Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: High Idle Mod - Intermittently Blowing Fuse
Jul 14, 2016
I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
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I have a fleet of F250s and 350s through my business. I have recently been having problems with a f250 2015 6.7. It has approximately 110k miles and a new transmission was put it about 12,000 miles ago. Since then we haven't had a problem until now. Recently (2 days ago) it started blowing a fuse, #46 (transmission control moduler) and lighting the entire dashboard up like a Xmas tree.
Check engine light, maintenance required, hill descent, etc. However it is completely random when it does this. It has happened a total of 11 times in 2 days. 6 times in a row yesterday then didn't do it until late this evening 5 times in a row. It will get parked, turn it off, try turning it back on and the fuse is blown, replace it same thing... then will eventually start.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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I have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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Drove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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So I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
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I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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