Well on the way home from work I got the P0069 code AND I noticed that when I get off of the throttle quick the turbi spools down slower? What should I be looking at? Map hose?
View 14 RepliesGot a P0470 code check engine light on. It's - 12 outside. Having problems with this in the cold? I seen something awhile back about a TSB about ice forming on the sensor on 06-07 engines. It's the second time thus winter it has come on both times it was - degrees out.
View 14 RepliesFirst there was a loud pop as if a hose came off and a power loss - don't seem to see any hose disconnected. Happened to me once and seemed to return to normal and then happened to my son. Have not driven since the last time. Both times pulling a boat.
Second issue has been going on since I got the truck - bought used apprx. a year ago - believe it to be stock. The time from pushing accelerator until actual kick in is very elongated - sometimes worse than others but very long on the worst side. Usually noticed when needing to pass on the highway. Once kicked in truck runs well.
Had a large puddle of coolant under my '05 X this afternoon after work. Seems it's leaking from the Y connection coming off the heater water control valve. See first pic.
I think it's part number 18472 (labeled with the circled 1) on left side in pic #2. Need to confirm this is the right part and the full part number?
Lastly, how the heck do you change this hose? It's tucked up under the cowl and looks like difficult.
My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
So I recently had the head gaskets done at Ford. All is good but there is a slight drip from the blue EGR hose. It made a 3" circle on the driveway after 8 days. Coolant level is still fine. I really don't feel like dropping it back at Ford. Think I can just twist the hose to tighten it a bit or is a new hose in order? It is only 2 yrs old and was not replaced with the head gasket work.
View 10 Replies2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
View 5 RepliesNoticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
How to get the boot or hose off the egr delete tube without having to tear everything apart? mines leaking i have new hose to replace just not sure how to get the old one off...
View 7 RepliesThis weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
Had a coolant leak I finally traced to the rubber hose on an egr delete (previous owner installed, not sure of brand). Looks like the jackwagon who installed it cranked the clamps way too tight and they eventually split the hose. I have a piece of heater hose that looks like the right diameter and cut to size should fit fine. I guess I am just looking for some reassurance that it would be ok to use in that situation...
View 3 RepliesJust had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
View 3 RepliesRecently I had a radiator hose split while traveling. The EOT got up to 250 degrees before I could pull over and stop the truck. I flushed the cooling system with water, replaced the thermostat, and added Ford Gold coolant as per the recommendations in the Tech folder. My oil temps are higher now than prior to this incident. Unloaded on a flat road my deltas are about 10 to 12 degrees @ 60 mph.
My water temp will stay around 190 to 195 degrees while my EOT have reached 212-215. I pulled a small utility trailer and saw a delta of 17 degrees this was at about 75 mph. Typically unloaded I would only see a delta of about 8 degrees and this was at 80mph. My question is do you think a EOT of 250 would burn the oil, I had Shell Rotella T5 5W40 in the engine. Would it be possible that the oil cooler is partially plugged from this temp?
I have an 03 super duty with the 6.0, came back from vacation with my 5th wheel in tow. Lost the upper turbo hose twice on way home. Managed to get it rigged and made it home and parked it. a week later went to uncouple and move the truck and had some very strange issues. Started fine but could barely make it up driveway (no trailer at this point). No power, felt like when turbo hose came off. Got it moved and checked turbo hose and all was good?? Went out a couple days later and no start.
Checked all relative fuses and relays and all checked good. Jumped starter solenoid and starter worked fine. turned key on and jumped quick connect on right side of engine compartment to battery and it fired right up and ran. Jiggled shifter around in park and neutral and nothing. BTW I always here the relay clicking and swapped with one of the others just to be sure, same thing. After looking on the internet for a day and a half thought maybe a NSS in the tranny but I think I have the 5R110 that does not apply??
Truck has been running very well while in the warmer North Carolina climate pulling trailers with no limp mode or wrench light. However, when daughter started the truck this morning, SGII showed one DTC and when she pulled it up it was P0675. OK, glow plug num 5 maybe or the module. No issues starting or rough cold idle. I told her to clear the code and we'll see if comes back.
She did ask if it is something she should have it repaired before the trip back to Vermont. So I thought I'd ping the group here since reading posts, they seem to be fairly easy to replace (and assuming it isn't a chafed wire) and I could probably save her some $. Just want to make sure there isn't any chance of real engine damage.
My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
It happened to me. I was 2 hours into my trip and towing the camper when I got the reduced power CEL. I have 28,000 miles on my truck and always tow in "tow/haul" mode with the exhaust brake on. I was lucky in that I has on a limited access highway and just happened to be approaching an exit to a fuel station with big rig access. I limped in there at about 20MPH checked the code with my Forscan lite and found the P259F code. I typed that into Google and found a thread on another Diesel forum! Some guys said it went away after 3 or 4 restarts. So, I tried a couple of restarts...no luck.
I was down to half a tank of fuel so I filled up and parked. As long as I was parked, I went into the camper and used the bathroom. When I got back in the truck, I thought about the WiFi scan adapter plugged into my OBDII connector and wondered if I should unplug it. I did and everything worked! So, I drove the next 4 hours in "tow/haul" mode, but I left the EB off. I also never plugged in the WiFi scan adapter because I didn't want to risk going into the reduced power mode again. Anyway, we made it home without incident. One of the reasons I traded my 2013 in on a 2015 was to get the engine improvements and the EB. I sure don't want to give up the EB. I'm going to take mine to the dealer, but after reading this post, I'm not expecting anything much.
Got this nugget this morning after dropping my daughter off at school. I also noticed a significant reduction in power. Had to get fuel so while pumping, I checked the code with my WiFi reader and Engine Link app.
Got the code number which came up with this: 6.7L ? MIL on with DTCs P208E P218F P204F ? 2011-2016 Ford F-Super Duty
I decided to clear the code and see if it would instantly return which it didn't. Power came back as soon as it was cleared too. Will see if it comes back. Looks like the code is saying there might be crystals on my DEF injector. I did have a regen last night right before I parked for the evening and then this showed showed up first thing this morning. Would a DEF injector nozzle be covered under the emissions warranty if it comes back?