Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Low Compression Results - Slight Brown Haze On Cylinders
Feb 28, 2016
While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
It's at 65k miles, was sitting around for half a year with a previous owner. Started with hpo issue that I seem to have resolved with new ipr. I'm also doing injector seals, nipple cups and dummy plugs in the meantime to seal off the system.
I had ran a compression test with a 300psi gauge on a couple cylinders as I was changing glow plugs and harness, and they showed above 350 psi. A couple others showed barely 150, so I figured I blew up the gauge. That's when I went and bought a harbor freight diesel gauge and while I was waiting for the otc adapter whip to come in I took apart the oil rail and was getting ready to do injector seals and nipple cups.
I have now tested all the cylinders with the proper gauge but only to get the same dreadful result low compression ranging from 150-200 and rising 50 only with a bit of oil added to the cylinder.
If I don't have compression I'm obviously not going to get it to start although everything else showed up good on the torque gauges before it was apart. Why I don't have compression on any cylinders? I'm getting a new compression gauge today just in case, but seems unlikely it's the gauge.
View 14 Replies
2000 f450, truck has been running great and then all of a sudden starts running really rough. I check the oil and its dry! it was 9 quarts low! i checked the oil 2 weeks prior as i often do. i change the oil every 4500 miles and now this. i had driver side injectors done about 5 months ago. I take it to my mechanic and he said he thinks it has low compression on 2 cylinders but didn't do a compression check( not sure how he knows). He told me to run it until it pukes , keep putting oil in it with lucas oil additive. Then i will have to have the engine rebuilt. The truck only has 175000 miles! i thought these things were supposed to run forever! Does this seem right to you guys? I bought the truck a year and a half ago and have always kept up with it. has dp tuner but everything else is stock. Smoke comes out of the oil fill tube slowly but doesn't send puffs like a locomotive. mechanic said the turbo is fine.
View 14 Replies
This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
View 14 Replies
Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
View 7 Replies
I bought an 06 6.0 f 350 4x4 dump bed cheap. seller said it was sitting for 1-2 years and wouldn't start. ficm is at 48 volts fuel pressure is at 100 oil pressure builds fine, then checked compression and reading no compression in any cylinder. My mechanic says new motor or possibly both head gaskets are blown.
View 14 Replies
Started having some crank no starts intermittently. Scanned and found codes for cam sensor. so I was in a pinch and a hurry on a sunday so I picked up a BWD brand cam sensor from parts store and installed. I have not seen this issue since but started noticing other thing going on. I noticed a few weeks ago my truck was starting a little strange. as it would spin over before firing off, it didn't sound right. I couldn't pinpoint if it was due to slightly low compression on one cylinder or one cylinder had a little fuel or oil in it and that one cylinder was actually firing while cranking over.
I also was noticing a little longer crank times than normal. didn't matter if engine was cold or hot. sometimes would fire up quick and sometimes it took a few seconds. most of the time I couldn't catch it on my scanegauge if the ICP was low due to the lag on the scangauge.
Well one day on my way home from work (50 miles one way) I stopped about half way to fuel up. after filling up and attempted to restart the truck it really acted like it didn't want to start but did after cranking for about at least 10 seconds and started rough. and of corse my scangauge decied to hate me this day because it would show any data until I unplugged it and plugged it back in. so started home. felt like it had a very very light miss on the way home. when I slowed down to turn onto my road the truck died. took forever to get it to start back up. this time the scangauge was reading and I could see ICP was between 300-400 and IPR was 85%. so low pressure and not reaching the 600 needed to fire. once it started I limped it home. scaned it with my Auto Enginuity and it didn't show any codes.
So that much I can see I have a leak on the HPO system. but I done a lot of work to the truck about 2-3 years ago. roughly 80k-100k miles since the work. what I done included...
OEM oil cooler
OEM (updated)dummy plugs, standpipes & STC fitting
OEM head gaskets and ARP studs
BPD EGR cooler (I should have deleted)
ALL other engine gaskets(Bed plate, oilpan, front&rear cover, ect.)
OEM glow plugs and harness
OEM blue spring upgrade
Cleaned turbo veins
2 OEM REMAN injectors. (cant remember which two) had contribution codes one on each side.
This is all I can remember right now. Now have yall seen the updated dummy plugs and standpipes leak? I have not pulled valve covers to air test the HPO system yet.(don't have my air compressor at my new house yet). Here is what I have done so far:
Fully charged batteries.
I did do a bubble test. pulled upper fuel filter cover off and removed filter topped the bowl off and turned engine over using the wire by the passenger side battery. some bubbles but not a bubble bath.
Checked fuel pressure (not running) its 60psi. did not start truck because I need a different fitting so I can run the truck and check pressure while running.
while doing the bubble test I could hear that one cylinder is low on compression. but I do not have any misfire or contribution codes.
when I ran contribution test on AE its not showing any particular cylinder lower than the rest. but the line is not very solid at all.
Here is what I plan to do.
Compression test on each cylinder.
Looking at the Harbor freight kit. Looks like it has fittings for glow plug and injector holes.
If I can do compression test on both glow plug and injector holes this should show weather my injector orings are the cause of the low compression.
Then I have to airtest the HPO system and find the leak.
Am I on the right track? what else should I check? Guess I should add that the truck currently has 297K miles.
View 9 Replies
2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
View 9 Replies
2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
View 4 Replies
I have a 04 6.0 and lost with it. I parked it the other night and in the morning I went to start it and it acts like it's only running on half the cylinders. I haven't had any issues till now so I replaced fuel filters and air cleaner is fresh but no change. It is not throwing a check engine light it isn't smoking excessively. I don't know where to check next.
View 5 Replies
I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
View 14 Replies
So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
View 8 Replies
I've been fighting some issues with the truck and decided to do a compression test to decide if I want to try to keep 'Old Yeller' alive or not. I'm all for working on it until I have to dig into the lower end of the motor. I rented a compression tool and the results were a little shocking. I did this test with a slightly warm motor, fuel pump relay pulled, all spark plugs pulled and throttle @ 100 %. Motor turned over 10 times for each cylinder. I even moved all the rubber o-rings on the tool up on the threads to make sure I was getting a good seal.
Cyl 1 - 40
Cyl 2 - 0
Cyl 3 - 0
Cyl 4 - 80
Cyl 5 - 0
Cyl 6 - 60
Needless to say I didn't even bother doing this wet. My only real question is can this be close to accurate. I drive the truck daily. 160k mi on it.
I'm fighting the dreadful P0171 and P0174 codes and after a couple cycles I will get misfire codes. Its low on power (hard to keep @ 70MPH with some wind) and gets 10MPG right now. However it starts and runs and stays consistent (even though it rumbles like it has a nice cam in it).
Is it time to put Old Yeller down ? Are these compression results even remotely accurate ?
View 5 Replies
My mechanic just told me I have one of my six cylinders that has a compression rate of only 25. I am weeping as I continue to pay my car loan. Looking for info, if this can be repaired vs. putting in a replacement engine?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 Replies
My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
View 8 Replies
Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
View 2 Replies
I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
View 13 Replies
i bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
View 14 Replies
So I recently had the head gaskets done at Ford. All is good but there is a slight drip from the blue EGR hose. It made a 3" circle on the driveway after 8 days. Coolant level is still fine. I really don't feel like dropping it back at Ford. Think I can just twist the hose to tighten it a bit or is a new hose in order? It is only 2 yrs old and was not replaced with the head gasket work.
View 10 Replies
