Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Hard Start When Cold - Block Heater?
Feb 16, 2015
Don't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I didn't have time to trouble shoot but heres my problem. I plugged my 2016 6.7L in last night and when I checked it this morning the block was still ice cold. I didn't have time to investigate but i did make sure i had power up to the truck. And i noticed there's a connector just after the truck plug as well.
View 14 Replies
Does the block heater come with some kind of a cord? I found the Box Link stuff under the back seat finally, the dealer said the block heater should be under there too? But it aint there?
View 6 Replies
Well, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
View 14 Replies
Ok, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
View 6 Replies
What the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
View 13 Replies
I can't get my truck to start. The block heater isn't working and I previously put flush and water in it, intending to drive it and flush it directly after. Well I never really could drive it and now it won't start again. The weather is going to turn off cold, around zero this weekend. I need to know how to keep the block from freezing and cracking!
View 11 Replies
When the block is cold my truck will not start. If i keep the block heater plugged in it will crank but is still a long start. I have tried just about everything i can think of and it is way too much to list so i will give as much info as i can.
New- gpr, glow plugs, HPOP, batteries, starter, fuses, valve cover harness/ injector and glow plug wiring, vacuum lines. I have checked out just about everything remotely possible.
View 14 Replies
2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
View 14 Replies
I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
View 14 Replies
My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
View 14 Replies
I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
View 14 Replies
I'm new to owning a diesel. I have a. 2004 f250 6.0. I gotta smog the truck this weekend but the check engine light is on. Fault is P0674. I've notice during the day it starts up fine but at nights, lately it's been low 40 outside it won't start. Where to start at.
View 3 Replies
Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
View 14 Replies
I don't think that my block heater is working correctly if not at all.
View 14 Replies
I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
View 14 Replies
Doing oil cooler. Block heater plug is very tight. Is it reversed threaten?
View 1 Replies
my egr delete j pipe orings give me trouble and i replaced but broke a bolt, now i think that big donut oring is leaking, i was reading you can put a 3/4 freeze plug in to eliminate any coolant into the intake, where does the freeze plug go,front cover or intake and does coolant still pass thru the j pipe?
View 7 Replies
My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
View 10 Replies
Don't know where to start so I'll ramble!
2005 f350 with the 6.0. Crew Cab, 8' box, 4x4 with DRW. I use it only take the boat to the launch 5 minutes away once in a while and to pull car trailers every other week. Majority of driving is on the highway and average trip is about 300 miles. Low power and now no start.
No codes. I do have a scan Gauge and can provide data.
Was running this week, but has had a lack of power for some time. I had put 2 new injectors in last summer. Also updated dummy and stand pipes. Blue spring. Also new IPR at the time.
Ficm board was replaced in March.
New injector harness last year. New Glow plug harness last year.
Coolant level is fine and none being lost.
CAC hoses appear fine, no cracks.
No boost. But newer MAP sensor, hose not cracked or plugged and nipple on intake is clear. Put the MAP sensor last year and it didn't make a difference.
Turbo was rebuilt 2 years ago.
IPR has to hit close to 80 before boost hits 12-15. But it takes a while to get there.
Now won't start.
Yesterday am it was about 30 farenheit and no start. Last year would start no problem.
Batteries are fine. tested.
Engine fires within 3 seconds, but doesn't want to run.
ICP is above 500. climbs as I turn over.
Fires only in first few seconds and then nothing while I keep cranking it. it is cranking fast enough though.
Now...I see IPR will hit 84.7% and then 14.8%. Not good!
When running it sits in between.
FICm voltage is 48.5 key one and 47.5 when cranking.
Wondering if possibly IPR screen is plugged? Or would CKS or CPS cause issues? I recall reading about pulling one of them and cleaning rust off of it? Also...should mention, no EGR reading on scan gauge..never was either. I had checked and cleaned egr valve before. it was clean when I pulled it and not sticking.
Intake had been cleaned 2years ago. Also, on occasion, while pulling up hill, I would get power! Black smoke and it would race up a hill like it's supposed. Then it would go back to no power.
Also...if I pull the MAP hose from the intake nipple, should I feel suction from the intake? There doesn't appear to be any air coming or going from the nipple.
View 14 Replies
I removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
View 3 Replies
