Ok so I'm looking at two trucks. One is a 02 f250 extended cab lariat 7.3 270,000 mi the other is a 05 f250 extended cab lariat 6.0 150,000 mi. The 6.0 has been bulletproofed by a reputable power stroke mechanic. I like them both iv never had a 6.0 always 7.3 ....
View 14 RepliesHow important would it be for me to upgrade to a f350. Currently own a lariat f250 4x4 crew cab. Recently sold a 5th wheel (2000 pin weight) that put me over weight. I just listened to the sales person. Recently purchased a 28' arctic fox 26x with 1000lb tounge weight. Gvw of trAiler is 10400, dry weight 7450. We pack light much lighter than the 5th wheel. Three bikes, three kayaks along with wood in the back. I have a equalizer weight distribution hitch along with airbAgs. I'm looking to replace with a 2014 or possibly a 2015. I would prefer to stay with a 250. What do you think? 2014 have great deals right now. I'm don't think the extra torque/hp would n a big deal.
View 14 RepliesI know on certain years the F250 and F350 really weren't any different. Same axles etc. I guess the F350's got an extra overload spring?
I am more curious than anything what separated an F250 from F350 in this year range.
My wife and I recently retired. We are going to buy a used F250 PowerStroke and a tag-a-long camper that weights around 5000lbs. I have heard to stay away from the 6.0 diesel. Looking for info as to the good and bad points on the 6.0. and 7.3.
View 8 RepliesI am on the market for a 2015 Ford F350 with an 11' Royal utility body on the back for my electrical contracting business.
Ford have come back to me and said I need a F450 as I am going with the supercab, the F350 can not handle the 11' utility body.
I have head that the F450 can cost more in Insurance and use more diesel. I contacted my insurance company and they said it wouldn't change to much, this is in CA.
Is there any differences between the F350 and F450 apart from the rear axle and larger brakes. Also if there a major difference in MPG.
I currently have a Ford F150 Limited and love it!
I own a 08 F350 which has 4:10 gears. After this last trip to AZ pulling 5th wheel and only getting 7 - 8.5 mpg driving 65 most of the trip, I'm seriously considering a new F350. Switch from 2008 to 2012 with about the same truck? I'm thinking of going back to 3:73 which I know works a bit. But if someone did switch what was your mileage difference. I have been also tossing idea of replacing my 4:10 with 3:73 to improve mileage. My 08 only has 24k on the clock.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford f250 Diesel 4x4 with - unfortunately - the crappy 6.0 engine. Yesterday my Daughter parked in the yard and this morning the truck not only will not start but will not even turn over. I thought maybe the batteries were dead but that is not he case. When you turn the switch on you can hear the pump start up but it will not turn over? All the lights come on and the bell comes on when you open the door and the dashboard lights work but the thing will just not turn over. I am assuming this may be some type of electrical issue or something but whatever the problem is it just came out of the blue. Ford imo should have recalled this engine.
View 14 RepliesI have an 05 f250 with 109k. Recently I turned off my truck, waited about 45 min or so and upon returning the truck would just crank and crank with no fire. After waiting about 4hrs the truck started right up like nothing was wrong.
Yesterday it did it to me again. This time I have it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran like a champ all the way to the shop..... I got the call today from the mechanic saying I have 5 injectors that are bad, 2 glow plugs and harnesses. His quote was 2400 out the door.
I had this truck for two months no problems yesterday went on a small trip about 50 miles in on ,the hwy. I start seeing some smoke and then no power turned off & on engine several times a little hard starting no power at all I put the pedal to the floor It barely moves ran into another super d. guy he said fuel filters , I turned around and crawled back home and changed fuel filters still no power. no codes "don't no where to start".
View 8 RepliesI got a problem with my Ford F250 6.0 Diesel. The truck got a new HPOP but still wont start. ICP show everything between 15 und 75 PSI, it raises to 75 PSI max during cranking. The IPR shows 84,75% during cranking.
