Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Intermittent AC / Cuts Off After Some Time
Apr 25, 2017
I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
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I have a 2013 that randomly stutters or cuts out for a second while accelerating. This happens whether I am slowly accelerating or full throttle. This used to happen once every few months but it is happening more frequently now. It will randomly happen while trying to accelerate on the freeway. The truck feels like it stalls, then takes off. It feels like it loses boost pressure so maybe a wastegate issue or possibly an EGR valve issue. No codes are set.
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I have a plow truck that over heats and cuts off. And when it cuts off it won't start till next day? I know the plow has to be low this is not my first plow truck.
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Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
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Lately (within the last year) after about an hour in the truck my radio will make an electrical pop sounding noise and then the sound cuts out for about one second. The pop is not very loud. It will do this about every 15 seconds at first and then after ten or so minutes it's every 1-3 minutes. Doesn't matter the source, it does it on all of them. The volume is at normal (adult ) listening volumes. Interestingly the subwoofer does NOT cut out which points me towards the amp inside the radio. It also seems as if heat may be part of the issue as it takes a while before it happens. If I turn the radio off and wait 15 minutes and then turn it back on it will work for a few minutes and then start popping.
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Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
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I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
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Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
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My IPR value on torque pro koeo is at 14.7. Is that normal? Usually idles around 23.7-24 but when I experience a slight rough idle IPR will be 26-27. When I was under the truck last week I did see there's been oil leaking somewhere seems leaving evidence on the drivers side rear of bellhousing. Any relation?
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and the readings on my sct programmer didn't change at all so I don't want to keep blindly throwing money at it if one of you has experienced this and found a cure. The interesting thing is it never throws a code or check engine light or anything according to my sct. Doesn't even show that the egr valve is unplugged. I have read that it could be a bad turbo, vgt solenoid, icp, throttle positioning sensor, or a couple other things.
It feels like I'm the front car in a bump draft in cup racing when I'm at a steady speed. The truck has arp head studs, new style egr cooler with the tubes, coolant filtration, new oil cooler, new ficm, blue spring, all filters have been changed in the last month.
2004 powerstroke surge/ rapid idle - YouTube ...
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My 2005 Excursion, at 198K miles has become more of a 'hangar queen' in that I only use it for big jobs. I've kept it for towing/hauling and making long highway runs with more than 4 people.
The truck, 99.8% of the time, runs super. It pulls like a locomotive and gets decent fuel economy (17 mpg running 75 mph empty). I've got the 'blue spring', EGR delete, ARP headstuds, 4" MBRP, Banks intercooler, and run my SCT tuner all the time on "8000 lb tow".
But...there is this weird intermittent problem. It appears to only happen when it is warmed up and driving around town. Sometimes, when I pull up to a light, with my foot on the brake, the engine will sort of go into a 'lumpy race idle' and you have to clamp down on the brake pedal to keep it from lurching into the guy in front of you. Other times, it just runs rough and idles 'lumpy'. It has only died maybe 2 times when acting up. Often, the symptoms disappear on their own and don't come back. If I turn off the engine and re-start (to keep from scaring people at the bank drive-through) it usually runs fine after restart.
I've got an EDGE CTS monitor so I've been trying to find out from that what is going on. I can't seem to catch the parameter that might tell me. My local 'indy' shop can't find any codes thrown. The truck had new alternator, batteries, and starter motor installed in January this year. These symptoms have been going on for several years. Recently, they seem to occur more often.
I've searched on this site a few times, but with no definite 'hit'. I'll admit that I'm a big out of the jargon. I keep thinking this is related to FICM, but everyone seems to say the FICM would manifest as a cold start problem. I do know the FICM sits right on top of the drivers side valve cover. It has got to get hot.
FICM?
Injectors?
How do I kill this one strange problem?
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Been working on a 2005 6.0 with 218kish miles on it. When I got the truck it had a contribution 2 code stored, no check engine light, just could see the code on the code reader.
Truck idled like crap, lacked power, so I replaced the injector. Truck improved but still had a miss, this time it had a stored code of injector 6.
Ordered another injector, got it installed today. Fired the truck up, ran perfectly, drove it around, absolutely 0 issues ran like a dream. Parked it for a few minutes before starting it again to wash it. Rough idle, not horrible, not noticeable. Cylinder 6 contribution code stored again, no check engine light.
So I drove it, I drove the hell out of it for about 15 minutes with the AC at full blast, WOT, etc etc. By the time I was done, truck was back to running smoothly.
Just walked outside after dinner to see if it would still perform well, or if it would idle poorly again, sure enough, 6 contribution, rough idle.
I just changed fuel filters with OEM, air filter is new. I just cleaned the EGR valve- although maybe it's not clean enough?? Oil change is tomorrow (had to wait for the filter to get shipped in).
I'm at a little bit of a loss on how to cure this miss, unless it's possibly an oil pressure issue from bad/old oil causing it?
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When I am on the highway, my 2005 Excursion (6.0) will hesitate/sputter/buck intermittently, usually between 70-80mph/ 1800-2200 RPM, but especially triggered by hills and inclines. Each sputtering episode usually lasts about 5-10 seconds and then will go away for minutes at a time. Does not sputter upon take off or initial acceleration. There is no smoke of any kind. Just got it out of the shop where the mechanic replaced ALL 8 injectors and the fuel pump, as well as flushed the fuel lines, and new fuel filters, and oil change (2 injectors were bad, but there was metal in the fuel filters, so to be safe I replaced all of them - ALL OEM PARTS for everything, including filters).
The week before, I had the IPR valve replaced. Also, recently had the back pressure sensor replaced and the EGR was deleted - and turbo cleaned when the EGR was deleted last month. I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor to make sure that wasn't the issue. Dropped $6k into this thing in the past month and about to lose my mind (and wallet). All research points to either clogged EGR or bad fuel injectors, but both have been addressed, so I am not sure where to look next. No current codes showing up. No signs of leaking oil.
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In your experience, what issues have you seen that caused intermittent rough running at idle, but did not throw a code. I have monitored (with numerous scanners/gauges) this 6.0, but cannot get a code or see any of the sensors out of spec.
At Hot idle:
IPR: 24.2
ICP: 640
ICV: 0.90
MAP: 14.7
MAF Volts: 1.5
EOT/ECT Deltas within 10 and Avg ECT=192, EOT=199
EGR Valve cleaned and EGR demanded = EGR Measured
Vehicle will run rough after long runs or towing. Cylinder Balance test showed all injectors on. What could be the cause?
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Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
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My ford f250 i have a intermittent knocking sound when i turn the ac/ heater? it is not all the time and can never tell when it is going to happen. i always think the worse like it is a cylinder or something.
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I just reinstalled the engine and got her running. I installed a new 6.4 starter (reman) and she spins perfect. I was experiencing this same issue prior to startup and thought it was weak batteries. The key will just click the solenoid and it turn the engine over.
Quick synopsis of what I've checked:
All grounds
All cables tight
Batteries are fully charged
Power at right fender pigtail leading to solenoid when key is engaged (tomorrow I'll ck voltage at work today)
Checked starter connections
Checked continuity on the 10g wire from the fender to the starter...all good even wiggled it hoping it might have broken internally...
To me it sounds like a bad connection but I did not mess with the harness (firewall) aside from bungeeing out of the way vertically. I can hook up a charger and she will crank with the key. I can disconnect the fender 10g and crank it from the battery with no issues.
I've quadruple checked for loose connections. Didn't have this issue before so not sure what happened. Relay sticking maybe?
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