miles in VERY good condition and I'm planning on doing the bullet proof on it. But my question is that when I start the truck it will turn over about 5 seconds before it starts up. I've even cycled the glow plugs twice with no difference. If I shut it off after it's warm and start it right back up it'll still turn over for about 3 seconds.
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After I shut off my truck, about 5 to 10 seconds later it sounds like a compressor or small motor is running, and it runs for about a 50 to 60 seconds. It seems to do this even if i turn the ket on and off, sometimes. What this is.
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2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
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I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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I have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
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My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
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Truck is bucking and missing every 10 seconds or so and will stall when taking off in drive sometimes but fires right back up? I got a lot of codes in the torque pro app but some are in grey. Not sure what that means. EGR has been deleted so that's why I got those codes. I was cleaning the back of the truck the other day and found a can of quick start . Guess that might be why i got codes for glow plugs also. I'm gonna post up pic of my codes and numbers of truck running at idle in drive. So far I see I got a code for cylinder 6 contribution? It's in grey tho whatever that means.
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This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
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This after 20 seconds of idle. I can see it squirting but can't see where it comes from?
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Popped the hood after smelling fuel and it was dripping about every 30 seconds. Before I order parts can you steer me in what it might be. Was going to do blue spring mod soon but is there more?
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My truck will only stay cranked a few seconds then dies, I have a lot of codes popping up! I was told may be the FICM.
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13 qts Rotella 15-40 & ford filter. I filled the filter with 1 qt before installation.
Now I have a lower motor tap, taptap or chick, chickchick. Is the oil too thick on a new motor, 5,000 miles.
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Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
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just got a new to me 05 f250 with the 6.0. Truck has 152k its super clean. I think there is an odd noise. That occurs every 20-40 seconds. This is my first diesel. There is no check engine light. No loss of power. No stutter.
But, there is a bump sound behind the firewall on the drivers side. And a felt bump on the throttle pedal. At first I thought it was a sub woofer behind the firewall, not really, just the feeling of the sound and vibration. Since there is no check light on I'm concerned as to what this could be if it's not a normal diesel sound/vibration.
There is no correlation with throttle position(occurs at idle and pedal depressed) RPM (I feathered the throttle attempting to elicit the sound no result). bumps in the road (bump stop,steering nothing wrong there). Does seem in the afternoon it's more prevalent. I drive about 20mi to work and around 5mi through out the day. The sound occurs approximately every 20-40 seconds.
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I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
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Strange thing happened yesterday and again today. I have my compressor hooked up to up fitter #3 ,turned it on yesterday to fill the tank back up to 120psi. Before it filled up i shut the truck off to fuel up..but the compressor kept running for a few seconds after the truck was off. and today doing some running around the compressor turned on out of the blue when i was driving..but the switch was off.
The shut off switch (on the compressor itself) turns it on at around 90psi and shuts off at 120, but the thing filled my tank to 180 before i noticed it was on, pulled over to shut the truck off and again it ran for 10-15 seconds after the truck was off. I'm pretty confused. maybe it has something to do with the build up of snow under the truck, we just got 16" two days ago. but still when the up fitter is off shouldn't that cut the power from the accessory hooked up to it?
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
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Well hear I am again fix one problem now I got another problem last time it was fuel now it's oil so what I got going on is a oil leak that looks like it's coming from on top the motor on the back I first discovered this nice surprise when I went into the store and came back out and seen two 8 inch round puddles of oil laying on both sides of the motor like I said at the back I thought rear main seal but upon further inspection it's coming from somewhere on top and rolling down both sides of the motor looks like near the turbo what could this be possibly a line or a check valve or seal or o ring on the turbo? Is there a common thing to go bad on these trucks to cause a leak in that area?
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Nothing to be alarmed about, I'm just letting y'all know I have a coolant leak on the front of the motor. It leaks about 8oz. Of fluid/week.
I have been through the radiator issues, 5 in all on my '08 and 1 on my '11 at 52,000 miles. This one is different, I'm pretty sure it's the water pump.
I'll give the official word as soon as I can get it diagnosed. I guess it's because I tow all the time, nothing real heavy, just everyday use. Truck is hardly ever on its own.
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