Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Extreme Lag In Acceleration / Occasionally Doesn't Want To Start
Oct 22, 2015
I am noticing a extreme lag in acceleration. When taking off from a stop it lags really bad then acts like I floored it. My FMP is 48 sometimes dropping to 47.5. FLP is 13 sometimes dropping to 11.5 during starting. Occasionally it doesn't want to start, like its not getting fuel. New batteries 3 months ago. Also has blue spring. Its a 2005 thats never had anything done to the FICM, so its kind of old to begin with. I read in another thread that the FICM relay should be replaced occasionally, so may that could be contributing to some of my probs.
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Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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First of all, I have 2004 f-350 92K miles with a stock 6.0 - EGR deletes and new oil cooler is the only updates.
Two weeks ago I had an issue pop up. When I tried to start from a dead stop there was no acceleration, it would idle ok but when i pressed on the peddle NOTHING! I called the local diesel guru, he recommended I change the fuel filters. After I did this there was a tremendous improvement in performance.
After a few days of normal driving, I noticed a subtle reduction in throttle response. Today I noticed a slight lag when accelerating which lasted about 3 miles until there is once again no acceleration. It will start normally and idle is a little rough, but will not accelerate even in park the engine is extremely slow to accelerate.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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My ficm has been dropping to 44v occasionally so I have ordered a 270a alternator from Ed at ficm repair along with the complete battery cable kit. I also took ends advice and bought two new odyssey 65 series batteries. I went with bpd 6phase ficm though because I like the idea of the extra phases to share the load and back up the 4 primaries. I am also doing the blue spring upgrade while under the hood as well.
So my question is this.... My truck is bone stock no mod 53k mi. The bpd ficm can be set to 48,53 or 58 v. I do not see the need to do 58v but have seen a lot of guys doing the 53v option. What is the advantage of 53v? I know if you run 220 thru a 120v light bulb it will burn bright as hell for a little bit till it blows, is this the case with running a higher voltage ficm? Will it eventually wipe out injectors? Or even the ficm processor board? Should I just stay at 48v setting?
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Finally got back home and I have the TBC Fault occasionally pop up on the dash and sometimes the C2803 fault code (Brake Pressure Transducer Sense Circuit Failure). Both have happened without the trailer connected. Is it the OEM brake controller? Or possibly the sensor at the base of the Brake Master Cylinder?
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I installed the Roll X on my truck on the 27th of June. On several occasions I have found one corner has come unlatched. I'm not sure if it is from the bed flexing when I go over a bump or what?
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I have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
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I have a 2011 F 350 super duty 6.7 diesel. Occasionally while driving I am getting a cackle from the engine and it sputters and sounds like and feels like it's going to stall out. There is no power. It only happens occasionally. It happens mostly when Im driving, not accelerating from a stop. Example would be driving along for a while then try to accelerate off a ramp on to interstate. I brought it in and of course the excuse is we can't get it to replicate what I discribed. They did adjust something in the transmission shifting pattern. I get irritated when I paid for a loaded f350 diesel lariat and it has issues like this.
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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What makes a 6.0 or 7.3 "clack"? I am not experienced enough with internals of a diesel to understand it.
Reason I ask, is my 6.0 is clackier than ANY other 6.0 or 7.3 that I have encountered. I mean it really cackles. Injector timing?
the engine was "bulletproofed" and (as the seller stated to me) was "flashed with a custom designed tune made by a Powerstroke specialist"... to which I have no further information on. This I assume was done for longevity and not performance.
Its quiet on the highway, but in town and stop-starts or low-speed acceleration it is crazy crackly.
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What is a "normal" number people see on their load factor? Mine was around 25-30 a few weeks ago but I noticed it is increasing to around 30-40 once I'm in gear, in park it's fine. My acceleration is also getting a bit sluggish too especially going up hills and my throttle isn't responding all the way, my turbo boost is normal though and I don't think there is any VGT stiction. I'm thinking either a fuel filter or a MAF sensor to start with. Fuel filters have been in exactly 10 months. Can a dirty fuel filter, air filter, or MAF sensor affect engine load at idle and how fast it accelerates? I feel like I'm pulling a trailer and with it being more sluggish, my transmission is shifting harder as well.
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My ride again has started to develop a small studder during acceleration. It seems like only when it's cold. But when the temps are at normal it's not there.
At work now, but would like to get a heads up on it by the time I get home. To know what to look for.
No modes, no codes nothing but the studder.
Using T6 every 5000klm, fuel filter every 15000klm.
I have a fuel filter at home and will first replace it, before anything else.
BTW, all filter are OEM
About a year ago I had something similar. But I through some codes. I will look them up here at FTE.
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I'm getting some light surging while under acceleration. None at idle or once in overdrive. I cleaned out by exhaust back pressure although it wasn't really that dirty. Thinking about replacing the sensor anyway but it is a little pricy to just buy for no reason. Should I look for anything else? And where I'd the best place to get one? I've seen the 20 amazon ones or over 100 at the parts store.
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