Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: HPOP Making Noise / Sound Is Prominent At 1400 RPM
Feb 27, 2017
I've got a noise that I just can't find. Have replaced a bunch of stuff trying to eliminate this sound.. steering pump, both front wheel bearings, new pads up front, both caliper brackets and pins. Did a new turbo, verified the new pump is not air bound, brakes work, no noise with wheels up, lock to lock, pumping brakes the whole time.
Sound is prominent at 1400 RPM, does go up with RPM, seems sometimes to follow a steer to the right. When I shut down, not at full temp a clunk happens, like a mechanical stop. That clunk is less noticed once up to temp and it really started after the steering pump. Sparky came over, listened with a probe, says it's not the pump, my BIL and a close friend say the same thing.
Today, when I nailed it, rpm came on hard, tires smoked and when I let off quick, truck died, like something held the belt. It just slowed and died, restarted immediately.
Shawn listened to the transmission, says he heard nothing there either but did hear something above that near the back of the motor.
IPR is spot on 21.8%, ICPV is .80-.82 and [email protected] However, it has been dropping to lower numbers recently, saw 15.4% and it often sits near 19.4%-20.4% for periods of time. Tap the throttle, right back to 21.8%.
I'm at a loss. I've tested everything I can think of. I can power brake the truck, no trans slippage, it spins the tires easily around 10lbs boost. The A/C seems low on the charge, it is freezing the dehydrator and I added some freon, 18oz can, the clutch is not frozen. Turn it off, compressor stops spinning like it's supposed to. The tensioners are not frozen or squealing, water pump is not making noise, temp is 200 on the dot. Trans is full, no burned smell. Motor oil is fresh, filters clean.
It sounds like a grinding noise and I'm about to tear the cover off the HPOP. I'm at 150k now and know it will need replaced soon, I've spent $2500 in the last 2 weeks, but before I tear it apart......
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My power steering pump was making a loud whining sound. No problem, changed the pump. Now after the truck is started I will have no power steering or brake assist, give the truck a little gas and you can hear the power steering pump "start". I have tried every way to get the air out, or is that not the problem. I even lifted the front of the truck off the ground with a forklift and with the truck off turned the wheel about six times stop to stop. Fluid level looks good and has since adding after the change.
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Quick question, does an early 04 have an SCT on the HPOP that can be upgraded?
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I have a f350 2012 that makes a strange clonk sound in the front when I go over bumps the problem is that we dont have too many us ford dealers here.
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When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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How does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
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I have a 2006 f350 PSD 6.0l that blew the turbo a few months back. Has 102k miles. I had a large truck diesel mechanic near where it blew up replace the turbo. Everything seemed to be fine but started noticing a chirping sound that would start at 2500 rpm but only with a load like pulling a trailer or going up steep grade. I have looked everywhere online to try to find something similar with no luck. The problem is getting worse and I need to find out what it is. Now the noise has gotten worse and it sputters after each chirp. It is now between 2100 and 2750. The more I push it on that rpm range the more it will sputter. If I push it enough that it down shifts, it all goes away and drives fine although seems like less power..
I am running the stock program and have changed the fuel filters, batteries, pulled off and looked at everything coming and going to the turbo and just can't find anything. I'm not sure if there are some other gauges I should be looking at while driving but I haven't found any that look like they show anything while it's sputtering and making the noise. Also I feel like it does not have the power it used to have before the turbo blew and was changed.
I also added a clip of the exhaust. I put the 5" turbo back AFE. I'm not sure it's sounding quite right. Seems to hiss a lot more than I thought it should, Don't know if it's related to my problem.
In the video I'm hauling a 14' dump trailer with very little weight in it. 2006 f350 lowres - YouTube....
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Got a 2011 f 250 6.7...turbo started making a sound more like a turbine in a plane when I hit the throttle to cross the street...boost gage went to 0...i got a new turbocharger from garrett. Installed it and when I started the car there was no boost at all. I searched for any leaks and nothing. I get a code p132b.
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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2003 f350 6.0. Ran last night and wont start today. Monitor says 85 psi pressure, should be atleast 500 to start. Could it be the IPR?
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I've gone through every possible step in diagnosing myself but can't seem to figure it out. I do not have access to shop air to do an air test. Vehicle history that I know of: Has updated STC fitting, looks to be a reman hpop. I have tested the LPOP with the oil filter housing, fills quite fast, although no pressure registers while cranking on the gauge. When I opened the HPOP case to take a look, I found the reservoir dry. What can cause the LPOP to not feed the HPOP? I will be updating everything. The truck has relatively low KMs sitting at only 163,000.
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Finally got the hpop in my 03 done, got it fired up and runs great. The longer crank times seem to be getting better, however I am a bit concerned when I really get into her I am seeing pressures of 3400 psi......seems high to me. I guess I don't know for sure what the IPR was reading, will have to check that. Truck runs great, nice and smooth, but I am afraid I am going to blow something.
What is normal and what is not? Is there a way this pump will dump excessive pressures if needed? Or is it just a matter of time before I blow an oring out somewhere? I'm not sure how much the pump is capable of putting out. At idle it's sitting right around 630 after warmed up, maybe a bit lower.
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Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
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I have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
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a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
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I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
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