Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Humming Noise From Front Right Side When Hit A Bump Going 65 MPH
Sep 10, 2017
So with the hurricane coming to my house I did the balljoints on my drivers side yesterday to prepare to evacuate today. Everything went smooth with no problems. Now fast forward to the drive to Orlando, I hit a bump going 65 and my front right side (ball joint replacement side) starts humming. I pull over and it stops, get out see nothing obviously wrong and start back on my way with no noise to speak of. It happened again and again I just slowed to almost a stop and it went away. Yesterday after the repair I took it on a trip through some crappy roads, the freeway, and all that to ensure she was safe with no problems. Maybe it is the bearing failing all of a sudden (it looked fine when I took it off). I have had a vibration at 55 consistently i think is the tires now that I replaced the ball joints (was waiting to have the tire shop check balance until after the repair) maybe that could be it?
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My 6.7 makes a humming noise when i shut down my engine. Starts a little loud and gets softer at the end. it last maybe for a minute. But here's the catch if i stick the key back in the ignition it stops and as soon as i pull it out it starts again.
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So I changed my fuel filter today and everything went as planned. I replaced it with a Ford OEM filters. I drained the filter housing under the truck by turning the yellow thing 1/4 turn. I then used a wrench and changed the filter. I put the new gasket on there and and tightened back down until it mechanically stopped. I then changed the one under the hood. I then did the bleed procedure 10 times and the truck fired right up.
Now for the reason with the post. I am getting a humming noise from the lower filter. I can find the issue. The yellow thing if fully seated closed and the housing is tightened as far as it can go. Under the hood, both lines are snug and on there properly. I can't figure out what is causing the humming.
The truck fires right up and the noise seems to go away, but I get the humming noise each time I turn the key on. I know something isn't right. I drove the truck around the block and didn't get any codes, but I have to drive it tomorrow and I don't want to risk damage to the truck.Thoughts on things I should try?
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2011 F-250 Lariat with 38,000 miles. What is the cause or source of humming or buzzing noise from the under the hood that starts once I turn the truck off and close the door? Lasts from 3-4 minutes and only started noticing it in the last two thousand miles or so.
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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I have 2003 f250 6.0, had the turbo rebuilt and I put it back in, my turbo is whistling but I'm also getting a humming noise kinda sounds like a when u down shift at high rpm's idk what's going on, I try and power break as well to build up boost and the tires do not even spin...
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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I have had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine for a while, and slight oil leak on the pass rear of the engine, and recently got a decent oil leak in the rear drivers side of the engine. I want to fix all three leaks if I can identify what is wrong.
Leak 1 : Front of the engine. This has been leaking a drop or two of oil every few days for over a year. Slight leak so I didnt worry about it. The leak is dripping from between the crank pulley and the engine. Is it likely the front crank seal is leaking, or maybe something above it?
Leak 2 : Rear of engine pass side. There has been a slight oil leak on this side of the rear engine for about a year too. It leaks about a drop of oil a day. I can see that the oil is all over the starter though.
Leak 3 : This just started and is a decent leak. It is dripping off the exhaust manifold as seen in the picture below and leaks a 6 inch circle of oil on the ground in a week.
Maybe leak 2 and 3 are connected? I tried to get a good look of the engine and without pulling anything off, I couldn't see any oil leaks on the top of the engine. I couldn't see the HPOP cover though because the turbo was in the way.
NOTE: I do park my truck in the driveway every day and our driveway is slanted quite a bit with the nose of the truck much higher than the back.
Here are some pics of the oil leaks:
Under pass side of truck, oil on starter : [URL] ....
Under the Drivers exhaust manifold : [URL] .....
Bottom front of engine, between pulley and engine : [URL] .....
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Brakes seem fine even when the light comes on so I'm guessing its more a sensor issue but which sensor? From researching others posts about ABS lights, seems the sensor on top of the rear differential is a common culprit, but I'm not having an speedometer issues, which also seems to be related to that sensor. It used to be if the bump was big enough to kick the cruise control off, the ABS light popped on as well, but now it's only a moderate bump and it will come on. Shut the rig off, re-start and the ABS light clears, until the next bump that is.
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My 6.0 powerstroke keeps shutting off when I hit a bump. It's like everything died and reset and I loose all memory to stereo and everything. When I got to work and popped the hood I tapped on the battery cover by the pcm and it shut off again.
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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I have searched and have found a few threads on various transmission shifting issues. However nothing really pertaining to 13+ trucks that is only happening under certain conditions. It seems earlier trucks with problems were experiencing it all the time, not intermittent.
Here's what I got.... This only happens when:
- temp is 20 degrees or colder
- Truck has been sitting and is cold
- Trans temp under 70-80 degrees
- Only happens on the 3 to 2 DOWNshift when cold
The first few downshifts from 3 to 2 have a slight clunk/bump to them...just enough to feel it. After the first few initial downshifts from 3 to 2, it will not do it then, shifts fine and smooth. After a minutes of driving it, it will not do it until the next time it meets the list of items above. If I skip this gear manually until it has warmed up, it will not do it when returning to it.
-All other gears both up and down shifting feel good just the 3 to 2 when it does happen.
Once the transmission is warm or the temp is warmer outside the problem is non-existent and transmission shifts great in all gears and is smooth as butter!
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The first time it happened, I wasn't monitoring any PIDs as I didn't have my phone with me. Not really sure if I hit a bump or anything, it just stalled. I pulled it off to the side and put it in park and started cranking. Turned over rapidly but wouldn't start. I started freaking out thinking what am I going to do? Shut the truck completely off and waited a couple minutes and then turned the key and it started right up. Drove to my destination and didn't have another issue.
I'm only driving my truck on weekends as I have a company van and I can't park my truck at the condo I'm living at right now. So sometimes it's a few weeks between drives. This has been the story of my truck use since I nought it 3 years ago. In fact I know my turbo is sticking as the most boost it builds is 20-22 psi. I probably have a sticking injector too, as it smokes unburnt fuel until warm.
So the last few weeks when driving, I've noticed that if I hit a big bump, occasionally it dies again. What I've discovered is that it won't start unless I shut the key off entirely. Meaning, if it stalls I put it in neutral as I coast, shut the key off as far as it will go and it will start up. If I just throw it in neutral and try to start, it won't.
Watching my Torque Pro display, I've noticed that it locks up (like normal when I shut the truck off w/o shutting the Torque app off). The display then has read lower voltages than normal for FMP, FLP, FVP (main, logic and vehicle? can't remember ). FMP is normally at 48.5v and the other 2 hover around 13.9v. The last time it stalled, I noticed 9.3v for FLP and FMP was 23.4. I'm not sure if this is what it shut off at or if I panicked and tried starting it w/o shutting the key off entirely. So please don't take those readings as gospel.
I scanned it for codes, but nothing popped up.
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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I have noticed my truck makes a front end noise when I make turns, like from a main road to a side street. What seems to cause it is if there is a little dip or bump during the turn. The noise it makes sounds almost like a tire rubbing a splash guard or something. It comes from the drivers side. It he truck is stock with stock tires and wheels and has 4300 mi on it. I was maybe going to take it to the dealer...
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I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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My 2011 is making a strange humming sound after shutdown. It seems to be related to the normal waste gate sound. I have a video....
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