Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fan Stays Engaged Until The Truck Hit Operating Temperature
Jun 21, 2017
I replaced my fan clutch... Not a bad job, did it a couple weeks ago. I don't drive the truck much, but took it out today for the second time in the two weeks since I replaced it. The fan stays engaged until the truck hit operating temperature it seems. Is that normal?
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My best friend has a 2011 Ford F-250 6.7 ltd power stroke diesel XL. He was driving to Denver in -4 degree weather when all of a sudden his windows iced up and the temperature gage would not sit at normal operating range. ( stayed all the way down on the cool side) the heater seemed to be blowing warm air not hot like it usually does. The thermostat was changed 2 months ago any thoughts on this one?
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This is my wife's daily driver so I've got to get it done this weekend. 05 Excursion with 04 motor, 95,xxx miles. No problems until Friday. My wife drove to Seattle for a physical therapy appointment for my daughter and when leaving she said it felt like it was idling a little weird. She was at a stop light and when it turned green she could barely move, no power. Called me and everything sounded good from the Edge. Had the truck towed from Seattle to our house, about 60 miles. Idles really rough in drive, smooth's out a bit when in neutral. Starts totally fine when cold or hot, but doesn't start acting up until at working temp. When I say there is no power I mean the truck won't even pull up our drive way that only has a slight incline and is the length of the Excursion.
Only code I get is a P1000, but that is always on the tuner for some reason. I pulled the upper fuel filter and I'm getting fuel. Checked all the fittings I can see and nothing electrical seems out of the ordinary. New IPR and ICP within the last year. Tried disconnecting the EGR and it ran the same, but threw a P0403 and P0405 code. I've tried researching this and can't seem to find anything having to do with loss of power when hot. Sitting in the street in front of the house with the truck running I show an ICP of 750psi IPR of 28% @ 680 RPM VGT is 64.6 and MAF is 44.0. I can hear the turbo whistle, but show 0 boost which I think is normal when no load. I tried pulling into the drive when at temp and the truck was hitting 1000 rpm with pedal to the floor and wouldn't move, shaking and rough the entire time. Before all this my delta on EOT and ECT were under 5*
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The other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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I have a 2000 F250, 300k. Starts beautifully when cold, takes 10 seconds of cranking when at Operating Temperature. Did the injectors and plugs in September, kept doing it and now that it's summer it's getting harder and harder to start. Just replaced the ipr, still doing it. Gonna do an overdue oil change tonight or tomorrow, I'm hopeing that will improve it. I can understand 3 or 4 sec of cranking, but not 10. Truck hads no drivability issues whatsoever. Will an ICP fix it? Change to a heavy-duty 20w-50? (Last oil change was delo 15w-40) The code reader that I have is really basic, and only shows me RPM and map.
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I have a 2004 f150 with 135000 miles. Bought it a few months ago. I notice after the truck is up to operating temperature it seems to have a slight miss, you can kind of feel it when sitting in the truck. Cant really hear it. Outside the truck I am hearing a ticking sound. I have changed the spark plugs on the passenger side, because that's where the ticking sound was coming from.
Come to find out the last spark plug in the back was finger loose. Got them changed, on that side. Still have the miss after warmed up along with the ticking. Few weeks fast forward I put all 8 new COP on. Same results. I also have changed the oil and filter both with Motorcraft. Where I could look? I also have a 1 year unlimited mile power-train warranty.
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I have replaced the EGR over 1 month ago and also replaced the MAP sensor also as it was bad. I also have a Scan gauge, for monitoring.
The problem is once the truck gets to OT and the valve opens I have heavy black smoke on take off?
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When I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
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I have a 2007 F250 6.0 L with 116000 miles. I have never done any modifications or changed anything on the truck. Now that the weather is starting to warm up I've noticed that once the truck is at operating temperature it starts to chug and sometimes even die while driving and while its doing this the truck has no power. It does not seem to do it when its cold. Here is a picture of my gauges KOEO operating temp at idle...
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
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I used my 4x4 high for the first time. I switched it on at about 40mph on an icy road and heard a quick grind as it engaged. After it was active I noticed that I the truck sounded different. Not bad necessarily but I could definitely hear that the front drive shaft was engaged as I drove along. Is this normal? In my last Ram, the truck didn't sound any different as it operated in 4x4.
