Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Hot Crank No Start Sometimes
Apr 13, 2017
The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
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Brother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
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05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
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I have a 05 with 100K miles on it. I had the HPOP, FICM and EGR delete do about a year ago. Went to start the truck pressed the pedal and it died and won't start. It dies once while driving about a week ago but restarted. I have a Snap-on scanner for the data. FICM tested good and getting fuel to secondary filter. Batteries and filters are new with about 2K miles on them. Would this data point to a bad IPR?
ICP V KOEO = .25V
ICP V Cranking = .28V
ICP_DSRD 1251 PSI Cranking
IPR Duty 15% KOEO
IPR Duty Cranking 85%
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I had a crank no start with very low hpo pressure. I went to do an air test and could not get my IPR valve to do anything with 12 volts applied. I have a switch wired to it, and went as far as wiring the IPR valve directly to the battery and got nothing. This is a brand new ipr valve, never seen a mile of driving, and I'm wondering if my luck could really be bad enough to get a bad one in the box, or if it could be my truck that's frying them. I have cranked on it a lot trying to start, but I have a feeling this IPR is to blame. I'm on my way to get a warranty replacement now. If my truck could frying them, would that be just a bad ground or what? Any way to test my wiring? I have a multimeter...
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2004 6.0 truck ran fine parked it, went out next morning and has been a crank no start. Brand new ficm put in today. Also scangauge readings while cranking.
IPR DUTY 30%
ICP -1000+
ICPV-.2 and rises
FICM-49.5 Never drop below 48
FICM LOGIC-11.5V And it also drops to 9 volts cranking
FICM SYNC-Yes
CAM/CRANK SYNC-Yes
I can here fuel pump running and have checked the bowl and fills in 3 second, also have held valve down in oil filter housing and it fills up in 4 seconds. Oil level perfect half tank fuel .. Also I get no smoke from tail pipe while trying to crank. Acts like it not firing or has no fuel... Driving me crazy been working on it for three weeks.
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Just installed lots of new parts on this late 04 6 liter HPOP, Stand pipes, nipple cup orings, head gaskets. and now she wont go. Just cranks. Doing an air test now, should I be able to hear anything form the oil fill tube? It builds oil pressure just not right away, I did have an icp code. but has gone away as of now (p2285). What's consider a long crank time?
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with strange symptoms. It will start cold and when you drive it for a while, then turn it off, it will start again right away. If you leave it for an hour you will get a "crank no start". Leave it till the engine cools down completely and it will start again.
The other day it wouldn't start cold, but after I had it towed in to a mechanic, he turned the key and it started right away. I left it with him for 3 days and he could not get it to "not start". So I picked it up and drove it for an hour, parked it and left it for an hour came back and had a "crank no start" till it was cold again. I love my truck but it doesn't seem to like me.
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Today I was driving my 04 f350 6.0 I got to a red light when it turned green I hit the accelerator and it would not go it would only go about 10 so I limped to a parking lot and it shut down, it will crank and it sometimes Will start but only rev up to a grand then put in drive and it dies I had someone run me out a new pre programmed FICM and I replaced it right there and still will crank but won't run so I had it towed to a ford dealer and dropped my key in the drop box, what it may be?
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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Truck Details:
2004 6.0 F250 extended cab.
Mileage: 1,162,000 Kilometres (the dash stopped at 999,999)
Egr is deleted.
Motor has approximately 120,000 miles on it.
The previous owner delivered campers with it. He said that almost everything in had been replaced except the transmission.
I've had an intermittent crank, no start since I've owned the truck. (2.5 years) It's only happened maybe 5 times and the second attempt was always successful....until yesterday morning.
It threw a few codes but none I believe related to the no-start. One code for a transfer case issue, one for a turbo under-boost, one for the ac clutch not communicating, one for the exhaust pressure sensor not communicating. I would list the actual code #'s but after the first scan I reset them due to my ignorance.
While cranking I get the following numbers:
FICM LPWR- 11 to 12.5 volts
FICM MPWR- 47.5 to 48.5 volts
ICP v- up to 1.8 volts
ICP pressure- up to 1493 psi
IPR %- 15 to 55%
No FICM sync
No ckp/cmp sync
RPM- 0 to 60 and fluctuating
FUELPW- 0.00 ms
I've checked hertz across the red and orange wire at the centre plug of the pcm while cranking and i believe it tested good at 1.4 hertz. The batteries are both getting old and I plan on replacing them but the voltage seems adequate.
The following Forscan tests all checked out good.
PCM KOEO
PCM KOEO injector electrical
TCM KOEO
There were a few others but I think they're irrelevant and they checked out good anyway. I've visually inspected for chaffing but I need to look harder still. There were definitely no codes regarding the cpm, ckp or ficm. Based on what I've read, the fluctuating rpm reading should point to something I'm not aware of.
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So I was have a problem the other day with code p2285 did some more checking and found an hpo system leak. Bad injector o ring. I have fixed that. But now when I got it all put back together and went to start it up now have no crank at all, the wrench light is coming on, when I hook up my scangauge it will not connect (so I can't get any readings or codes) I have checked all the fuses that have to do the the ignition system.
They all seem fine. I can get it to crank if I jump the starter wire to the battery. I really need to get this figured out my mini Cooper is waiting for a new clutch to get here and with my truck down I can't get to my job sites next week. I don't know of its just a coincidence or not but while trying to get he truck to start my batteries got drained so got them charged and one was bad (it's less then a year old).
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So my 04 f350 was running fine good power and everything till I shut it off a couple days ago and now when it is cold it fires right up but when the truck warms up it just cranks and cranks .... only code I throwing is p2285
Key on engine off
Ipr-14.8
Icp-0
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine running
Ipr-33.5
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp-875
I thought I fixed it before but I was sadly mistaken replaced the ICP and IPR...
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Long story short: Got EGR Cooler and Oil cooler installed last week. New headgaskets and bolts. New down pipe. New orings on injectors. HPOP was installed 3 months ago before any of the above work.
Truck drove great for about 100 miles. Then stalled at a stop light. Restarted it. Drove another 10 miles. Truck then dies on me at 25mph. Wouldn't restart immediately. 10 minutes later it started. I drove it back home (couple miles). When i hit the last stop light, the idle immediately changed to crap. Very rough. Got home and parked it and since then I have not been able to start it.
I changed the EGR Valve, tried to start it and it wouldn't. Changed IPR Valve. Put all back together. No start. Cranked beautifully. But doesn't sound like it's taking fuel. note - no buzz/clicking from injectors and no fuel pump noise.
Here are my readings. FICM Sync - 1. I am stumped. I did recommended KOEO, checked emergency fuel switch reset, batteries are at 13.5 avg, checked harness wires and found one connector that wasn't snapped in cause the retaining clips were broken. Getting this connector replaced. Found another wire below chaffed. It is on the intake manifold. what is it for and could this be my problem? Pic below? This is where it connects to intake chaffed. The top of the two wires where they go into the connector were twisted around each other. Maybe wire to wire, maybe not. Would this cause my injectors to not buzz or fuel pump to not come on???
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