Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: High Pressure Rails - ICP Readings Mostly Below 100 Hot
May 18, 2015
I have replaced hpop, lpop gears and cover, stand pipes, dummy plugs, rebuilt high pressure rails, and i still have issues. The icp readings on torque pro are mostly below 100 hot. I am clueless... I ordered the icp air fitting but it wont be here until tuesday.
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What are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
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I'm going to wire up a few sets of LED lights under the side rails in the bed of my F350 and connect them to the Aux 4. 2 Questions:
1. What's the best way to feed the wire from the upfitter switch out of the cab? Is there a way too feed it out the back, behind the rear seats? Or do you think it would be easier to route it under the cab, out through one of the sill plates?
2. Can I ground it to any clean piece of metal on the frame? Will this create possible issues with the stereo and feedback (ground loop).
The LEDs I'm using are a series of 24 LEDs that are bright white. I wired them into my duck boat under the gunnel rails and they're perfect and work great and their just super glued in place and have been through 3 duck seasons and work like new and are still attached like new.
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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1999 F150 .... Been troubleshooting ac on my Dad's truck. Read the FAQ and after going through all the diagnostics on the ac (low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, ac clutch relay, coil resistance all OK) I found issue with the clutch gap. I removed the washer in the clutch and put everything back together and the clutch is engaging properly now ( the gap is around .020 now) and seems to be working ok. I borrowed a set of gauges from a friend and want to verify the low and high side readings to see if the charge is adequate. Getting about 48F air out of the vents with outside temps around 85F. What the low and high side pressures should be running at that outside temperature?
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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Replace them? Have a new set on the shelf, however, the 252k ones that are installed now give no high ohm readings.
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I have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct
Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v
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My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
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I've found everything there is to know about disconnecting the high pressure oil STC line from the oil rail on the early 6.0's, but I can't find anything about reconnecting them. Do you simply press it back on? Should there be an audible "click"?
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Probably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
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Live data readings dropping to zero while hooked up with AE. They drop to 0 and come back but it's pretty annoying. Not sure if it's my old laptop or the actual program itself.
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I have a 04 CC F250 6.0. Lately my EOT and ECT have been all over the place the ECT has been fluctuating more than the EOT. For the past 100K miles my deltas have been within the 15 degree range. The ECT will vary up to 25 degrees from the EOT; EOT may be 180 and ECT 155. I purchased a new water temp sensor thinking that was the culprit, but haven't replaced it yet. I am using a scanguageII to monitor engine parameters. I have noticed when starting the truck in the morning the temps seem to be stored from the previous night, ex. ambient temp is 75 and SGII shows 90 then comes down to match the ambient temps. For the past few days I have been noticing the truck runs and starts smoothly until I get up to 50 mph, when cold, then starts to develop a miss until it reaches operating temps. Once reaching operating temp the truck runs smooth. Could the ECT sensor cause this or is there something else going on, missing at hwy speeds until warmed up?
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What is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
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I've been watching fluid build up on what I think is the hi-pressure line on the hydroboost. It appears to be originating at the coupling in the line because it is dry back at the unit.
Is there an o-ring or nylon washer in this fitting?
Can it be tightened?
Does the o-ring or washer need to be replaced?
Is it a sign of something else, like a build up of pressure in the line that is too high?
I currently have zero problems or noise coming from the steering or brake system.
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I am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
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I have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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