I'm getting some light surging while under acceleration. None at idle or once in overdrive. I cleaned out by exhaust back pressure although it wasn't really that dirty. Thinking about replacing the sensor anyway but it is a little pricy to just buy for no reason. Should I look for anything else? And where I'd the best place to get one? I've seen the 20 amazon ones or over 100 at the parts store.
View 1 RepliesJust replace the b solenoid in my transmission last night; everything running good now, but for some reason it started doing this weird thing where if I come to a complete stop at a red light, then ease into the throttle, it will start surging,bucking. If I give it a little more gas on the pedal it will smooth out though. It only does it if u ease into the throttle after a complete or near complete stop. What's going on?
View 7 RepliesMy 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
View 5 RepliesMy delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
View 8 RepliesI was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
I have a 6.7 diesel extcab longbed 4wd with the 3.31 rearend. I have been experiencing a surge primarily told by the boost gauge when using the cruise control unloaded and either or both going up a steady climb in elevation or headwind. It does not surge if I shift down to 5th. Does not occur pulling a load. Still occurs in manual mode and tow-haul mode. Does not occur if your controlling throttle with your foot. I find that it happens at speed of 65-70. It will boost to about 10 pounds then fall to about 3 and will continue this until maybe a hill or change in direction. It does not occur with a tail wind. I took it to the dealer today and ford had a new flash for the pcm and the tcm. Hoping that this would fix it but I don't believe it did.
View 14 RepliesAny input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
View 2 RepliesI replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and the readings on my sct programmer didn't change at all so I don't want to keep blindly throwing money at it if one of you has experienced this and found a cure. The interesting thing is it never throws a code or check engine light or anything according to my sct. Doesn't even show that the egr valve is unplugged. I have read that it could be a bad turbo, vgt solenoid, icp, throttle positioning sensor, or a couple other things.
It feels like I'm the front car in a bump draft in cup racing when I'm at a steady speed. The truck has arp head studs, new style egr cooler with the tubes, coolant filtration, new oil cooler, new ficm, blue spring, all filters have been changed in the last month.
2004 powerstroke surge/ rapid idle - YouTube ...
I have a 2007 f350 6.0, just replaced the oil pressure sensor in January, now, my truck is surging like crazy! I heard it could be the ICP sensor, how easy is this to change? And where do I find it if this is the problem!
View 1 RepliesLast night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
View 11 RepliesI was wondering about same turbo problems that I'm having? When running in cruze only at 55-60mph the turbo will surge from 2-12 psi up and down repeatedly. It sometimes will level out for a couple seconds and then continues to do it. I had it to the dealer and the service manager drove it and said it seems like it's searching for something, but since there was nothing from ford about it he couldn't do anything about it. There was an update for a prior serial number but my truck has the current software. What kind of damage is this going to do. It sucks because alot of my driving is at this speed.
View 14 RepliesJust bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
View 14 RepliesA few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
A few weeks ago i had a surging idle issue very intermittently, and it went away for a while so i stopped thinking about it. Just got back from a weekend in vermont, about 130 miles each way, and i noticed as soon as i got to vermont and came to a stop sign it was surging, and when i just got home it was surging again. Why would this have picked back up after long stretches of running for a while? Runs great as far as i know, just have this surging idle for some reason.
View 14 RepliesSo any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
Ok I have a 2004 f250 6.0L, has 104k on it. A little back story... truck was running well when I started to get surging on takeoff and it was blowing black smoke when it surged. After it hit 1600 rpm it would blow out and run normal. So did some research and found it could be the FCIM, I have the 4 pin and tested it and had 48.5v so it tested good. Did some more research and found symptoms leading towards the ICP so I replaced that and the ICR also.
Upon doing this my surging issue cleared up but now I'm getting a miss around 1200 + rpm weather it's in park Reving it or driving, but it is not throwing any codes, I did check with my code reader. I have also changed both fuel filters and have the EBP sensor on order as I hear they can be troublesome. My question is what should I do next or look at? I was trying to avoid the dealer so I can learn more about the truck in diagnosis.
I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
I have a '01 7.3 Excursion 2WD. 220,000 miles. It has a 4" exhaust, K&N filter and Edge Reprogrammer set on emission illegal. It gets the best fuel economy and moves out very well for 8000 lbs. Recently, I started to feel a surge while making light throttle acceleration. For example, round a corner at 35 and try to gently resume the 45 Speed limit. It begins to accelerate and then cuts out or surges, sometimes several times. If I lay into it, it responds fine. I have serviced the air filter, the fuel filter, use synthetic Amsoil. I did notice a slight improvement after the service. Less frequent cutting out or surging. I also was in an area where Bio diesel is readily available. I added almost a full tank of B10 Bio and it seemed to work. Changed the fuel filter just after.
It has been cold for NC. This morning it was +14 when I started the truck. It seemed to finally catch on maybe 2 cylinders with lots o' white/ blue smoke. It cleared out in a few minutes and seemed to be hitting on all 8, or at least 7. Once it warmed up, it's fine. But I had the codes p0672, p0674, p0676, p0678. My question is: Is there a common thread in the fact that it appears that I lost 4 glow plugs on the same bank?
One arm chair quarter back's response to the surging, is that the under valve cover injector wiring harness may be breaking down, especially since the truck has 220,000 and the valve covers have never been off. I have a fresh turbo with the good wheel sitting ready. I have just been too lazy to swap it out. Would a fresh set of injectors be a wise choice, when I swap over?
So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
View 10 RepliesI have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.