When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
One of my batteries on my van is on the frame rail. The box rusted out so I routed the battery into the back of the van for now. The van wouldn't start because the batteries were low. I charged the battery in the front engine bay overnight but it did not charge the 2nd battery, does that mean there's a disconnect between the two batteries? I thought they were in parallel.
View 2 RepliesHaving some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
View 14 RepliesI just added 2 used 08 E350s to the fleet both about 180k on em and 1 has a little issue with oil temp and pressure. Driving ect is 222 and oil temp hits 240 then oil gauge drops to 0 and oil light comes on. I know the cooler is junk, but I am gonna pull the lp pump off and see what I find. I have a chance to fix this, or should I just order the 13k box with a reman in it.
View 13 RepliesI bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?
My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.
I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.
Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.
I have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
View 9 RepliesA friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
View 13 RepliesI have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
View 2 RepliesRemoving the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
View 6 RepliesSo my dog was riding in the back seat of my 2011 SD with covers when he suddenly went nuts over seeing a bunch of Prong Horn running along the road and jumping a fence. It was pretty cool to see, but he scratched the heck out of the arm rests.
How the scratched dark grey color can be repaired? Everything about the truck has remained pretty pristine inside and out, but this is really bothering me and I can find no information.
I'd even consider recovering all 4 with some sort of kit, if available like they have for some dashes and interiors.
Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
I've got a 2005 E350 6.0L with a 4x4 conversion and Sportsmobile penthouse roof. We barely made it out of Big Bend NP yesterday. Here's the protrusion of events...
Had rough starting for a while (separate conversation). Yesterday AM had a tough start and check engine came on. We were about 5 miles up a dirt road, no major off roading but dirt and bumps along the way down. Throughout the day made a handful of stops/starts. Each time battery light would stay on and then go off after getting to about 2k RPM. On the drive out I noticed the battery gauge decreasing.
Turned off all radio, lights, etc. Kept dropping and eventually the "limp home" mode kicked in with the battery gauge below L. Maybe 20 miles of safety mode at 50mph all gauges went off. Still driving. Another 5 minutes all gauges kicked on and showed normal. Stopped, turned off and restarted and drove normal the rest of the way into town and full highway speeds.
I have it in a shop now but would love to back up what they might tell me. My guess. Loose connection to alternator or battery somewhere. I originally thought the alternator had crapped out but it having kicked back on with no issues for the last 30 miles makes me think that's not it. Batteries are only 3 months old. Battery gauge back to normal today and started up/made its way to the mechanic no problem.
Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.
The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
View 3 RepliesCan I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
View 6 RepliesAny luck reattaching tailgate end cap molding? Mine has a few broken tabs and is hanging on for dear life. But if I can reattach I would. I know I could drill a few holes and run in some self taping screws, but that would be quite ugly.
The tab(s) broke when lifting the heavy gate with the step closed one to many times. Using the left side now to close.
Part number 8C3Z9941018AA.
Item 2 in below image...
Just picked up a new to me very nice 2011 F350 SWB 4X4 Lariat. While going through it and I missed this when buying it, the top of the under-hood fuse box was missing and just covered over by a makeshift cover of rubber and black duct tape.
I have ordered and received the the new fusebox cover ( what a bear to get into place ) and then figured out that the PO had broken the clips that lock it down.
I have tried to get a long zip-tie around it, not much luck, and now I get a C-clamp into there to keep it closed?
I really do not want to have to order a new fusebox and pull this one apart and rewire, that just screams electrical gremlins for the life of the truck.
My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.