Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Hard Steering / Can Barely Turn The Wheel When Stopped
Sep 23, 2013
I have an 8 inch lift with 37x13.5 inch tires and dual front steering stabilizers. when I'm stopped I can barely turn the wheel. my buddy has a 6 inch lifted excursion with 35 inch tires in his is easy, one hand no problem. Would the difference in tire size really make that big of a difference or am I having a steering pump issue?
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I have a 2015 Platinum Superduty that came with a heated steering wheel but cannot figure how to turn it on and off. I have looked for a dash switch and in the climate portion of the touch screen with no luck. My wife's car has a simple dash mounted switch and also a temp sensor that cuts it on automatically when cold. No such luck with truck.
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I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
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The steering on my truck has become a little heavy after making a turn and bringing the steering wheel back to center. The steering feels heavy like I had a front tire half way down. There's a lot of drag then once on center it's gone. Could it be the beginning of the end for my ball joints?
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So today out of nowhere the truck starts acting up with the steering. It got tuff to turn the wheel and then would "release" and steer ok. I drained the fluid (brownish and stinky) and added new.......
Crawled under the truck and the rack was damp....... The old fluid (likely original with 120k) had small metallic piec s in it.......Is the rack toast? Or shall I look somewhere else too?
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I posted last month that I have hard steering when stopped while stepping on the brake. Feels like there is no power steering boost at all. The dealer claimed it was a failure in the steering box due to a leaking seal. Replaced the box. Not fixed. Dealer now says it is normal; there is not enough pumping capacity or pressure at idle to operate both the brake booster and the power steering booster. Its true that when I ease off on the brake a little and let the truck roll even just a little bit, I get steering boost.
I need a handful of guys with trucks like mine (02, 250, PSD) to go check their trucks, and let me know if they behave the same way. Mine turns with steering boost as soon as I ease off the brake and let it roll a little, but at full stop is feels like no power steering; very hard to turn wheels, and pump makes a slight growl (more like a grinch) just as if it was at a full turn stop.
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My car steering wheel is hard to turn now and i don't know why it's doing this.
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Truck was running fine. Stopped and got fuel. Then crank truck and after about 15 secs it shut itself off. Now it WILL turn over but it is very slow and sounds "tight". 2004 f350 6.0 4x4 auto. I'm leaning towards torque converter.
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My car's about 1.5 years old and 10k miles. About a week ago I started noticing that the power steering got a fair amount heavier/stiffer: it's suddenly a bit harder to turn the wheel. It came out of nowhere and I can't identify a cause, and the local dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car. (2012 SE I4)
Since it's electric power steering I'm not sure what could have gone wrong here... and while it doesn't make the car un-driveable, it is rather annoying. The tire pressure is still around 37 PSI (according to the sensors) and they're Michelin.
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Was on the way home today and was taking a long sweeping left-hand curve at 60 and got a horrible shake in the steering wheel. Kinda scared me a bit and let out of the throttle a bit. Didn't happen after and never has before. I'm under the impression it is more shocks maybe then steering, Reason I say that although I don't get a lot of bounce if the road isn't perfectly smooth I can really tell it. What do ya'll think?
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The power steering on my 2001 Honda Civic intermittently cuts out and the wheel becomes really hard to turn. The belt is tight and the fluid level is correct.
The weird thing about it, is it only happens in cold weather. Everything was fine all summer, but now that the weather has turned colder the problem has reappeared. Same thing happened last year. . .
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I've got a 'new to me' 4" Lift 6.0L PSD Diesel, 2005. At 60 mph, especially 75 mph, there's some 'play' or float feeling in the steering wheel. Is that a normal thing for a 4" lift? and nothing to worry about? (the dealer that sold it said they put new ball joints in it. No cheap shock problem, right?)
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Replacing Steering Wheel position sensor. How hard of job is it?
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Looking to swap out the vinyl wheel with a leather-wrapped one from a Lariat. I assume that this will be a direct swap but wanted to poll the audience to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.
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2013 F250 with 36K miles. Just in the past 2 months I've noticed my steering wheel is disintegrating at about the 12:30 position. No possibility of diesel/chemical transfer to the surface.
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I have been ignoring a slight aggravating shake in the steering wheel for quite some time. I just assumed tire out of balance or slightly warped front rotor or some ball joint work due to approaching 80,000 miles. Well the slightly warped rotor became much worse so i dove into the front brakes. Long story short it ended up being the rear brake rotor/caliper sticking transferring the vibration to the steering wheel. With two other vehicles to maintain i missed/neglected the rear hardware on the truck. So keep the rear brake hardware on your radar for a front end shimmy. Its gone now and a pleasure to drive again. I do have the crew cab and 8' bed which gives the rear end a long lever.
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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I have an oscillation in the steering wheel at speed in a turn. Feels like the pump is trying to straighten the wheel then gives up then trys again then gives up etc etc..... The oscillation is slow so its not like the wheel is shaking or about to fall off. The faster you go the more pronounced it is the tighter the turn the more pronounced it is. Doesnt matter left or right. Seems like its there at any speed but just gets worse the faster you go.
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I know that to remove the lower knee panel under the steering wheel all that has to be done is to pull it off and the attachment snaps will pop free. However, How do I go about removal of the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel? This would be the narrow panel that also houses an ac vent, headlight and I believe it is the adjustable pedal control.
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This may sound petty, but I would like to have the radio controls on the left side of the steering wheel of my 2012, instead of the cruise control. I guess the main question is how the wire harness is set up. Do the wiring can be re-routed to accommodate the switch?
Also, I want to smooth out the ride a tad so as to lessen the amount of griping from from the passenger seat. What is acceptable in lowering the tire pressure to allow a better ride without compromising tire wear? The factory specs are 65 psi. My truck is a 2012 fx4 Lariat with the 6.7
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