Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: F250 Front End Rattles?
Jan 16, 2016
Bought this truck back in September. I thought the ball joints were going out. So decided to replace everything i would think of. The ball joints, hub bearings, all the tie rod end parts, sway bar links & bushings, and the seals around front u-joints. Now i still have the same rattle. Sounds like a piece of metal rattling in a tube. Really it sounds like the ball joints are out, which i know they are not. Also i greased them again (Just to make sure) and no change.
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I have a 2012 F250 4x4 6.7L Diesel with around 114k miles on it. Jut in the past couple weeks it has produced this issue: At start-up/during warm-up it when I make a turn (left or right) and hit at least 40mph the steering feels heavy and pulling to the right, all of a sudden it seems to release and dart a little to the left. It does this for about 10 miles then it is fine. Steering is a little loose, 114k miles and previous owner had a plow on it but once it straightens out it is fine for the rest of the 45 mile treck. Tires are new Goodrich All Terrains, no visible signs of a belt being broke.
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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Ok here goes. I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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This is my first winter with my 6.7 and I've noticed that since the weather has been cold the motor rattles a lot more, doesn't seem to want to rev as freely and it seems like the turbo response is slower. I've noticed that my truck goes into exhaust cleaning more frequently, three times in the last week before Christmas. The transmission thumps on downshifts the colder it is. The first shift out of my driveway is between a thump and a bang. The dealer told me I'm not ready for a trans flush, it's not cold enough to need to use the engine heater and that some of the noise and lack of performance could be winter blend fuel.
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I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and am having a serious issue. The truck has about 240,000 miles and has been great until now. About a week ago the truck was running great and had plenty of power. I decided to wash it with my pressure washer (did not spray under the hood, however I did spray in the front wheel wells and underneath the truck). About 5 minutes after washing the truck, I took it out for a drive and noticed when I really got on the accelerator the truck would not want to try harder and motor got very quiet. Really all you could hear was the turbo whistling. Over this past week the problem has gradually gotten worse... a few days ago I had to feather the pedal in order to go up hills. If I gave it more than about 1/4 inch of accelerator, the motor once again would get quiet and the truck would start to slow down and would not want to work.
However, if I let up and only gave it a small amount of accelerator, the motor would sound normal again and it would pull up the hill. Today, I can do nothing more than idle back and forth in the driveway because the motor gets quiet and the turbo winds up if you give it even the slightest amount of accelerator. I have no idea if it's a coincidence that this happened after washing the truck, or if maybe there was a sensor that was rotted and about to die and I finished the job with the pressure washer. I already replaced the egr valve and have been running tons of Howes diesel conditioner and anti gel through it. The injectors were replaced about 50,000 miles ago so I'd hate to think it was them. The truck doesn't smoke at all either.
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I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
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First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
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My truck died on the way home the other night. After pulling over it started right up but died three more times on the way home. Changed fuel filters, cps sensor which wasn't bad when tested, checked fuel pressure (60 psi), cleaned egr valve, fcim has 48 volts, batteries have 12 volts. Tried unplugging egr valve and icp sensor. Truck will start with icp unplugged . Ipr, stand pipes and dummy plugs were replaced last year when I purchased truck. Truck will run in park fine no issues idled normal, builds rpms and boost. Put it in drive when it gets warm rough idle and dies but starts right back up evertime. When truck doesn't die it has no power.
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