Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Loud High Pitch Squeal At Idle
Jul 9, 2016
Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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So I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
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My squeal is only present at my tail pipe at rear of truck its a 2007 f350 straight pipe . 6.0 engine. 300'000 miles . just bought this truck . believe turbo has been replaced but not sure as to when. This noise is very loud ear splitting at an idle. Builds boost just fine. No noise at turbo area other than the normal slight whine.
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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2002 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder Manuel Drive, whenever you push on the accelerator makes a high pitch squeal. Changed Idler pulley and belt, No luck.
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The T/O bearing makes a high pitch squeal until you put light pressure on clutch then it will go away. Does this thing have a preload on bearing at all times or should there be free play like in the old days??
Another thing that has me wondering is when I push clutch all the way in it actually puts a load on the engine. Having T/O bearing so bad it puts a load on the engine?
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I have a 2011 F-350 Diesel. It started making a strange whining sound when I start it in the morning. Very random and only does it when it's 0- -4 c. Took it to the dealership and they said its the cooler fan clutch. Got it replaced yesterday, and this morning I started it up and the whining sound was back. It also had a weird vibrating sound. What it could be?
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So today pulling out of the gas station I turned my steering wheel to the left and I heard a high pitch squeal from the drivers side. It wouldn't do it again unless I was just creeping, nothing going down the road. I did a few searches on here but they all are if the truck is moving say 30 mph or better. I know I need to replace my ball joints. 99 F250, V10, 4X4, extended cab.
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Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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Yesterday I heard a high-pitch noise/squeal coming from the vehicle and after some searching, figured out it was from the ventilation fan. It went away after 5 mins of being on but is rather annoying. Not too keen to take it in as I'm sure the dashboard will need to be removed and afraid it won't go back in perfectly.
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Just replaced pads, rotors, caliper hardware, e-brake shoes and hardware and rear wheel bearing assembly on 2006 Santa Fe. Still get a high pitch sound after the car warms up in 5-10 miles. Sound is intermittent and gets somewhat louder as you drive.
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2002 Passat wagon. I recently had my independent VW shop install new front and rear brake pads and rotors that I provided. The pads are PBR Axis Deluxe ceramic pads. Soon after, the front brakes started a high pitch squeal - mostly when cold or wet.
I took it back to the mechanic and he told me there is nothing he can do about it - I must have defective pads and that maybe they are covered under warranty, as they certainly need to be replaced, ...
This shocked me, especially the lack of customer service, but because I provided the pads I don't think I have much leverage with them other than not to do business with them again.
Is there any way to quiet a squeaking brake pad? Might the mechanic not done something he should have done to prevent squeaks?
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I noticed a rough idle after driving an hour with a 6000 lb trailer and stopped at an offramp. Had no performance issues to that point in an hour drive. Then I noticed a good amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The idle felt just like when I had a contribution/balance code on #5 a year ago, and a new injector fixed that. Before long (10-20 minutes later) the idle got real loud, like a big knock/loud tick every revolution.
I had a bunch of stored codes, so I reset them and later found a P0281 - Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance and P0404 - EGR control circuit range/performance were the 2 that came back. I drove it 2 more hours to get home. It ran well under load, but coasting or stopped gave the loud knock, and stopped and idling was a rough, inconsistent idle. It even stalled on me 3 times when braking for a red light (auto trans). There was a lot of white smoke all the time, plus a little dark smoke on acceleration.
What would you recommend for troubleshooting steps? I could put a new injector in #7 and clean the EGR valve, but want to have a good idea that will fix it first. Is there a good chance I have a messed up piston in #7 now?
Codes I cleared:
P0148 Fuel delivery error
P0234 turbo overboost (i know i need to pull and clean the turbo anyway, unrelated to today's issue)
P0281 Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance
P0404 EGR control circuit range/performance
P0670 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
P0683 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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Anytime I run the RPM passed 2300-2500 I get this high frequency squeal. I don't seam to lose any performance, but very annoying. Is this the turbo having troubles. It's directly related to the RPM'S. Other that that, the truck runs great....
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