Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: High Idle / Shake And Drop In MPG
Jun 13, 2016
Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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Truck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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So I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
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I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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I posted many months ago about a problem I had while towing. This weekend I towed about 5,000 lbs, bumper pull with no load distribution, for about 600 miles. The truck did well except for the steering shake I noticed at 75 mph. The road was smooth, all interstate, but it did go away when traveling about 70 mph. I've had the tires road force balanced, two alignments and it's stock with 20 inch BFG's AT (2012 Laria 4 door, 4x4, diesel). I'm running 65 psi with a dual steering stabilizer from pro comp and all four shocks pro comp as well. Could it be the casters or anything similar?
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I have been ignoring a slight aggravating shake in the steering wheel for quite some time. I just assumed tire out of balance or slightly warped front rotor or some ball joint work due to approaching 80,000 miles. Well the slightly warped rotor became much worse so i dove into the front brakes. Long story short it ended up being the rear brake rotor/caliper sticking transferring the vibration to the steering wheel. With two other vehicles to maintain i missed/neglected the rear hardware on the truck. So keep the rear brake hardware on your radar for a front end shimmy. Its gone now and a pleasure to drive again. I do have the crew cab and 8' bed which gives the rear end a long lever.
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I purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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Looking for instructions, How to drop the DEF tank? I've loosened a few bolts, but still can't get my hand in to thread in the nut. I've already lost one nut, gotta pick up a replacement at the store tomorrow.
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Recently my fuel gauge malfunctioned. It wouldn't register fuel in tank. When I filled tank a couple times gauge worked but as soon as a gallon was used it would drop off. Now gauge not working and wrench appears code flash 246c and check engine light on says reduced engine power and says drive to clean exhausts emissions. No miles to empty registered as it reads --- miles to empty.. Also... What's this about egr replacement and should I contact Ford for this as I had no notification.? I have 2011 f250 SD 6.7
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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I know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
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I have a 99 f350 and I can't get my truck to kick up the idle when it's cold out. There have been mornings in the negatives and still nothing. I replaced my egr tube and cleaned the exhaust pressure sensor. My exhaust back pressure valve opens and shuts while driving at slow speeds but not while at idle, but I don't know if that's related. I replaced the oil temp sensor with a ford motorcraft one. And I plugged my intake air temperature sensor into a buddy's truck with the same motor and his truck still idled up no problem.
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