Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Headlights On But Switch Is Off
Jan 9, 2016
I just happened to look out the window of the house and see that the headlights on my truck were on. However, they were turned off from inside. When I stepped on to the porch, I immediately smelled something electric smoking. I tried turning off the lights by switching the lights from on to off, but that didn't effect the lights at all. There was a humming close to the turbo and the smoke seemed to be in the cabin more so than under the hood. I've had this truck for most of its life and it's never had an electrical issue. What it could be?
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
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Replaced the vacuum solenoid.. Thought that would fix the ac blowing threw the defrost when I switch to 4x4, but didn't fix the issue, 4x4 works great. There is another little diaphragm that has a vacuum line to it that opens and closes, could this be causing the air to go defrost? I'm going to go to a buddies house and test for leaks this Saturday, just trying to get a jump on it...
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My headlights are blinding other motorist an I can't figure out how to adjust them...
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Noticed a problem on the way to work my passenger headlight doesn't work when they are on automatic but do work when I turn them on manually with the switch
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My dads truck is an 04 and we have went through this before. We replaced the whole head light switch and they still didnt work. All the sudden one day they started working again. They have worked recently until now. Same condition as before, the fog lights work, parking lights work and when you pull the lever back for high beams they come on as well but no headlights. Looking for a diagram to track this down.
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My truck was leaking a bit of oil in the valley that was running down the back of the engine. Found the oil pressure switch was leaking up through the plug, replaced it and when I fired the truck up it was leaking more than before. Long story short, the oil pressure switch stripped out the oil cooler cover. I've been doing some research online and found a few threads about adapters that guys have made but no luck on where to buy one. I really was hoping to not have to tear this thing down to the oil cooler again.
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where the oil pressure switch is on a '05 E350 6.0 PSD? My filter is on the bottom, is it near or part of that housing?
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Wanted to replace my front headlights on the '06 with the PIAA Extreme White bulbs.
Before I ordered them I looked to see how easy the bulbs were to access...
Looks like its a bear to access. Is there a video??
As a side note I already have the Brite Box installed, which I really like
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How do you remove the front grill? I'm changing the bulbs in my headlights, and I know it's stupidly simple just can't remember how to do it.
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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Trying to locate the wires for the 4 Auxiliary switches as I want to tie into #4 to the 10 amp switch. This is on a 2015 F350 with a 6.7 engine. Book says the wires are located to the right of the glove box door and just above the passenger side kick panel. Tried this location with no success.
On my 2009 dually the wires were easily located on the drivers side on the firewall in the engine compartment.
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Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
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Probably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
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2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
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I Probably don't have the right forum but I have searched without luck throughout the site looking to see if any one has swapped out their regular towing mirrors for a set of powerscope ones with power fold and telescopic functions. I also need to know if the wiring is going to already be in there for them , I know that the switch will also have to be replaced ,but is there any thing else? truck is 2013 f250 and this forum seems to have the most responses for that year and model.
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Just bought a 03 F-350 dually today. 6L 4x4.
Headlights don't work , everything else does? Dash lights , taillights , cab marker lights all work. Headlights and front park lights don't?
I also see the overhead console is dead and shows nothing? Plus the ignition turns without a key being in it?
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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I have an early 99 f350. when i got the truck the OD switch(maybe light too) didn't work. i ran it for about 1k mi. yesterday i left work to come home and i didn't have 1st or 2nd gear but still had 3rd and od. the only way to get 2nd is to manually put it in 2nd gear. 1st seems to be nowhere around.
I do not have a code reader and wont for at least a month or so. I did install a simple ts6 in it, that's about all i did with the truck.
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