We get the code P0270 and P2285 in exchange but never together. We already checked the FICM but it looks good on the inside. I now ordered a new ICP sensor....
I have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
View 14 Replies2005 F250 4X4 6.0 .. Why my truck just stopped going when put in gear and the TOW/HAUL light just kept coming on, without pushing it 2 days prior? Now it will not go anywhere, starts great, gas pedal works because RPM's go up when pushing! Just will not go when put in drive or reverse! What else I can do? I replaced cylinoid B in the transmission, speed sensor, and brake switch.
View 14 RepliesMy 6.0 has been leaking oil for a couple weeks now, possibly longer judging by the staining underneath. Very slow leak. 1 drop hits the ground when I get off work and go to get in the next morning. It never really reads off the dipstick a drop in the level. I had to top up the oil yesterday but that is from about a 2-week span. But I want to get it fixed. I've attached pictures of where it's coming from and was hoping to get pointed in the right direction. Also its a 05 f250 and coming from the driver side.
View 14 RepliesThis has happened twice now, both times immediately after towing. I'll start it, begin to accelerate, and it will just putter out. It'll start right back up but it'll putter out again. After 20-30 minutes it'll start (and run). I have an edge programmer and it doesn't turn on when this happens. I get a turbo warning on it that the psi is at like 43/46 even though I'm essentially at idle so it seems to be getting a faulty error thinking the turbo is under too much load.
View 6 RepliesMy 05 F250 CC 4x4 had a problem where it was wondering to the right.
I had the front end checked out and they said everything was good and within spec but they discovered a bad tire (internal belt separation).
Had two new front tires installed/balanced and the problem seemed to go away for a few months.
Now the problem is back even with the new tires. Could the steering box cause this or is there something else I should be looking at?
2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 and almost 175,000. On vacation right now and noticed when I came out of a store that there was a puddle of water under the passengers side. Chalked it up to AC defrost. The second time I was not running AC and puddle again.
Felt and smelt of it...antifreeze. Just put in all new Zerex G05 and a new degas tank because when working on it I noticed a pin hole in the base before we left. I replaced the EGR cooler and hose from Sinister about 3 plus years ago.
Would the EGR cooler hose be leaking? I've noticed that white residue on top of the intake around the where the hose is. What would cause this, Heat, wear and tare....my luck ?
2005 F250 Superduty Crewcab 4x4 6.0L diesel/auto
Wife drove the truck before me and bunched the floor mat under the pedals. I didn't notice the mat issue when I drove the truck today. I accelerated fully after doing a left turn onto a busy highway. The motor spun up hard with the accelerator floored but because of the mats, the pedal stuck all the way down. I was approaching stopped traffic while under full acceleration and I shut the engine off and pulled over to the shoulder all while braking hard ( it was a hell of a ride!). I freed the pedal and restarted the engine.
Now, despite a bit less than 1/2 tank of fuel (I have the 38 gal tank), the dash readout was showing "Low Fuel", the gas gauge was below E and the engine was running like it was running out of fuel. I turned the engine off again and left it off for 1/2 hour before restarting it but the gauge and engine still behaved the same. As I drove to the nearest diesel station, the engine was not running "right". Of course the station I pulled into had 1 diesel pump and the pump was broken.
Because I thought I might actually be out of fuel, an understanding stranger took me to the store to buy some gas cans and then to another station to get 6 gallons of fuel. I got back to the truck and added the 6 gallons of fuel. When I turned the key on, the fuel gauge immediately came up to 1/2 tank. I then drove to that other station and added another 15 gallons of fuel to fill it. This confirmed that I had about 18 gallons of fuel in truck when the "Low fuel" warning occurred.
So, what the heck was going on with the fuel gauge? I am sure the "Low Fuel" warning is tied directly to the gauge but why was the gauge reading low? Is it possible that the "Key-off" while under full acceleration followed by hard braking had confused the ECU? I am just trying to figure out if I have a fuel sender problem or a confused computer that corrected itself. Until this incident, the fuel gauge has never been a problem but the wife messing up the mats has been an issue!
2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?