Trying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesOn my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
View 1 RepliesEver since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
I have not had much fun with the front end of my 1999 4x4 7.3 diesel dually. Well I replaced the ball joints with moogs over the winter. Just recently I my truck has developed a thumping sound that I can feel under my driver side floor board. The weird thing is that it does not do it all the time. But yesterday I noticed it for a more extended amount of time.
View 14 RepliesI flushed my brakes this afternoon and all went well until I got in and found a red series of lights on the MFI stating "brake fluid". I touched the brakes and there aren't any. I pumped them 50 times or so and still the pedal goes all the way to the floor board. I used a machine I have used on countless other cars and have never had a problem before. I used VW brake fluid. The brake fluid container is right at the max line. The only thing that was different compared to the other cars I have done is that the Treg has two bleeders, one on the front of the caliper and one on the back. I called a VW service consultant and he told me they use the outside one to flush the brakes and so that is what I did. My only guess is there is air in the system. But, I am not sure at all how that happened.
View 3 RepliesYesterday, my truck began to shut off abruptly. Under every condition, from idling to slow running (30mph), and 70 mph, to load and no load. Wait 1 minute and it would start and run for 1 minute 15 seconds. If the batteries were disconnected, the truck would run for 13 minutes before shutting off. Have replaced the fuel filters. Still does it, but runs for between 10 and 20 minutes before shutting off.
Am seeing only two errors codes. P1000, and P0603. I was 40 miles into the Ville Vidal, when this started, and 150 miles from home. To get home, I disconnected the batteries too many times to count, and bled the HFCM numerous times. Am also seeing the moisture in fuel icon on teh dash light up when it quits, but so far as I can tell there is no moisture in the separate.
2003 F450 6.0, automatic. 150K miles.
Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
View 2 Replies172k on the girl now. Getting a little vibration while driving yesterday. Looks like it's time for new U-joints, carrier bearing pinion seal. Thinking of going grease less again since these lasted 172k. What brand should I go with? Or should I install ones that are grease able?
View 1 RepliesI added LED lights to illuminate the running boards on my Lariat. Did this about 15 months ago and all was fine until this week and I noticed they weren't coming on any longer. Both sides are out of commission. The running board lights on each side are wired to the respective plug for the running board lights on each side. The interior lights that are on the same circuit work fine (fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box).
So I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why both sides have gone out at the same time but the fuse is ok. It's winter here and my truck doesn't completely in the garage so I'm hoping to limit my time lying under the truck out in the cold, on a wet floor! I thought there might be another fuse in the engine compartment fuse box but there isn't, at least according to the manual.
2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
I've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
View 14 RepliesI am looking to mount a viair tank and compressor on my truck, I was thinking underneath on the frame. Have any pics?
View 14 Repliesif 08 factory running boards will fit on my 15? After ten weeks of waiting she finally in town but the dealer told me I never mentioned running boards so it's either swap my old ones or pay 600 for some after markets similar to the factory running boards.
View 6 RepliesLate build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
View 7 RepliesWhat is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
View 2 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesI have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
View 14 Replies