Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Jingling Noise From Grille Area
Apr 20, 2015
After towing my jeep 4 hours round trip for an offroading day, I noticed a jingling/rattling noise from my grille area. It is less audible from above (hood open), to my surprise. Everything works fine still, including the fan kicking on while pulling a hill as expected.
The only related thing I can think of is that I changed my belt before this trip because the old one squealed when it accelerated the fan and when it held full speed (2000+rpm fan speed). The new gatorback belt did not squeal at all. Could I have hurt the tensioner by pulling the belt too hard to remove it? I used the method of pulling the belt up on the passenger side of the alternator to get it off, and to put the new one on.
I notice the belt tensioner moves a bit at probably 20-30 hz, kinda dancing around. I don't know if it did that before.
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So my 2010 with 20k miles on it just started to have some jingling/chirping noises around the drive belt area. It isn't all that loud but i can hear it. Could this be just a simple loose belt? Are our belts auto adjusting or manually adjusted? The noise increases with engine rpm in all gears and in neutral. Is def coming from the belt area.
One pulley does seem like it is not perfectly round and I can see some very slight run out from side to side. Nothing really obvious though - that might be normal?
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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I have a f350 6.7l powerstroke diesel. It has been shaking real bad sometimes to the point of going only 15-20mph. And sometimes while it shakes it makes a rattling noise in engine area. The weird thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. We have noticed it mostly when gas gets low.
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I have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
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Crew cab, have easy access to the under rear seat storage area to grab a few quick measurement? I need to know the entire length (side to side) and width at the widest points as well as depth.
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Didn't think anything of it but i have noticed a few times this week when i start the truck after it's to temp, shut down for an hour, the restart I hear coolant gurgling in the dash area? Was very noticeable this evening. Still no overheating and heat blows nice and hot. Still getting the blows warm to a certain temp, then cold to a certain temp, then hot once to temp then will stay hot until fully cold soaked. Think my tstat is not acting right?
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I've just finished a marathon replacing the y-pipe, and doing the IPR screen. I had many seized/stripped bolts to contend with. 2 I had to cut off in the most awkward places.. Anyways, it all came together and completed the project late tonight...
Befoer even starting the truck I noticed coolant dripping from passenger side manifold/block heater area.. I obviously must have damaged something in my reefing on turbo to get it lined up with exhaust pipes, etc...
I cannot see the source of the leak, but it seems wet above the block heater, but pools there then drips.. I'm curious where to look. Could I have damaged the EGR cooler and its coming from there? At the manifold joint closest to the back, is there coolant flowing there? I am pretty frustrated, because after going through a day like to day, ripping my arms to shreds, straining for 12 hours straight, then having yet another issue to figure out...
Also this is as best as I could get the y-pipe to meet the turbo... slight gap at bottom.
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I have a 2004 Ex, 6.0 PSD, 4x4. I am experiencing a fuel leak after first startup. Fuel drips off both side of engine area but not coming from the top of the engine, valley is dry. Truck runs great, no hesitation or buffeting as if it was leaking from the intake area. After about 10 min of running leak stops but there is some occasional drips from residue.
This all started after I installed the IPR remote coil cooler and Gen 3 EGR delete. I thought I was smelling an exhaust leak but didn't realize it was actually fuel until just a few days ago when the leak became really bad for about 10 min, leaks about a cup of fuel. I have added a UV due to the tank to see if that will show the leak.
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Started about a month ago with a very infrequent squeaking coming from area of front left wheel. Has started getting more and more frequent to the point of being constant for about 10 minutes today, then just went away for the remaining 15 miles home. Front left hub was definitely warmer than the other one but not too hot to touch or anything. Start of a bearing issue or something to do with the auto locking hubs for the 4wd???
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I have a 2011 F-350 CCSB 4x4 w/ 20" Wheels and the electronic locker. I have had for some time a noise when I go over small bumps (pulling into garage up a 1" lip) at slow speeds. It sounds/feels like side to side movement. I have traced this down to what sounds like looseness inside the rear differential. To recreate, I lay down and shove hard on the spare tire. This pushes the truck side to side. I can hear a clank/clunk at both wheels around the brake area.
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I blocked off the hpop discharge tube to test for leaks, shop air. I am plugged into the oil rail drivers side, and keep getting a slight popping sound. The first time I did this it took ten minutes to start, so I replaced the top injector seals. The second time it did this after about four minutes, so I took the oil rail to the local shop and they did the ball tube orings in the rail, now I went to put it back on and it does it almost right away.
Am I just pushing the oil out of the injectors? is this normal or should I have NO air noise period? I guess I am not sure how these injectors work, where does the oil go after it enters the top of the injector? It seems like it's coming more from the top coil area, more so perhaps than under the oil rail.
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Drove my truck for the first time in a few months and there was a noticeable ticking coming from the passenger side glovebox area when the HVAC is running. I cycled between AC and fresh air and the sound persisted. What it could be?
Took a quick video on my phone, you'll have to turn up the audio to hear the ticking : 2011 F350 HVAC ticking - YouTube ....
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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My friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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My Platinum has 23000 miles now and is a little over a year old. Lots of small problems so far but Ford too care of everything on warranty.
Now I discovered 2 small bubbles on the grille and so not like that. Also the rear defrost does not turn on. Neither by pushing the button on the console or the touch screen one. It does not activate - no indicator turns on nor does it defrost.
For once a week at least I got a grinding noise/vibration from the front power train. Ford can't find any issues and it never does it when they test drive.
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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Turn ignition nooise, to get rid of the annoying buzzer. So I would like to do the same on my 2011 f250?
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Just noticed a loud squealing sound coming from the engine area before I start the truck, but with the key in the on position. I'll try to get a video the next time it happens. I assume it's something starting/warming up, but it's louder than anything I've ever noticed. It lasts probably 20 seconds.
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