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I have another problem going on with my Sub. The ABS light stays on all the time. It has new sensors all the way around. I replaces all the brakes when if first bought this overgrown bobber. Is there something to look for that could cause this? Elsewhere?
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So I re filled with DEF fluid the other day and the warning light is still on and miles declining every time I turn on the vehicle to drive. Running out of miles before it says empty even though its not. Dunno if i'm able to make it to the dealer right away to get it fixed.
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2003 F250 6.0 ESOF - 4x4 and LOW lights on, TC not shifting
About the truck: 2003 F250 CCLB 6.0L 210k Miles
Heavy Duty Bulletproof Diesel Kit
Warn Front Manual Hubs (vac lines clamped/blocked)
Transfer Case Shift Motor/TCSM is off (I personally have not tested it and am still looking for what to test on it) or I will purchase a new one.
From seller: "What happened is, I accidently put it in 4x4 and when I turned the switch it would not go out. I had to limp it home slowly. When I got home I messed around with it, and could not get it to go back into 2x4. I removed the shift motor, and tested it. It tested ok. I shifted to back to 2x4 with a wrench and left it."
CURRENTLY the TCSM is off the transfer case and is in 2WD. Warn hubs are set to "FREE," seller also noted that this is how he has been driving it for quite sometime. TCSM is in 4x4 LOW, that is what I have to manually shift the transfer case to if I want to mount it up. I have been shifting it using a 14mm open end wrench and with the transmission in neutral. I have not tried turning the TCSM position manually.
Scanning using AE brings up different codes depending on transmission position and which scan is used:
P1812 4-Wheel Drive Mode Select Circuit Failure
P1819 Transmission Neutral Safety Switch Short Circuit To Ground
P1832 Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1876 Transfer Case 2 Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1865 Transfer Case Contact Plate Power Short to Ground
AE scanning for DTCs: P1832 and P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in PARK: P1812, P1832, P1876
AE scanning using OnBoard System " SYSTEM SELF TEST" with transmission in NEUTRAL: P1812, P1819, P1876
AE scanning with TCSM off: P1865, P1832, P1876
P1865 seems to be solved by simply installing the TCSM.
AE Live Data shows correct indicators for 4WD switch, showing corresponding drive mode in AE as the switch setting but nothing happens. No clunk/thud/movement. I have tried resetting the codes but the 4x4 and LOW lights both stay on. I tried it in park, neutral, engine off and engine on. I tried driving 5-10 mph to relieve any driveline wind up, I tried driving in reverse with front hubs free and locked, gave the same results in AE and no transfer case shifting.
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I
Found a thread with some fuses to check, I have checked fuses #19, 27, 31, 33, 34, 45 and 111 (with a multimeter for continuity),
Relays (first swapping the old ones, then trying new ones), I did the pinpoints from test I, and installed another GEM (same part number as mine but from a 2005 F-350)
Section 308-07A Four Wheel Drive Systems Pinpoint Test I led to my purchase of a used GEM, not knowing if it is good or bad, I have determined that I get the exact same codes for each AE Scan as the GEM that came with my truck.
I included a photo of my relay box, have any of you seen this type before? There is no other box in the engine bay with twin relays.
Air/Defrost switch works and routes air to switch setting. AC works, DEFROST works.
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
I want to avoid taking this to the dealer if their own service manual and diagnosis is going to have the same results as my testing.
Where do I go from here?
Could PVHS be causing a code from the manual hubs?
Could the MSS be causing a code even if it is showing correct in AE?
Should I try a new TCSM? Should I try turning the TCSM manually? How do I test, what do I test for on the TCSM?
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Using the Ford IDS ? My VCM 1 will not communicate with the PCM. The #3 light on the VCM stays solid red. I am running IDS 75.00. I don't have another truck to try it on. Bad cable from obdp to the VCM ?
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I cannot believe outside temp is not available on 2015's...I don't see it on any screen or in the manual.
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What is the average temp the transmission runs at? Wondering because it slipped the other day and the fluid smelt like it was burnt almost. Wanting to monitor it on my scan gauge and just try to ride it out as long as possible..
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
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I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
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