Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: IPR At 84% At Cold Idle - Throwing #5 Injector Code?
Mar 20, 2016
2003, not deleted, everything was stock except for he put a Bully Dog on it with can tunes. Died on him was replaced ICP started up ran horrible was throwing different injector codes, IPR was at 84% at idle, plus had a lot of pressure on degas bottle.
Just finished studding, deleting, oil cooler, ICP, and injectors. She started up fairly easy, only to have the IPR still at 84%, ICP bouncing between 670s to 790s this just after start up from the work. Truck still runs horrible and still throwing #5 injector code also using AE and injector 5 wont Buzz. So, would be safe to say Injector harness and IPR sensor?
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my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.
started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change
so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.
I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM
Is that necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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Been working on a 2005 6.0 with 218kish miles on it. When I got the truck it had a contribution 2 code stored, no check engine light, just could see the code on the code reader.
Truck idled like crap, lacked power, so I replaced the injector. Truck improved but still had a miss, this time it had a stored code of injector 6.
Ordered another injector, got it installed today. Fired the truck up, ran perfectly, drove it around, absolutely 0 issues ran like a dream. Parked it for a few minutes before starting it again to wash it. Rough idle, not horrible, not noticeable. Cylinder 6 contribution code stored again, no check engine light.
So I drove it, I drove the hell out of it for about 15 minutes with the AC at full blast, WOT, etc etc. By the time I was done, truck was back to running smoothly.
Just walked outside after dinner to see if it would still perform well, or if it would idle poorly again, sure enough, 6 contribution, rough idle.
I just changed fuel filters with OEM, air filter is new. I just cleaned the EGR valve- although maybe it's not clean enough?? Oil change is tomorrow (had to wait for the filter to get shipped in).
I'm at a little bit of a loss on how to cure this miss, unless it's possibly an oil pressure issue from bad/old oil causing it?
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I just did a bunch of work on my 6.0. Here's a list- head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, 2 new injectors, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, water pump, and all new injector o-rings. After messing around with a bent pushrod, cylinder 5 code and and replacing injectors the truck runs excellent. After driving it a bit I get a code "P2290 injector control pressure too low". The truck runs great with no low power, stalls, or hard start cold or hot. I do puff black smoke but that's because of the sct tuner on performance tune.
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I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
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In the last 300 miles, I have replaced all 8 injectors with rebuilt units. Shortly after assembly I had P0264, P0270 and P0272, so I replaced #2 and #4 injector. When I went to pull the oil rail, the two screws holding the top of the #4 injector were gone and the injector was in half. Easy to say, this was this issue with that one. I am assuming #2 had a coil issue.
After assembly, I am still getting P0272 with a rough idle while cold or hot. It does seem to lessen at higher RPMs.
FICM has less than 300 miles on it. Atlas 40, Ultra mods from ficmrepair.com.
Injector harness is new.
Using AE - Injector buzz test is ok. Power balance shows number #4 with slight issues. I will post screen shots tonight. ICP is always within a few points of desired. It builds in excess of 3,600 at WOT.
I have only driven 10 miles since the assembly.
1) Can air in the system contribute to this code? Should I continue to drive around and reevaluate?
2) Should I send the FICM back to Ed for review?
3) Any other thoughts?
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Have a 2004 F350 which had problems starting cold and once started had bad throttle response until warm. It also had a shudder at cruising speed when going up a slight incline, would shudder until turbo kicked in.
Pulled codes which related to FICM and codes for all 8 injectors. 7 injector codes were circuit low, cylinder 1 high. Tested FICM voltage and sent FICM out for repair.
Installed rebuilt FICM, cleared codes, and hard start went away, but cruising shudder is still present.
Only existing code is P0262 for cylinder 1 injector circuit high. I'm assuming that cylinder 1 injector is bad -- are there any tests to confirm before I take it apart to replace it?
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#2 contribution/glow plug/injector code ????? Harness looks good. What's the malfunction?? Runs rough. Never seen those 3 codes together.
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I have for a week suspected my batteries were getting weak. just slower cranking is all. I took my truck in to have a viper security system installed and while he was doing his work he killed the batteries. I saw him hook up a battery charger and started the truck. He pulled it around to me and explained how the system worked and off i went. 5 miles down the road, on the thruway, I notice a miss and I'm down on power. FICM looked ok, 48V and it was charging, 13.8 I thought I would bring it to my shop and load test the batteries. On my way here, the check engine light comes on. At the shop, load tested them and they were weak. Installed 2 brand new batteries, started it up, no difference. Hooked up the scanner and pulled a code P2077 (cylinder 6 injector circuit high) Now what? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm guessing either the FICM went bad or the #6 injector?
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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This is tough one to search on. Most of the results talk about a poor idle or the high idle mod. I simply have no cold idle up. It used to work a few years ago but doesn't anymore. I live in Colorado and it's definitely cold enough for the high idle to kick in. I have no codes, nothing bad shows up on the Auto Enginuity.
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I've had good running on the truck but lately in the cold the idle has a weird skip to it like it's missing on a cyl. It will start fine, and run fine for about 30 seconds. Then it will start to mis. When giving pedal it goes away and it's driveable but it doesn't sound right. After a bit of running it's fine for the duration while warm. My monitors are I think all good, 48.5v, icp about 1250 psi. Is this the famed "injector stiction"?
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
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I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean .... It's 98* on a cool day , when "cold" I mean just started for many hours.
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Can a leaking Y Pipe throw a P0299? Dealership says that is my problem. My MAP at idle is 14.4 EBP is 17 - 18. At 60mph MAP is 20 EBP is 26-28. Boost is 10-20 .. Truck drives great no apparent issue. P0299 only code and appears when cold first start of day. If I clear it it goes away for the rest of the day and only comes back occasionally. Twice in 5 days only at cold start. 2005 F350, 100% stock, Ford filters all. Scan guage 2 for readings....
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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2012 F250 Superduty Lariat, 6.7 L.... While driving the cold air filter came loose and threw a CEL, code 2074. Corrected that issue, but CEL came back. Codes of 2074 and 2074pd. Cleaned both MAP and MAF and codes came back. Replaced both MAP and MAF and codes came back after about 20 miles. What are the next steps?
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