Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: HPOP Cover Gap On The Back
Apr 24, 2017
When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it.
I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
Any tips or tricks?
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it. I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
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Have another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
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have a f550 with a hpop res leak on the backside and wonder if this is in fact under any pressure when functioning since it has o rings on it as well.
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Quick question, does an early 04 have an SCT on the HPOP that can be upgraded?
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How does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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I got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
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July 11, 2013 replaced HPOP. June 26, 2014, Going down I20 in Dallas engine shuts off. Three days later Ford techs declare said HPOP dead . Looking at another HPOP along with stand pipes and dummy plug seals. Hopefully I can get some warranty relief on the pump. Do these things eat HPOP?
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2003 f350 6.0. Ran last night and wont start today. Monitor says 85 psi pressure, should be atleast 500 to start. Could it be the IPR?
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I've gone through every possible step in diagnosing myself but can't seem to figure it out. I do not have access to shop air to do an air test. Vehicle history that I know of: Has updated STC fitting, looks to be a reman hpop. I have tested the LPOP with the oil filter housing, fills quite fast, although no pressure registers while cranking on the gauge. When I opened the HPOP case to take a look, I found the reservoir dry. What can cause the LPOP to not feed the HPOP? I will be updating everything. The truck has relatively low KMs sitting at only 163,000.
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Finally got the hpop in my 03 done, got it fired up and runs great. The longer crank times seem to be getting better, however I am a bit concerned when I really get into her I am seeing pressures of 3400 psi......seems high to me. I guess I don't know for sure what the IPR was reading, will have to check that. Truck runs great, nice and smooth, but I am afraid I am going to blow something.
What is normal and what is not? Is there a way this pump will dump excessive pressures if needed? Or is it just a matter of time before I blow an oring out somewhere? I'm not sure how much the pump is capable of putting out. At idle it's sitting right around 630 after warmed up, maybe a bit lower.
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05 excursion with 04 motor. 290k miles. Had a crank no start issue. Pressure tested hpop only got 450 pressure. So got a brand new on from ford. Also did standpipe, and dummy plugs. After forever and day of cranking truck fired up. Sounded great let it sit for 30 min. Took it out for ride, mile down the road lost all power. Alternator was bad, replaced that and battered just to be safe. Now truck won't fire and have zero pressure. Something that could of been tripped during power surge?
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2003 with hot no start issues. It starts fine in the morning however will not start again after the engine gets warm, after an hour or so of cooling off it will eventually go. Not sure if I should start with.... Readings below ....
FICM L 13.5v
FICM M 48v koeo and 47 running
IPR 14.7% koeo
IPR 74.6% cranking (no start while hot)
IPR 40% (after cold start while running
ICP 737psi cold start
ICP 1600psi engine running 2k rpm
ICP 360 hot while cranking
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I have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
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My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
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I've got a noise that I just can't find. Have replaced a bunch of stuff trying to eliminate this sound.. steering pump, both front wheel bearings, new pads up front, both caliper brackets and pins. Did a new turbo, verified the new pump is not air bound, brakes work, no noise with wheels up, lock to lock, pumping brakes the whole time.
Sound is prominent at 1400 RPM, does go up with RPM, seems sometimes to follow a steer to the right. When I shut down, not at full temp a clunk happens, like a mechanical stop. That clunk is less noticed once up to temp and it really started after the steering pump. Sparky came over, listened with a probe, says it's not the pump, my BIL and a close friend say the same thing.
Today, when I nailed it, rpm came on hard, tires smoked and when I let off quick, truck died, like something held the belt. It just slowed and died, restarted immediately.
Shawn listened to the transmission, says he heard nothing there either but did hear something above that near the back of the motor.
IPR is spot on 21.8%, ICPV is .80-.82 and [email protected] However, it has been dropping to lower numbers recently, saw 15.4% and it often sits near 19.4%-20.4% for periods of time. Tap the throttle, right back to 21.8%.
I'm at a loss. I've tested everything I can think of. I can power brake the truck, no trans slippage, it spins the tires easily around 10lbs boost. The A/C seems low on the charge, it is freezing the dehydrator and I added some freon, 18oz can, the clutch is not frozen. Turn it off, compressor stops spinning like it's supposed to. The tensioners are not frozen or squealing, water pump is not making noise, temp is 200 on the dot. Trans is full, no burned smell. Motor oil is fresh, filters clean.
It sounds like a grinding noise and I'm about to tear the cover off the HPOP. I'm at 150k now and know it will need replaced soon, I've spent $2500 in the last 2 weeks, but before I tear it apart......
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6.0 has had dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced and still has a long crank when cold. The kicker is that it doesn't happen when the truck is parked nose up in the driveway. It only happens if the truck is level or back into the driveway. I suspect it's that the HPOP is losing prime from somewhere.
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There are two bosses on back of hpop cover that have bolts holding heat shroud for the exhaust. How difficult are these to remove? The drivers side looks fairly accessible, but passenger side I am not too sure of. I will be back to disassembling everything in a couple of days, and just getting a heads up on it.
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