Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Straighten Pushrod Guide In Head Gasket
May 17, 2015
I just did head studs, gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler, hpop, up pipes, exhaust, and turbo rebuild on my 03' 6.0. I started the truck and it ran kind of rough but I figured it was air in the oil. Then I heard a choppy sound from the tailpipe and my first thought was bent pushrod. I let the truck run for a couple of minutes while I looked and listened to the engine and it seemed alright but I shut it down to pull valve covers. I had a code for cylinder 5 contrabalance so I started there.
The pushrod was definitely bent so I ordered one and threw it in. The truck runs amazing now compared to anytime I have ever heard it run, and all rockers move as it looks like they should but I still do have popping through the intake. I took cylinder 5 pushrod back out and I think the gasket bent from when the pushrod bent the first time. Even though the rocker is moving I think the bent gasket is pushing the pushrod on the side of the lifter maybe? The guide in the gasket is folded over and I don't know how the hell to bend it back besides a screwdriver.
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So, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
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Truck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
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Any DIY way to straighten a bent front frame horn? The wreck pushed the driver's side horn about an inch towards the passenger door. The bend is right at the cross member.
Using a Porta Power hydraulic jack to push one of these? Not sure how I'd keep it from just bending the opposite, but can prolly figure that out. Just don't know if those are strong enough. I see 4ton and 10 ten models.
Otherwise, are there any other hillbilly methods for pushing or pulling?
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Having issue with synthetic oil (Rotella T6) causing leaks in the 6.7? I'm getting ready for my first oil change and I don't want to have an issue like I did with my 7.3 leaking from the oil pan gasket when I used synthetic.
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I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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Any head handy that they could measure for me (or head gasket)? Wondering what the dimensions of the head surface is.
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If you have a blown head gasket on a 6.0, after the gaskets were removed would you be able to tell where the gasket failed?
Since the gaskets are metal or multilayer metal in some cases would you be unable to tell where the gasket failed or would it always be visible?
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Are you supposed to reuse the old metal gasket or leave it out?
2006 F350 4X4
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I just had headgaskets (oem) studs, egr delete,oil cooler done on my 06 plus water pump cause the gasket blew. I have a sct livewire hooked up monitoring everything and tonight i noticed that the eot and ect's were way off. fully warmed up and rolling 65 Anywhere from 40*-50* out it was eot-156 and ect-172. Degas bottle was at the normal level.
I am also having issues with the fuel gauge. Every now and then the gauge will go to E and the miles to E will display ---. Turn the truck off and back on it works again. I am half assuming its the plug on the sending unit or the sending unit itself.
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So I'll give a little history. Had blown head gaskets so I tackled that got it back together and now I can't get it to start. I have a monitor but it won't tell me if I have ficm sync. I have 1500 psi cop reading. I have spinning it over far 15 to 20 minutes. I'm using a bluetooth scanner and a app on my phone. I have no codes thrown or anything else. Do I keep cranking on it or am i missing something.
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I just pulled the cab and did headgaskets, studs. I put everything back together and when I turn the key, nothing, no lights, zero.
I've checked all connections and batteries are good, checked all fuses, where to start with this?
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So I am just wrapping up getting my head gaskets done for the second time. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Truck now has 90K mi on it and I have had nothing but Matt's tunes on it since the head gaskets were done originally. I have only towed once and I put the 8K tow tune on for that trip.
ARP studs were used but heads were not decked then. OEM gaskets, done by Ford.
So a head gasket failures with ARP studs and doing everything else the FTE way?
New heads are decked and o-ringed. Planning to go a little more gentle with the tuning, but don't really want to. Driving it stock just sucks.
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I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
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Ran fine, did the head gaskets ,egr delete, oil cooler and 12mm dummy plugs. Primed the fuel system, oil pressure looks good on the guage , spins fine but doesn't seem to be making any attempt at starting . Gave it a shot of quick start and it never so much as kicked. Everything looks good, nothing leaking and nothing obvious. To top it off we are without power after Hurricane Mathew left his mark.
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What is the part number for the gasket that goes on the water separator on a 2003 6.0 diesel.
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