Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Front Cover At Inlet Pipe Broken
Apr 29, 2017
My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.
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I was filling my DEF tank (2015 Super Duty 6.7) with 2.5 gal jug a few weeks ago and while I was filling it, the small black rubber air inlet on the container that allows air into the container while filling my truck got sucked into the container and then straight down into my DEF tank before I had a chance to stop the flow. Is there a screen in the DEF fill hose to catch foreign objects like is in the gas/diesel fill hoses?
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I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
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I have a 4 inch MBRP turbo back straight pipe and I hear a lot of other 6.0 that sound much louder.
just curious as to why that may be?
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Would there be much oil in the down pipe if the oil deal was leaking on the turbo? I broke it loose to look at it and not much there, one small area that looked like it has had on it..
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Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
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Can you replace the passenger side up pipe without pulling the turbo, etc? My bellows blew out. Y-pipe is still ok. I've already deleted the EGR, so what's the best to put back? Go back to the original style or just put in a straight pipe? Where to get one?
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2006 F350 4X4 .. How in the heck do you get to it? I have that massive heat shield in the way and can't get a shot at even those bolts? One bolt left to get out then I can start going back together.
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After running perfectly fine all day my truck will seem to bog down and when I press the accelerator the reaction is extremely delayed and tons of black smoke will come out of the tail pipe before the truck actually gains power and takes off. The check engine light has been coming on but will turn itself off after the truck has been shutdown a few times....
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Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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My buddy install a BPD air/oil oil cooler in his 2003 F250 last week and now there is coolant pouring out the tail pipe. I haven't seen it but he tells me there is quite a bit coming out. It wasn't doing this before we installed the BPD oil cooler. Normally I would say bad EGR cooler but his EGR is deleted. This is the 3rd BPD cooler I've put in and this is the first time I've had any issues after the install. The install went smooth other than we broke the radiator and had to install a new one. I feel bad cause I'm hoping it wasn't something I caused but I just can't think of anything I did during this install that would cause coolant to be getting into the exhaust. He just had it towed to the local Ford dealership.
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When I pulled my HPOP cover the other day, noticed some RTV on each side where you have the small step down from the block and the piece of metal on the backside of the pump housing. The new gasket I installed had he step down and looked like it would fill the gap, but is the RTV necessary?
There was a previous leak on the turbo drain tube that the dealer I bought it from tried to stuff some kind of fiberglass material in there to absorb the oil. I half wonder if the dealer didn't try to "fix" the back of the cover leaking by cramming some RTV in there. I have to pull the cover again in a couple days and wanted to see if I needed to do anything special when installing the cover?
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I try to turn on my truck today and it will not crank. The day before I had change two injectors and I turned on the truck when two fill up my tank and I put a full bottle of injector cleaner with it. When I drove off, a few blocks down the truck turn off on me. I started to turn on the truck and every time I did it would blow heavy white smoke out the tail pipe and then it would shut off. I did this about 10 times until I decide to call a tow truck. The next day I empty out the fuel tank and fill it with diesel only. I tried to turn on the truck and it would not crank. I ended putting two new batteries and still the same result. What can this be ? 2007 6.0 Diesel ...
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I am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
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The truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
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Can I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
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Any luck reattaching tailgate end cap molding? Mine has a few broken tabs and is hanging on for dear life. But if I can reattach I would. I know I could drill a few holes and run in some self taping screws, but that would be quite ugly.
The tab(s) broke when lifting the heavy gate with the step closed one to many times. Using the left side now to close.
Part number 8C3Z9941018AA.
Item 2 in below image...
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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As far as I can tell, the rectangular breather is full of some type of stainless mesh. I cannot separate the halves. I may have pulled a bonehead move and left it tin the solvent tank and didn't realize it was still on....ofcourse it was full of solvent. Just cleaned it real well. I drained it and am going to let it dry out before install next week.
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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