Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Front Of Truck Covered In Coolant - No Coolant Pressure - Fix?
May 7, 2017
Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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Adding a coolant pressure gauge to truck? There are some expensive kits but considering I already have a gauge that would work, could I just buy a 5v sending unit for fuel pressure or oil pressure and have it work?
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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Im lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
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Having a puddle of coolant under truck after sitting. Shop said its a oring on the egr cooler. 1200.00? Is that normal?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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My good friend has a 2011 6.7 and has been dealing with a coolant leak for a few months. Dealership has had the rig a few times and said it passed " a pressure" test etc. and they see no issue, yet he finds a puddle under the truck when after it has been parked. How best to check it out? I'm not familiar with some of the common trouble spots on the 6.7 like I am with the 7.3.
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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How does one clear the computer to prevent the display "Check Coolant Additive" from appearing every time I start the truck. I know that a chemical test is needed to determine the status of the coolant.
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Nothing to be alarmed about, I'm just letting y'all know I have a coolant leak on the front of the motor. It leaks about 8oz. Of fluid/week.
I have been through the radiator issues, 5 in all on my '08 and 1 on my '11 at 52,000 miles. This one is different, I'm pretty sure it's the water pump.
I'll give the official word as soon as I can get it diagnosed. I guess it's because I tow all the time, nothing real heavy, just everyday use. Truck is hardly ever on its own.
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I just replaced the oil/egr cooler, stand pipes and dummy plugs along with all suggested upgrades, just filled with oil hooked up batteries and while filing with coolant it started gushing out from under the intake in front. I think I see an o-ring pushed out.. I hope I can lift the intake without removing the turbo!!!
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I have a 06 f250 that has a coolant leak in the front of the engine. It's was leaking about a month ago replaced the water pump it stopped. Then about 2 weeks later it started back up again. It only happens when the engine is cold. But once it warms up it starts leaking again. I am confused as all get out on this.
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I have a 2012 with 41k miles on it. I noticed it was leaking oil from the front of the motor. So...I checked the oil and found it to be over full. Assuming I overfilled when I changed the oil (2000 miles ago) I changed the oil again and made certain it was filled properly, 13 qts right in the middle of the dip stick. The oil leak stops. 1000 miles later the oil leak starts again. Too much oil again and the coolant is mysteriously low!!! The dealer can get me in two weeks from now.
Time to get the 7.3 back on the road, I knew I kept the old girl for a reason. 262k of miles no truck should endure and still going strong. I was 21 when I bought the 7.3 (16 years ago) and beat the crap out of it. This truck has been pampered compared to my past trucks. I was hoping to get 14 years out of this truck too.
Is the motor OK after having coolant sloshing around in there? I just hope ford stands behind this one. I have a feeling it's not an easy fix. I am sure glad I left everything stock.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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Stopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.
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Had a lot of snow in the North East last week. Tried to use the remote start three times without any luck. Cleaned off the windshield and it worked. At best the remote is a weak system with very little range. How to use it or make it work better?
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I have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
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