Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Fan Clutch Stuck In Engaged Position
Jul 25, 2017
06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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I haven't used my gn ball for probably 3 years went to pull it out and flip it over to use it and it is stuck solid. Tried pb blaster trans fluid hammering on it jacking the truck up by it heating it and no go. How to get it out.
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I picked up a 2004 GTI not long ago for pretty cheap because it had a few issues. I am working my way through them. However, having 3rd gear issue.
All other gears are perfectly fine but there is way less play in the shifter in the 3rd gear position and I have to hold the shifter in position until the clutch is engaged (pedal up) to avoid the gear grinding. Once the clutch is engaged it stays in 3rd gear fine. It doesn't matter if I am moving from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Same deal. I have aligned the shifter several times using to proper procedures with no effect.
It never grinds 3rd with the clutch disengaged (so the synchro is fine?) and it will bang shift no problem. Oh and the clutch is less than a year old. It was installed by a shop before I bought the car. It's not really a big deal, but I would like to fix it. If I have to swap the trans that's fine, but need to figure out if it is a trans or linkage issue first.
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My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
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I replaced my fan clutch... Not a bad job, did it a couple weeks ago. I don't drive the truck much, but took it out today for the second time in the two weeks since I replaced it. The fan stays engaged until the truck hit operating temperature it seems. Is that normal?
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I used my 4x4 high for the first time. I switched it on at about 40mph on an icy road and heard a quick grind as it engaged. After it was active I noticed that I the truck sounded different. Not bad necessarily but I could definitely hear that the front drive shaft was engaged as I drove along. Is this normal? In my last Ram, the truck didn't sound any different as it operated in 4x4.
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Title says it all. Chirping sounds almost like belt noise but appears to be coming underneath the vehicle (and from further back than the drivers seat). Goes away as soon as I turn off tow haul (which provides engine braking). A quick visual inspection finds nothing amiss. Trucks runs and drives normally with or without tow haul.
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I have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
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I am working on a 2007 F350 ambulance for a volunteer fire department. It run great, even with the key turned off sometimes. This is an intermittent problem. About every 10 times it is used the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off. The instrument cluster turns on and off as normal. The other odd part is if you leave the key in the off position when the engine does not turn off the RPM starts going up. I have not left it in off long enough to see how high it would go. It does not have a remote start and never has.
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Replacing Steering Wheel position sensor. How hard of job is it?
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Having problems with warning beeper staying in the "off" position?? i am going to try and unhook the battery, but if that doesnt work, then what to do...
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Been starting get some faults that seems unrelated other than (I think is the) harness. Intermittent low voltage to the FICM and Throttle position actuator faults (I have a 04). All voltages and battery power is solid as a rock. Watching the throttle during key on and it too will do it's self test intermittently. Looking at the cable and noticed that it seemed to be repaired with black tape in the chaffing areas. Knowing that it went threw the recall of that cable, I was under the impression that it was replaced not repaired. Anyway I would like to know how hard it is to change it and any part numbers would be useful.
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I had a '11 and when I turned the key on all the gauges would sweep across and then go to normal position. My '14 does not is that normal ?
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It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
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My Fan Clutch seems to come on quite often when its not needed. Mostly when towing. I don't have any live monitoring system on my 05 excursion. no codes. I did recently replaced svt sensor and radiator was found with a leak replaced that. still having that problem?
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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My coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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I'm hearing a plane type sound on my 2004 f-250 6.0 and i also noticed the temp gauge needle went up but still in normal range and then went back to the middle range when slowing down or parked. I had a combustion test done and a leak test was done and all passed. The reservoir tank had a leak and changed that before all the test were done. The mechanic did various run test and it didn't over heat but it did when i got it back. My guess is that the fan clutch is out but not sure. An AutoZone guy came out and looked at the fan clutch and asked me to turn it on and hit the gas and then shut it off. He noticed that the fan clutch kept turning fast and he said it's not supposed to do that.
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My Edge is reading "PO528: Fan Speed Sensor Circ No Signal". When I'm pulling a large 5th wheel up a 4% hill by the time I hit the top (if I don't slow down)warning beeps are gong off and my ECT is at 240. I can hear the fan come in at 215 and it stays in all the way up in temperature.
All the posts say c/o the fan clutch. While that may fix the fault signal, would it do anything for the temp situation. If the fan is locked in it seems like a lot of money just to clear the fault. Or......is the fan still slipping but sounding like it's working? This my be not related but I did notice that as the temp rises the AC starts not working. By the time I reach the top of the hill it is blowing hot. As we go down the other side and ECT comes down, it starts cooling.
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At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
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