Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Hole In Transmission Case / Burning Smell?
Mar 4, 2012
After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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What is that Burning Smell?
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Today I noticed this burning smell under my hood and a bit of a engine knock on idle... It doesn't knock all the time tho ??
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Got home today and smelled the "oil burning" smell. Blue smoke, didn't smell like brake pads. The smoke was evident from the right rear wheel. Put her in the garage and pulled the wheel. By the time this was done there was no smoke and no fluid anywhere, but there may not have been when it was smoking either. The drum was hot, the axle housing was not hot until closer to the drum/disc/wheel. The differential was slightly warm. Vent was not plugged. No obvious accumulation of lube or fluid on the inside of the wheel. Plenty of disc pad left. The actuator for the emergency brake that sticks out the back of the brake/plate assembly was super hot.
If I decide to pull the hub/rotor to inspect the brake shoes am I getting in far enough to commit to doing a full hub/bearing/seal inspect replacement? I'm getting old enough to pay a shop for this stuff and save my back, but if it's a no-brainer repair to get new seals I'd like to do it and save some bucks. Might as well do both sides right?
I'll be driving cross-country in June with a slide-in camper and want it done rather than a band aid job. It's never been checked before. 2006 F350 -- 150k miles. I'll keep searching the forum for answers but would like some opinions...
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Left work tonight in heavy snow fall. Was in four wheel drive and following some slow pokes, till I could finally pass. I thought the smell was the cars ahead of me. Got to my crash pad, (5th wheel home away from home) and noticed the smell seemed stronger in the cab. Checked under hood and is not from the engine. Cab stinks bad.
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Last spring my 2004 Camry, 3.3L with only about 115,000 KM (71,500 miles) started losing Transmission Oil. The lost of oil was very minor but I still had to keep an eye on it.
Last summer, I took the vehicle to a Toyota Dealership and they found the problem. It seems that corrosion created a small hole it the transmission case. just behind the driver's side wheel. The Service Tech was very nice and shared that in all of his years working at Toyota, (about 20 years) he had never witness this and none of the other mechanics had seen this as well. He indicated that my choices were simple, change the transmission or try and repair the hole with J-B Weld type of cold weld product (not sure if they used the J-B Weld product). I of course decided to use the cold weld product as per the mechanic's recommendation.
Well, last fall, the leak started again and it leak all through this past winter. The vehicle now has about 130,000 KM (90,000 miles). Besides this problem, the vehicle is in good shape and still runs very well. The funny thing is that the vehicle had a corrosion product sprayed on the vehicle soon after it was purchased.
Link to photos : [URL]............
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Well, I have the dreaded transfer case leak on my 112000 mile 03 2.7 santa fe. I have just returned from a 12,000 mile trip through Canada, Alaska and then back to Colorado. During that trip I was smelling a burning oil smell and after I came back I traced it to the transfer case. I think it is leaking both from where it mates to the drive train and a one inch seam along the transfer case plate.
It has leaked there for some time(and I had been diligent about filling it up), but this extended trip it has has been more bothersome. I called the local Hyundai shop and they want $1100 and won't guarantee a fix. Is there some product I could use on that one inch seam externally to stop the leak (I know that wouldn't seal the circular seam around the drive shaft)? I kept very accurate gas records and averaged 25.6 MPG for the whole 12k trip running from 55 to 65 MPH.
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I smelled it this morning and when driving home and it almost smells like wires burning and its pretty strong. I looked all around the dash and can even smell it under the hood. And by the way the cruise control recal was done on it so it shouldn't be that. Hopefully my truck doesn't catch on fire over night.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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I was looking for something to cover the four holes in the bed that my fifth wheel hitch fits into. The hole size is 2 inches. What is the diameter of the ford OEM pucks that come with the fifth wheel prep package. By the way I really like my new 18K pull-rite super glide hitch worked great my first trip with new fifth wheel. Pulled about 13000 lb trailer on 1200 mile from central California up to Grants Pass, Oregon and back down the coast. I used 93 gallons and got an average of 12.3 mile per gallon. Truck worked like a charm. No issues.
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What is the correct way to clock the transfer case so it will line up with the new transfer case shift motor. I have read that you should not clock the transfer case shift motor.
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Couple weeks ago found some oil drops in the drive way so I got Underneath to see this disappointment. Hope the pictures come through for you all to see. She's been in the shop since Monday.
front crank case seal gone bad! what a mess.
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I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
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We have a 2003 Explorer Sportrac and the fuel cap light came on. Then ck engine light came on. took it to a dealer to check it out. Said it has a fuel pressur issue. could be the cap or something in the fuel tank. it needs a pressure check they said. cleared codes and put new factory fuel cap on. 2 weeks later it happened again.
XLT model 108,000 miles on it and we are the original owners...
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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Did my first oil change with Rotella T6. I drained, replaced filter, filled with 13 quarts new. Started engine, let it idle about a minute, turned off, checked level and everything was good. Then I drove about 3 or 4 miles just to make sure everything sounded ok, and when I got back home checked level one more time. After driving, the oil level was still fine, no leaks detected anywhere, but there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick. Is this normal?
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I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
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On Friday my turn shaft broke, 70 mph on the highway. As soon as it broke burned oil like a freight train, I know seal in the turbo. Bought brand new Garrett turbo installed last night. Let idle for 5 minuets and went and drove it and it burns oil once I get on it. Drove it for about 3 miles comes and goes? I did break a piece of the turbo vane off 1/4 inch by 1/4. The truck runs fine no knocks or misses. Could this just be oil left over or is there something else I should be looking for?
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Lately my right fog light bulb is burning out, and I notice water on bulb and lens fogged. Dealer is telling me they have to take picture, send to ford for approval to replace under warranty. Really?
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2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
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One of the great things I liked about the new 6.7L engine was the lack of any diesel smell. While the tips of the exhaust pipes remain clean at 64,000+ miles, no soot, my truck now has a strong smell of diesel after each use. The truck is running strong but I can't figure out why this is happening.
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