Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Low Toned Squeal Out Of Left Front Hub
Dec 15, 2015
Well I'm am getting a low toned squeal out of the left front of my truck every time I pull away in the morning. I thought it was the caliper sticking as it wasn't releasing but I replaced the brakes and that and it still is happening. I guess I am going to looking at the hub and see if the hearing is bad. What do you all recommend for a hub replacement. (OEM, moog?) I looked it up on white bear is part # AC3Z-1104-B right?
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Started about a month ago with a very infrequent squeaking coming from area of front left wheel. Has started getting more and more frequent to the point of being constant for about 10 minutes today, then just went away for the remaining 15 miles home. Front left hub was definitely warmer than the other one but not too hot to touch or anything. Start of a bearing issue or something to do with the auto locking hubs for the 4wd???
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My fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
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My squeal is only present at my tail pipe at rear of truck its a 2007 f350 straight pipe . 6.0 engine. 300'000 miles . just bought this truck . believe turbo has been replaced but not sure as to when. This noise is very loud ear splitting at an idle. Builds boost just fine. No noise at turbo area other than the normal slight whine.
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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Experiencing a squeal under hard acceleration at 3000 rpm with roughly 20lbs of boost, not present before and not present after 3000 rpm. light acceleration to 3000 rpm does not create sound, as well as turning 20lbs at a lower rpm (higher gear with throttle input). Truck has an EGR delete, EGR delete up pipe. EGR valve is still in place and plugged in. Truck did come with a banks six gun, so does not have EGR delete tune, however no trouble codes are present. What to check?
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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Are they known to cause any noise? VGT Solenoid.
I have recently developed a slight whistle/squeal when boosting and when letting off on the pedal. I initially thought I had a CAC boot starting to split out, but since it's making the noise when I let off as well I doubt that the problem.
It isn't constant, and only does it for a second or two when it happens. It's not extremely loud, just loud enough to make you wonder what the heck it is...
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06 6.0L 205k
EGR, cat, and muffler delete
IPR replaced roughly 10k miles ago
New oil cooler roughly 15k ago
Replaced turbo Y up pipe 15k ago
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, and serp belt roughly 50k ago
I've got a strange squeal sound coming from under the hood only when truck is cold? It sounds like a bearing and after it gets heated up the sound stops. I talked with a guy thats a cummins guy and he said he had a similar issue and he had to replace the bearing in the turbo? Also when truck is warm it will still do it, like for instance, if I run in a store and truck idles for 5-10 mins it will do it only if I romp on it for a short while like 2-3 mins then again goes away. And if I'm idling or in neutral, hot/cold, it does not do it, it seems to be only under a load. Pull a 26 foot boat no problems.
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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My Excursion has proved to be a reliable winter vehicle, as was the intention. A few weeks back, at 116,000 miles, the right front wheel bearing started to squeal around left turns. Not very loud, so I didn't think it was all that bad, just an indication it was going. I jacked up the front of the truck anyway for good measure, and found a tremendous amount of slop in the bearing. Yeah, the bearing had disintegrated. Time for a replacement.
I bought a new replacement hub off of eBay, and proceeded to start tearing into the thing. Should be an easy repair... Right.
The repair itself is actually straightforward, but I had a few little snags get in my way. The one I'm facing now is that the new hub did not come with replacement studs, and the old hub's studs will not come out. Yes, I tried using a torch (and failed). I got one removed, only to find it's a fine thread and possibly Metric. Either way, it's not something that they have at Lowes.
Where to get more of these, or what the size is so I can order some from McMaster?
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So I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do? They are also pulsing a little.
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Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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Can I re-use this shaft or is that ring around it no good. The ring is around where the bearing sits. It is a circumferential hump all the way around.
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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Does the 2015 F350 have the dead pedal on the left drivers side? The one they used to put in to rest your foot on?
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Attempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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