Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: MBRP Muffler Is Too Loud - Droning At Certain RPM
Aug 29, 2015
I know some of you can't get your truck loud enough and like to scare children and want everyone to look, but I like comfort and quiet. I'd prefer the stock exhaust and I may find one if I can't get mine quieted down but first I'd like to see if I can. The 4" MBRP exhaust was on the truck when I bought it. The thing was straight piped and I added the 30" muffler. Worked immensely but it's still too loud in the cab and there's droning at certain rpm.
Not a big deal on short drives but we use the truck for hauling and towing on long trips and that's when it becomes annoying. It looks like there's enough room for another muffler to easily fit (CC SB). Or I've thought about removing the MBRP muffler completely and putting on one of those crazy long Donaldson mufflers. Think a 2nd muffler would do much at all? Or get one long muffler?
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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First there was a loud pop as if a hose came off and a power loss - don't seem to see any hose disconnected. Happened to me once and seemed to return to normal and then happened to my son. Have not driven since the last time. Both times pulling a boat.
Second issue has been going on since I got the truck - bought used apprx. a year ago - believe it to be stock. The time from pushing accelerator until actual kick in is very elongated - sometimes worse than others but very long on the worst side. Usually noticed when needing to pass on the highway. Once kicked in truck runs well.
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My power steering pump was making a loud whining sound. No problem, changed the pump. Now after the truck is started I will have no power steering or brake assist, give the truck a little gas and you can hear the power steering pump "start". I have tried every way to get the air out, or is that not the problem. I even lifted the front of the truck off the ground with a forklift and with the truck off turned the wheel about six times stop to stop. Fluid level looks good and has since adding after the change.
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I have a 4 inch MBRP turbo back straight pipe and I hear a lot of other 6.0 that sound much louder.
just curious as to why that may be?
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So I took the wife to the pumpkin farm today, and was we were pulling into the grass/mud parking lot, my tires just started spinning. I stopped because I wasn't going anywhere and I turned my truck to go into 4x4(SOTF) and it made this LOUD clunk and then went into 4x4. Everything is ok and I tried it 4-5 after that to see if it would keep making that noise and it did not.
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The code was P040 which said is for the EGR system so I removed the EGR valve. It was completely plugged in the top section. I cleaned it out and cleaned out the ends of the EGR coolers then vacuumed the port out and reinstalled the valve and removed battery cables for 2 minutes to remove old check engine light codes . I drove it for 50 miles and it runs fine now and the check engine light did not come on. It still has a loud ticking noise behind the glove box which I read can be the blend door relay so I will try to pinpoint exactly what is making the noise as soon as I figure out how to get the glove box door off.
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My squeal is only present at my tail pipe at rear of truck its a 2007 f350 straight pipe . 6.0 engine. 300'000 miles . just bought this truck . believe turbo has been replaced but not sure as to when. This noise is very loud ear splitting at an idle. Builds boost just fine. No noise at turbo area other than the normal slight whine.
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So I was turning into my neighborhood tonite, when I got a really loud thud and a major hesitation in the engine. Fortunately I was in my neighborhood and could basically coast to my house.
No CEL came on and I don't seem to have any leakage (only thing dripping underneath was condensation from a/c I believe). Obviously too late for service tonite, so have tow scheduled for 7am. What could have happened? The no CEL has me confused. I was able to restart it and it seems to idle fine, but give it has and it hesitates.
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How do you diagnose a bad fan clutch? When driving in tow/haul mode I get a noise like a jet engine. It starts going down grade or upgrade and does not stop after leveling out. I have switched off tow/haul and it is still there. Over on the Diesel Stop site I found a couple of guys who have had the same problem. Concern is everything I have read there are no codes thrown. Have not taken to my local Ford Dealer to see what they say.
Driving a 2011 F-250, August 2010 build date with 76,500 miles. Problem started about 6 weeks ago when pulling an 8000 lb travel trailer in the White Mountains of NH.
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Just noticed a sound of air sucking sound under the hood on heavy acceleration only, the harder I push the louder it gets. Either sucking or hissing sound. I feel no difference in driving. No loss of power or anything else. Just the sound of air coming out like a leaking air line. I will check later this afternoon if its affecting my turbo boost. I have 235000 klms on the clock
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Every time my air compressor would shut off I got a loud annoying pop through the radio. Even if the radio was off I would still get the pop. I knew it couldn't be good for all the electronics in the truck so I tried a mod.
Diodes across the relay signal terminals need to be installed in performance carts to protect the electronics. I put one of these diodes on my truck this week. 100% of the pop is gone.
I used this one : ACC-KIT-CSD-1
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So I have a 06 f350 6.0 and this started to happen yesterday. I was driving and all my temp gauges were ok says the tuner, but I noticed when I accelerated and went above 8psi the noise got significantly louder and wouldn't go above 17psi so the cause of this sound is making lose pressure somewhere.
- I check the hot side of the inner cooler pipe and boots for cracks or tears(nothing)
- I checked the cold side and the plastic seems to be in good shape except where the flex part meets the inner cooler had some little cracks in it
- I check the Intake for cracks, didn't see any.
Noise is still there and the loss of power.....so I'm at a loss!
Cold side pipe where I taped it
Hot side boot to inner cooler no tears
No cracks in hot side pipe
Hot side on turbo
Cold side of the inner cooler
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38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
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heard a loud squealing noise and now no boost. 2011 with 90k miles
whats my options and what would it cost.
1. replace with factory turbo
2. replace with upgraded turbo and tune?
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Have a 2004 F250 crew cab with the notorious 6.0L.. ive noticed what i believe is my tranny or maybe torque converter.? What happens is when i back out the drive way and the go into drive, i hear and feel a rough loud clink down under even when im at a stop sign.. I am a first time truck and diesel owner due to my field of work. Also it has a rought time starting in the mornings or anytime the truck is completely cold. Then after it warms up it behaves like it should. also ill get on the throttle and when i come to a stop, the idle is rough and slowly comes back to normal. ...???
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I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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We bought our 2010 RX last December--dead of winter--and never noticed this until this week, when the temps are approaching summer, like upper 80s.
The AC (and heater) fan makes a loud droning noise (low frequency, but quite loud) when the "auto" setting turns the fan to one of the two highest settings to cool the car down. Never noticed this until now because the fan never ran at the higher settings in the winter (parked in a heated garage). It makes no difference which vent setting is used, the loud drone from the fan is the same as long as it is running at the higher speeds.
Also, I'm NOT talking about the fans in the seats. This is the big fan behind the dash. Manually decreasing the fan speed reduces the drone, which becomes almost inaudible at lower fan speeds.
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