Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
Trying to troubleshoot a very intermittent (has happened on two different occasions during the last 1,000 miles) hesitation from a stop-light. I've been recording engine parameters (Torque application) on both instances as these have been during longer trips after a period of highway driving. 2004 Excursion, 112K miles.
This feels kind of like severe turbo hesitation (4 to 10 seconds trying to start out before it kicks in) but I don't think that's it. The turbo is a new PowerMax turbo replaced 5 months ago. VGT readings seem pretty normal. The EGR valve is new -- the first instance was with the old and the second was with the new. I've also recently replaced the EGR and Oil coolers (before this).
Here's what's interesting in the captured data though... Normally when I coast into a stop-light the indicated engine load stabilizes at about 40-50% and VGT moves to about 65% to 70% at idle. The two different times this happened (actually multiple times at stop-signs/light close to each other over 5 minutes or so for both of these), when I have coasted to the stop, the engine load increases from low values during coast-down (0% during freeway coast-down or 19-30% during other coast) up to 99.6% (or other similar high values) at idle and VGT seems to be full closed at 85%.
There is absolutely no response to the throttle in this situation for 5-10 seconds. I've either been goosing the throttle a bit or putting it neutral and revving it up first to get things going again. When it finally catches and starts accelerating with power, indicated engine load drops to 50-60% again and VGT opens up to 40-60% or so. None of the other parameters I've been capturing seem to read strangely during this that I recognize. No issues observed during cruise and power seems good. No pending DTCs or engine light.
Here's what the data points I'm capturing (once each second):
Boost
Calibration Input Volts
ECT
EOT
Fan RPM
FICM main volts
Fuel Injector pulse width
ICP
ICP Volts
IPR Duty cycle
RPM
Engine Load
MAP
Trans Temp
VGT Duty Cycle
EBP
EGR Commanded
EGR Error
Added today but not captured during these issues yet:
IAT
IAT2
Baro
Accel Pedal Position
Mass Airflow Rate
Mass Fuel Desired
My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
View 1 RepliesI charged the batteries fully, new alternator put in and checked grounds. Light was off, but while driving to work it came back on again and stays on. Battery voltage is 14.2 on each at idle and 13.4 while engine and key off. Maybe the two prong connector needs to be replaced?
View 10 RepliesRunning down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
View 14 RepliesI have 51k on my 2014 Platinum F-350 and the little red battery light come on. I take it in and they tell me that it is going to be a little over $1,300.00 to replace my alternator. I have had the truck since May 30, 2014 and the alternator has gone bad. I am regretting trading in my 1999 F-350 with over 365 k on it. Never had an electrical problem besides replacing the batteries every 4 years or so. Is this a common problem on these new trucks?
View 14 RepliesMy battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
View 12 RepliesChanged alternator yesterday, batteries 2 weeks ago, was having trouble with alternator, now it takes 2 to 3 minutes of running to start charging normal but after driving 3 to 5 miles battery light comes on, hooked up volt meter and shows charge of 14.0 to 14. 4 volts and battery light is on, why ?
View 3 RepliesBattery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
View 14 RepliesOk my battery light came on, for awhile now, pulled the code and its P0625. I have all the info and tests for this code, sum I cant do because I dont have a live data or scanner capable. The fusible link is from the batt+ circuit(SDC14) red wire from three pin connector(C1104A) on alt to or from the mega fuse on passenger side by battery. It says in the schematic that there's a fusible link in between and with it been a fun job the way it is, trying to even get at these wire bundles plus to try and open them up is a nightmare.
View 7 RepliesI have a 06 F250 6.0 My battery light has been coming on. Doesn't stay on but I'm planning a trip back east and don't want any issues to occur. I was thinking maybe the batteries. So I stopped at the local Oreilly's Auto store and had them tested. Told the guy what it was doing and he said it sounded like the alternator. He tested it and said it was going bad. He also tested the batteries and said they were good. So I went looking for a replacement alternator and they have different amp sizes. So I'm not sure on what size the original one is and if the replacement should be a bigger size amp wise.
View 11 RepliesI just replaced my batteries today on my 2011 F250 because of a no start situation. I guess it was about due since they were original and that gives me 5 + years of service and it happened in my driveway so I definitely am not complaining. However after I replaced them and started the truck the check eng lite came on....
View 8 Repliesam in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
View 14 RepliesWe've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
View 4 RepliesMy Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
So I have been having this little issue for a few weeks now. I will be driving along and out of nowhere my batt light will come on and my gauge cluster,radio and windows stop working and the ficim volts jump to 15.5-16.5. This is an intermittent issue. Yesterday I put my multi meter on the alternator and I am reading 13.5 or so this number was done at idle and the batt light was NOT on .
View 14 RepliesLast week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
View 4 RepliesOk I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.