Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Light Coolant Smell During Hard Acceleration?
May 4, 2015
My delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
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I've been smelling coolant for a few weeks with no apparent leak. Walk out today, small puddle under truck. Coolant running/drip along seam of engine and trans right in front of downpipe on passenger side. Even with a mirror I can't see up far enough. Looking from top is impossible. What could be leaking up there? Turbo?
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Always regretted selling my 1988 ford diesel. It was a stick shift 4x regs cab. Very fun to drive. But I was a kid so when it developed a tranny noise I panicked and sold it. So, I bought a pile of crap in the form of a 2004 super dooty. It's a long bed ex cab, but had a stick shift!
It's got 330k on the clock, spicer rear end, and the famed 6.0. It's 4x4.. The truck isn't running and has a laundry list of engine issues including coolant blowing out under acceleration, hpop failing, weak injectors, oil leaks.
Compression is claimed to be good, but I'm thinking it would be easier and cheaper to fix up a used engine and swap it in. I'm open to other engines too, so I'd love to hear about options for that.
My research indicates that the 6.0 can be made to work well. For the money I have into the truck there is some room to invest in the engine. I have a line on a lo mile used 2006 6.0 engine. I've been told that the later years like 06 were less prone to some of the issues. Would this engine require head studs/gaskets and hpop fixes?
I'd be doing an egr delete for sure. And a coolant filter setup which is a new concept to me. What else would need to be done to bolster this engine? Turbos okay in these? I saw my friends ford burn to the ground from a cracked turbo. Or, should I put a gas engine in?
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I just took my new (to me) 2012 F350 out for it's first real tow job; pulled our 9,500lb travel trailer up and over the Sierra Nevada Mountains for a week long camping trip.
Under load, I started to smell a burning metal/paint smell in the cab, to the extent that I was wondering if something was wrong. All of the gauges were fine, and there was no unusual smell under the hood.
My wife discovered the floor on the passenger side was hot to touch (directly above the exhaust), and it actually started to melt a few plastic items in her purse.
I did just have the EGR valve replaced after it threw a code; not sure if there's some coating on the new one that could be burning off.
Isit normal for the floorboard to be that hot when working thes trucks?
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I'm getting a p0087 on a hard acceleration new low pressure pump new fuel filters run the pinpoint test in the pced is fine and passes the high pressure test with the ids? Not sure where to go from here?
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Why I am smelling coolant? I have a 2004 6.0 SD.It generally happens when accelerating up to freeway speeds or passing cars, Medium to hard acceleration and the smell is strong and will go away after a few min. The obvious thing is to check for a leak but I haven’t seen any.
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Experiencing a squeal under hard acceleration at 3000 rpm with roughly 20lbs of boost, not present before and not present after 3000 rpm. light acceleration to 3000 rpm does not create sound, as well as turning 20lbs at a lower rpm (higher gear with throttle input). Truck has an EGR delete, EGR delete up pipe. EGR valve is still in place and plugged in. Truck did come with a banks six gun, so does not have EGR delete tune, however no trouble codes are present. What to check?
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I recently purchased a 2011 F350 chassis cab with no bed installed. Have a few questions regarding the exhaust system. When I inspected and drove it noticed some black smoke when under hard acceleration, nothing major though. Other that that the truck drove great. Have not got the truck home yet, a friend is going to pick it up and deliver it in a few days. Based on the visible smoke I was suspicious of the exhaust system but I have no knowledge of what the system is suppose to look like. My experience with diesels and for that matter gas engines is mostly from the days of mechanical fuel injected diesels (70's era farm tractors mostly) and carberated gas engines.
My friend stopped by a local Ford dealer and crawled around under a new 2015 Chassis cab to look and compare to this 2011. It appears that the SCR and DPF are not installed on this truck. Where they would normally be is a section of pipe with a section about 2 feet long that is 6 or 8 inches in diameter. Looking at some threads on this site I'm guessing this is a muffler that has been added since the truck is not loud. There is no DEF tank and all the wiring for sensors that would be attached to the exhaust system appear to be tied off to the frame and not connected to anything. The dealer didn't know the history beyond he purchased it on an auto auction and he installed a new rear end in it. Car Fax shows nothing of concern.
My question is should I now be concerned since have determined much of the exhaust system has been removed? I've read some threads and it appears that the only way this can be done and have the engine run well without any codes etc is if the removal is done with some sort of tune. Is there any way to determine who has done the tune? Will it be an issue when take to a Ford dealer for service?
I know if wanted to put the system back to stock would be large dollars, as long as the system runs well and is reliable I will be happy. The anticipated use of the truck will be to pull gooseneck trailer and will probably not see more than 1000 miles a year towing and 5 to 10k total in a year. I drive with a very light foot seldom ever pressing any vehicle to its limits. If still have the truck in 10 years when retire or at least cut back on my work then it may see more miles.
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When the engine is working hard and the head (s) unseat, where does the coolant go, in the oil, to the atmosphere or both?
There are times when I am pulling heavy ( 18 to 20K+) pulling up a hill from a stop, and I can hear the engine working hard, then I later check the coolant level and it has drop.
Where did it go?
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Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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For a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
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I'm getting some light surging while under acceleration. None at idle or once in overdrive. I cleaned out by exhaust back pressure although it wasn't really that dirty. Thinking about replacing the sensor anyway but it is a little pricy to just buy for no reason. Should I look for anything else? And where I'd the best place to get one? I've seen the 20 amazon ones or over 100 at the parts store.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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One of the great things I liked about the new 6.7L engine was the lack of any diesel smell. While the tips of the exhaust pipes remain clean at 64,000+ miles, no soot, my truck now has a strong smell of diesel after each use. The truck is running strong but I can't figure out why this is happening.
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no change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
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I have an exhaust smell in the cab of the truck. It is pretty strong. Seems worse when it is really cold outside and goes away when outside temps warm up. I checked the tube (passenger side behind engine) and did not see any soot.
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