Just a quick question but is it normal for the ICP voltage (ICV) to jump around a lot at idle or while cruising or accelerating? Started watching this pid and not sure what's normal and what's not.
View 13 RepliesMy truck is a 2005 f350 6.0, all stock except for an egr delete and 4 inch cat back exhaust. I recently did an oil cooler replacement and egr delete, resealed all 8 injectors, and fixed some wire chaffing at the FICM. it's running great with the exception of idling. It seems like it's idling low but the gauge stays at 750. If I hit the high idle switch, it does fine. Red lights are stressful because it shakes and sounds like it's going to die but never does. I'm posting screenshots of my Torque pro.
I have a SC2 as well but I honestly like Torque better so that's what I use most. I know my ICP is low, but 8 don't know why. No oil in the connector, and no change when I unplug it. The ICP sensor may be a month old with 1000 miles on it. This was taken at a hot startup, sitting in park. When i say hot, I mean I had driven about 60 miles. This is sitting still in drive. ICP voltage finally climbs over 1.0 when i get going about 15mph at around 1250 rpm. The second pic the ICPV is actually higher than normal. It usually stays at .8 until I give it gas.
Happened last night two blocks away from home. The idle seemed a little rough at start-up but didn't think much of it because the coolant temp was only 132 degrees. Pulled out of the driveway up to the stop at the corner. Totally bogged upon accelerating, went a block, then came the sound of a hubcap rolling down the street along with a check battery light, no power steering, and REALLY sucky brakes.
View 14 RepliesLike the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
I replaced injector couple weeks ago. I hooked up to livelink thru sct because it was throwing a low voltage for ficm code. It is staying at 48 volts tho. I don't see any voltage from my glow plug relay, and I have a low voltage for my egr valve. Is it just bad luck that everything broke at once or is there a fuse or a connector that I forgot to plug in.
View 10 RepliesScangauge reads icp ok. Ipr ok. Fmp voltage is all over the place from 42 down to 2. Flp is also all over the place from 11 down to 2 volts. And no Sync. Load checked batteries well. Voltage is 11.5 down to 10.5 when cranking. Fuel good. No pre warning signs. Parked running good. I have read tones of forums but none with 3 issues. Could it be the relay?? Would a bad ficm show no sync on cranking?? Why is my flp voltage so up and down.
View 14 RepliesI'm afraid my FICM is on its way out. I'm getting voltages dropping to 46.5V about once a minute. Never goes below that. Then it'll bounce up to around 48.5. It gets low when I have to rev up and always coincides with the main voltage dropping to around 12.9V.
Now for my battery condition. They are about a year old. I think I have one with a bad cell. They'll drop into the low 11V range while cranking after glow plug light goes off. While driving, the main voltage never gets below 13.1 except for very short periods ... which coincide with the 46.5V output on the FICM. Gonna have them tested separately at advanced auto and see on has a bad cell.
So, is my FICM starting to go? Second question. What do I tell the folks at Advanced Auto about replacing both an not just one? I suspect they'll want to argue about it with me.
Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
So I am getting low FICM volts at cold start. The FICM will start at 46v and eventually drop below to 42v, but when I start to drive the truck the FICM volts go back up to 47.5, and my battery voltage goes back up to 13.8 to 14.1.
I am pretty sure my alternator is doing its job.
I left my truck sit for 2 or 3 weeks with out starting her or putting a battery tender on it, this was about two weeks ago. I have not had this problem before. Sounds to me like the batteries need a charge.
My batteries back up to full charge. I plan on letting the truck sit over night with a charger hooked to it.
1st to 2nd fine 2nd to 3rd it jumps a few times like it cant find the gear and you will see it on the video. I am confused what it could be. the truck received a new solenoid last year from ford because the tow haul light was flashing and now i have this issue. I believe it is also the reason the truck is running much slower down the 1/4.....
Video : F250 shifting problems - YouTube ....
I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
View 14 RepliesStill chasing a surge for some time while cold, mainly. While hot and cruising 65 mph the turbo still surges faintly.. but today was a different story, very fast and high surging from the turbo only, while on overdrive as usual. It calmed down as i dropped the boost a bit but it was quick swings of about 3-5 psi which is quite bad for what it had been doing which was manageable.
Short of taking off the turbo, I took out the VGT solenoid and it had some oil burnt on the end, cleaned that up and pushed the plunger in all the way a few times and it 'seemed' to have worked greatly, until today.
I pulled some other numbers;
KOEO
Map 13.7
EBP 14.1
Baro 28.2
Cold Idle
Map 14.0
EBP 16.5
Baro 28.2
When cold, mainly below 130F the RPM gauge itself will surge or hesitate around 1700-2000 RPM. Any higher or lower it will be smoother I suppose....
I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
At idle it stays at 48.5v-47.5v But as I pick up speed it continually drops. At 70mph it gets as low as 29v. But will go back up slowly as I let off the throttle.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 F-350 4x4 CC LB. I recently had my check engine light come on coincidentally on my way to the auto parts store. Asked them to plug in the scanner and read the code. It had around 20! This truck has 40000 miles on it. All of the codes were dealing with injector voltage being low. All eight cylinders. So I'm thinking ficm is going out. I replaced the batteries shortly after this. I driven it a time or two after this and it started cutting in an out going down the road. Seemed down a few cylinders for a few seconds and pouring black smoke from the tailpipe of a stick truck. Made it home after it did this there times. Stated it up to move it a few days ago. Some white smoke that clears quickly and ran rough for a few, pulled it in gear surged forward and died. I cleaned the EGR valve and re o ringed it. Tested the drivers side pin on the FICM and have 47-48 volts with key on and cranking.
View 4 RepliesI've noticed on mornings when it's around freezing or colder my FICM voltage drops down to around 40. after about a minute it creeps up until it's in normal range, about 48 volts or better. This only seems to last about a minute before it's in normal range. No check engine lights though.
View 14 RepliesPulled the trigger today and bought a 2004 F350 DRW King Ranch with 200000 miles. Using Forscan Lite on my iPhone, KOEO FICM voltage was right at 48. During start it went up a bit. While out for my highway road test for EOT/ECT differential (never went above 10 degrees).
I noticed that the FICM voltage would drop to the bottom of the Forscan scale (40 volts) when I was accelerating and then go back to 47.5 when I reached my cruising speed. Is this normal?
Batteries are brand new from Ford. I didn't notice the battery voltage. Truck seems to run great to me, but this is my first 6.0. I also got DTC's for all 8 injectors saying Injector Circuit Low.
If I'm giving a jump:
Assume I hook positive and negative cables to the respective terminals of one of the two batteries. The alternative would be hooking positive cable to one battery and negative cable to the other battery, or does that make 24 volts? I'm also assuming if it is just the one battery, it does not matter which one you jump from?
If I'm receiving a jump:
I assume positive cable to positive post of one battery and negative cable to a good ground under the hood somewhere? Again, does it matter which battery I use? I wonder where a good ground is on this crowded diesel engine and aluminum body. Front radiator supports?
OK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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