I have noticed a leak coming from the hydro boost piston that goes through the fire wall on the drivers side of my F250 King Ranch 6.0L... Here's the question, does the entire booster need to be replaced or is there an o-ring or a seal that can be replaced in the existing unit. I notice the fluid leaking on the piston just inside the firewall and it drips onto my floor mat.
View 9 RepliesHaving this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
View 5 RepliesSo recently i blew a seal in my steering gear box. I replaced the unit with a reman and per napa put in power steering fluid. I am pretty sure i was supposed to use atf (my dumb fault for not researching that) so now my question is whats the correct way to flush the system? Also what fluid should go back in the system? This is a non hydro boost setup. Setup is a 2002 f350 v10.
View 1 RepliesI just looked back and it has been since July 7th that my girl has been sitting in my shop. Well this past weekend I finally got her back together and started. It took a while to build pressure but she finally came to life..
While I am thrilled that she is running again i have low power before the boost kicks in and is idling rough with a blueish- white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Once i kick her a little she will get up and go but I've never had the smoke before.
I'm thinking maybe a bad injector???
How my rings burnt up on one cylinder causing damage to my cylinder wall. My question is this. What could have caused this? I pulled the motor and tore it down. Cylinder wall is chewed up a bit so I was going to have the machine shop sleeve it. Is there another component that I should look at while it's apart? Also the corresponding freeze plug on the same cylinder was showing signs of leaking. I'm thinking that is related to the extreme heat that cylinder experienced.
View 12 RepliesWell hear I am again fix one problem now I got another problem last time it was fuel now it's oil so what I got going on is a oil leak that looks like it's coming from on top the motor on the back I first discovered this nice surprise when I went into the store and came back out and seen two 8 inch round puddles of oil laying on both sides of the motor like I said at the back I thought rear main seal but upon further inspection it's coming from somewhere on top and rolling down both sides of the motor looks like near the turbo what could this be possibly a line or a check valve or seal or o ring on the turbo? Is there a common thing to go bad on these trucks to cause a leak in that area?
View 13 RepliesI have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
View 7 RepliesI have an air leak sound coming from I believe the driver side. Sounds like an air line from a compressor leaking. Could see anything obvious last night or hear well over engine. When driving it's pushing more air. Nothing looked/felt loose. Didn't find any air blowing were I could stick my hand in a hot engine. Doesn't seem to have performance issue, maybe a little more turbo delay.
View 3 RepliesI noticed I was a bit low on coolant and started looking around. Found a drip on the serpentine belt and harmonic dampener. The T-stat is dry and was replaced 1.5 yrs ago with a full flush. Both hoses are fine and there is no coolant near the steering assembly.
I am figuring it is coming from the water pump. I am planning to put in that Bulletproof water pump and Mishimoto silicon hoses. Anything else I should consider before I dive in. I'll put a new T-stat on since the coolant is drained and it is cheap $20 insurance. BTW hoses and water pump are original (7/05 build date).
Additional information - no spots on driveway (from coolant anyway) and single drop on the dampener. No mess anywhere else and I am down about 1/2 gallon - degas is almost empty.
I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
I just purchased a used f250 6.0L a week after having it i noticed a small oil leak slowly got worse (looked as if it was coming from the too rear of the engine) then noticed about a half quart of oil under my truck. While driving it home the oil pressure gauge kept dropping then going back to normal then eventually dropping for good. The truck still ran so i drove it to take it to the mechanic but then the throttle began to become unresponsive and then gain power again then finally the truck shut off and wouldn't start again, blowing oil all over the inside of the hood and top of the engine. I checked it and noticed the pressure sensor pigtail were fraid so i replaced that along with the sensor and added oil but still wont start.
View 10 RepliesI have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
After fixing my fuel pressure regulator leak, I found the fuel soaked track bar bushing coming apart.
The whole thing is available, but do the bushings are available? I've seen some poly kits for the '04 and older but nothing for the newer trucks. It's not a budget breaker either way, but it seem silly to throw away the giant bar because the bushing is shot.
If these will fit? 99-04 F250 Track Bar Bushings Red....
I recently purchased my 2011 F250 Powerstroke a week ago today with 87000 miles on it. the dealer assured me they did all the maintenance on the truck before i was able to drive it home. I noticed on my dash that it kept popping up i needed to change oil soon.. so i got out to investigate and realized i was about a quart low on oil so i looked around more and am seeing that i have a leak coming from the back of the engine running down to the oil pan.. I have not noticed any on on the ground at all but what this leak is coming from...
View 14 RepliesI have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
View 10 RepliesWhile servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
I have a small coolant leak coming from the passenger side near the back of the engine that forms a spot about the size of a dinner plate if it sits for a few days.
One thing I noticed is if I turn off the AC selector switch when I park I will get the drip but if I leave the switch on MAX AC when I shut the truck off I do not get any leaking.
It is definitely coolant and not just the condensation from use of the AC. If I haven't used the truck for a few days or if I have run it with the AC off I will get the drips.
If I run with the AC on and leave the switch in the on position when I shut the truck off it won't leak. I have tried to locate it from looking above and below but can't determine where it is coming from.