My ford f250 i have a intermittent knocking sound when i turn the ac/ heater? it is not all the time and can never tell when it is going to happen. i always think the worse like it is a cylinder or something.
View 9 Repliesit's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
View 9 RepliesSo I am owning my first diesel so I am still getting use to it. Shortly after I bought it, I had to make my 900 mile drive to work and it ran great. After being here for a week or so I noticed heavy white smoke bit thought it had to do with the -5- -10. And haven't seen the white smoke since the weather warmed up. Since then I have noticed a "knocking" sound that to me sounded like a rod that I didn't notice before. After reading through these forums, it sounds like I probably have a cracked injector. I have had no engine light or anything. So my question is, can an injector fail or be cracked without an engine light and can a code reader detect which one it is with no light on?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2014 Superduty with 41000 km on it. I was driving in a remote area yesterday about 53 km from pavement. I stopped for a break and had a very noticeable knocking sound that was more noticeable on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. I had no choice but to keep driving it. the truck ran perfectly fine for the 4 hour trip home(1 hour on gravel and 3 hours on highway) when I stopped a couple of times after that there was definitely no knocking sound an it is not there today, what this could have been? like I said the knocking was so noticeable that you couldn't miss it...
View 11 RepliesSo was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesNot sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
View 14 RepliesHad a large puddle of coolant under my '05 X this afternoon after work. Seems it's leaking from the Y connection coming off the heater water control valve. See first pic.
I think it's part number 18472 (labeled with the circled 1) on left side in pic #2. Need to confirm this is the right part and the full part number?
Lastly, how the heck do you change this hose? It's tucked up under the cowl and looks like difficult.
Was driving today and noticed that at idle my heated air went away. Coolant temp at this point was 185f. Once back to driving, the heat returned. The variant in temperature seems to be related directly to engine speed. What is wrong?
View 7 RepliesI have tried the dealership 3 times and have not been able to get the rear heater to work properly. When the vehicle is moving I have heat but if I slow or stop the heat goes away. I believe it only happens to the rear heater as front feels fine.
View 4 Replies1st Ford was an '08 to '10 model F250 6.4L that had an engine fire on I-82 towards Ellensburg in the passing lane.
2nd Ford was a 2005 F-250 6.0L at Vantage, he had black smoke coming out of the exhaust and a terrible engine knock, and was pulling a 32 ft TT. When I went to go talk to him, he had no idea what a ScanGauge was or anything about the truck.
When I looked at the engine bay with him I saw the EGR valve had been deleted with a block off plate and not plugged into the fan hanging on the side anywhere, he had the high rise aftermarket oil cap installed, ALL the metal/aluminum parts had bad oxidization. He had no gauges whatsoever.
Then to top it off, he said he was going to try and make it to Ellensburg while pulling his trailer. I told him he had a 4% grade for 10 miles in front of him to climb, and the another 35 miles after that on flat ground. All I could feel was, "is there any hope for this guy"?
Anyways, my question is, without any gauges, what would be some good educated guesses with the black smoke and knock? I am mostly just curious what this guys issue might of been with his truck since seeing the symptoms first hand.
My thoughts are the oil cooler leaking, and making the injector(s) stick open.
Of course now that I think of it, there's probably too many scenarios to mention.
When ever I first turn the key on to power everything up I hear a loud knocking noise which sounds like it is coming from the heater but goes away after 5 sec or less. Truck in question is 2010 f150 screw xlt with a 4.6
View 4 RepliesOk I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
Have 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
View 2 RepliesI didn't have time to trouble shoot but heres my problem. I plugged my 2016 6.7L in last night and when I checked it this morning the block was still ice cold. I didn't have time to investigate but i did make sure i had power up to the truck. And i noticed there's a connector just after the truck plug as well.
View 14 RepliesDoes the block heater come with some kind of a cord? I found the Box Link stuff under the back seat finally, the dealer said the block heater should be under there too? But it aint there?
View 6 RepliesBeen having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
View 14 RepliesMy IPR value on torque pro koeo is at 14.7. Is that normal? Usually idles around 23.7-24 but when I experience a slight rough idle IPR will be 26-27. When I was under the truck last week I did see there's been oil leaking somewhere seems leaving evidence on the drivers side rear of bellhousing. Any relation?
View 14 Replies