I may have to replace fuel injector #8 on my 2004 6.0. Aside from doing brakes and rotors, I don't have any experience working on my truck.
Side note- this is the second injector to go bad in the past few months. Ford also wanted to replace the HFCM, so I'll be doing that as well.
My 2005 F-250 does not have power when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up then it seems fine. I believe that the fuel injectors need replacement. I was told that one cannot get new injectors. They are all re-manufactured. Is this correct?
View 14 RepliesIn the last 300 miles, I have replaced all 8 injectors with rebuilt units. Shortly after assembly I had P0264, P0270 and P0272, so I replaced #2 and #4 injector. When I went to pull the oil rail, the two screws holding the top of the #4 injector were gone and the injector was in half. Easy to say, this was this issue with that one. I am assuming #2 had a coil issue.
After assembly, I am still getting P0272 with a rough idle while cold or hot. It does seem to lessen at higher RPMs.
FICM has less than 300 miles on it. Atlas 40, Ultra mods from ficmrepair.com.
Injector harness is new.
Using AE - Injector buzz test is ok. Power balance shows number #4 with slight issues. I will post screen shots tonight. ICP is always within a few points of desired. It builds in excess of 3,600 at WOT.
I have only driven 10 miles since the assembly.
1) Can air in the system contribute to this code? Should I continue to drive around and reevaluate?
2) Should I send the FICM back to Ed for review?
3) Any other thoughts?
I recently had my injectors changed at Ford and while I was driving it started dumping coolant. If the leak can be cause from the injector replacement or if they didn't put something back together right... 2005 f 350 6.0...
View 14 RepliesMy question is can a cracked injector tip let gases back in the fuel system?
View 4 RepliesWent to go and start my truck this morning and noticed after it was running that it sounded like a misfire, then i seen the smoke... I shut the truck down and lifted the hood and seen that somehow i had a high pressure fuel injector supply line on the Lh side break off. The line that goes from the fuel rail to the injector port on the valve cover (theres 4 of them on a side). There doesn't seem to be an o-ring or anything on them, they are just pressed over and tighten down.
View 6 RepliesWith how touchy our diesel fuel system is to any contaminates...what locking cap will replace the OEM fuel cap? Also, looking for a locking DEF cap? Looking for caps for a 2016.
View 13 RepliesRebuilding my 7.3 and I'm in need of the removal and install tool for the injector sleeves/cups for the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel.
I'll pay all shipping charges and a small fee if required. I hate purchasing a tool I'll never need again, rather better not need.
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesI replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
I've got an injector #7 misfire, so it looks like I'll be replacing my first stick since the warranty expired.
Does the injector from Ford come with the copper crush washer? Will I need to buy anything else except for the oring kit?
where is injector 7? edit: it looks like number 7 is the farthest back on the passenger side. Great! I get to do the hard side.
AE pics below. I've never understood the Power Balance test, it most always looks the same. Seems to me something should look odd with #7, but I'm just not seeing it. As I shut down each cylinder one at a time, all made the engine run noticeably rougher, except it was only a subtle difference when shutting down #7. So that plus the code pointing at #7 lead me to believe that #7 is my culprit.
I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
View 14 RepliesOccasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
Is there a difference between the two harness #'s here besides the first number:
3C3z9d930aa
4C3z9d930aa
Are they the same part? Is one for a different model truck than the other?
What the size of the internal oring is? So far I have had no luck finding the size. I'm looking for the lower housing to body oring.
View 14 RepliesMy 6.0 keeps trying starts on a regular bases. I was told it was a week injector by mechanic so we replaced that one and bought a new starter. Within 2 days it had fried that one also. We did check batteries and they tested good even put them in another dismal and drive them for a week. Mechanic told us we need to put another injector in it. But I don't see how a injector can fry the starter.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 early build over 260K miles on it. After taking a trip out west Texas and back I noticed my truck starts to jerk a lot around the 50 to 60 mph range under moderate throttle. Getting a contribution code on #6. FICM voltage stays over 47v during KOEO and startup. Took an inferred thermometer and even after truck is at operating temp #6 is reading about 3 degrees cooler then the others.
When cranking the engine everything sounds smooth but startups are getting harder. Usually let it idle for a few minutes before taking off on cold start but I am having to let it warm up longer before I can get any power. Did a bubble test and passed and oil level hasnt changed. Fuel mileage has been sucking bad also. Safe to assume the injector is shot and needs replaced? Use Delo 5W-40 Syn every change with motorcraft filters.
I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
I bought my truck just after xmas with 46,000 kms on it. Quite new. AS I've put on almost 18,000 kms on since I bought it I recently noticed my motor is quite a bit loader than it used to be. There is more of a diesel sound to it. More injector noise one would think. Its one of the things that I've always like about the 6.7's. they are super quiet. What would cause my engine to get louder ??????
View 14 RepliesBeen working on a 2005 6.0 with 218kish miles on it. When I got the truck it had a contribution 2 code stored, no check engine light, just could see the code on the code reader.
Truck idled like crap, lacked power, so I replaced the injector. Truck improved but still had a miss, this time it had a stored code of injector 6.
Ordered another injector, got it installed today. Fired the truck up, ran perfectly, drove it around, absolutely 0 issues ran like a dream. Parked it for a few minutes before starting it again to wash it. Rough idle, not horrible, not noticeable. Cylinder 6 contribution code stored again, no check engine light.
So I drove it, I drove the hell out of it for about 15 minutes with the AC at full blast, WOT, etc etc. By the time I was done, truck was back to running smoothly.
Just walked outside after dinner to see if it would still perform well, or if it would idle poorly again, sure enough, 6 contribution, rough idle.
I just changed fuel filters with OEM, air filter is new. I just cleaned the EGR valve- although maybe it's not clean enough?? Oil change is tomorrow (had to wait for the filter to get shipped in).
I'm at a little bit of a loss on how to cure this miss, unless it's possibly an oil pressure issue from bad/old oil causing it?