Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Cranking Time When Sitting For Over 5 Hours
Jan 27, 2017
2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
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My Corolla sometimes cranks longer than it should when starting. This happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours. Although it doesn't always happen.
It happens when the tank is full and empty. The weather has ranged from 100 down to 60 degrees. The car has 20k miles on it and has had regular dealer servicing. What's going on with it? Otherwise it runs fine
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I had to drop my fuel tank and as a result, I replaced the fuel lines from the underbed filter to the tank. After replacing everything, I purged, purged, and purged some more. With much difficulty I was able to get the truck running and it ran good. But, I have trouble restarting the truck anytime I let it sit for a couple of hours. It cranks and cranks and eventually fires, but with much difficulty.
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Some information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover
Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..
Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles
Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.
I found the following codes:
P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528
I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.
Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.
So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?
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So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
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How long does it take to fire up the engine?Just got mine running today and I'm new to 6.0. It took about 4 seconds the first time, and considering this was a used engine I figured that was very fast to fire up. However, subsequent starts which I had expected to be less cranking are also taking about 3-4 seconds. I haven't had any experience with an oil actuated injection so maybe this is typical for the design?
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I have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
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I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
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Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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I have a 2002 celica after sitting for a hour or so car has very long crank....
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
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I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
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Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
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I think I'm going to buy a late 99 CCLB six speed manual truck that's probably been sitting all of a year, maybe longer. Prior to being parked the truck ran flawless. 6 months after parking it he decided to sell it and when driving it, it has a miss when its cold and blows a little white smoke when accelerating. Appears to clear off and run normal after its warm. So he decided to investigate it and re-o-ringed the injectors and checked other things out.
He's determined he thinks it has a weak hpop. Not sure I'm sold on this. Fast forward six months and now I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it. Drove it yesterday and same thing, first 4 or 5 miles kinda studders or misses but after that runs smooth and has no issue. No longer blows white smoke at all or anything. Obviously the fuel is old as hell, other than that what is everyone's thoughts?
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I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor. I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck there are injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when Cold but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go with a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went.
I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went. So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal.
The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips.
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I am an inspector and my truck is my office. I have my printer, computer and phone booster running off my 110v all day. Having issues with the 6.7 idling for hours?
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I got a 6.0 in 2006 tow truck happens to be after using the truck for 2 to 3 hours the truck stalls out while driving can seem to figure this problem out , I change
ICP
FUEL PUMP
FUEL FILTERS
INJECTORS 1-3-5-7
Can't seem to figure it out...
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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