Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: External Oil Leak And Stalling When Hot
Aug 26, 2017
I have a 2003 6.0 and I am havi g problems with it stalling once getting up to operating temps. I found a leak earlier after the engine stalled, it was leaking pretty good around a drop every 2 seconds but stops once the engine cools down some. I noticed the oil dripping from under the oil pan.
Can this be the cause of the engine stalling? Or just another problem? If it can be the cause where can the leak possibly be coming from?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
My 6.0 excursion has been stalling at stops, and in slow traffic for the past couple weeks. I've also had an oil leak (see my most recent post w pics)
Could those two things be related? The compression gauge shows its okay, What else could be causing the stalling? I just got a lead on a good diesel mechanic in springfield missouri (30 ) minutes from where i was today with the excursion, I don't know if i should risk a 2 hour drive back to springfield to take it to him.
I had the oil changed at a local shop last week and the tech told me the oil pan was leaking oil, but you can see on the pics I posted that that oil seems to be on hoses above the oil pan. So I don't know if the leak is coming from above or what.
View 14 Replies
I've been having this problem for a while and seem not be able to get anywhere.. so at first my truck had a stalling when hot getting low icp which lead to a new hpop, couple injectors, dummy plugs, icp.
Ever since I got the new hpop, now when it gets to operating temps the low pressure gauge drops, and once you get on pedal it goes back up then eventually stalls. Then have to wait till cold.. the low pressure gauge will not drop till oil is warm. Does it sound like a low pressure pump?
It's a 2005 6.0 with 213,000
View 12 Replies
My 6.0 stalls out when under load above idle intermittently. When it stalls, if I release the gas pedal and tap it, it usually catches again but not always. ICP is strong and doesn't seem to waiver when it stalls. Engine runs much better when oil comes up to about 180. Oil / water temp spread about 5 degrees.
View 14 Replies
So any ICP sensor been proven bad but i was not leaking oil? The symptoms of my truck sound similar to a bad ICP...fluctuating idle, surging, stalling, but it does run and start. IT tends to start acting up when it hits operating temp.
I have an 04 and the ICP sensor is in the easy spot to get to on the valve cover vs under the turbo (that's awesome) so its an easy swap. but just wondering if there is any way to test it over simply swapping it. I do not have a monitor yet but a dongle is on order and will get the torque app for my tablet.
View 14 Replies
I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2006 6.0 F350 that has started stalling intermittently. Truck starts right up after a few minutes and otherwise runs great. I'm getting trouble code p2617 (crankshaft position sensor). Reading on some of these forums it sounds like it could be a whole array of things causing this. Would this sensor be a logical place to start or what, if anything, should I look at before getting any parts?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2011 F 350 super duty 6.7 diesel. Occasionally while driving I am getting a cackle from the engine and it sputters and sounds like and feels like it's going to stall out. There is no power. It only happens occasionally. It happens mostly when Im driving, not accelerating from a stop. Example would be driving along for a while then try to accelerate off a ramp on to interstate. I brought it in and of course the excuse is we can't get it to replicate what I discribed. They did adjust something in the transmission shifting pattern. I get irritated when I paid for a loaded f350 diesel lariat and it has issues like this.
View 8 Replies
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
View 1 Replies
External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
View 12 Replies
I am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
View 14 Replies
I had my truck at the dealer a while back while it was still under warranty and I told them that it was leaking around the oil pan. It was bad enough to coat the pan in oil, but no drips on the floor. They claimed no issue and sent me home. Well now my warranty is up and it's dripping on my shop floor. It is weeping out around the bolt heads.
I'm going to call the dealer in the morning and see if they will work with me since I did have it in under warranty for this same issue.
View 14 Replies
Crawled under the new to me 13 super duty last weekend to see this. Where it's coming from? Over tightened oil filter maybe? The filter in the picture is the new filter fyi. Old filter had a little oil on it. It's all the way across the back of the oil pan.
View 14 Replies
2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
View 13 Replies
We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
View 1 Replies
Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
View 3 Replies
I just had my 14 350 dually in for its 10k mile service. They told me I had a oil leak somewhere on right side of my engine. They cleaned it and put some die in it, told me drive and bring back so they can put uv light on it to see where it's coming from. I haven't had time to take back yet as I just started a new job, but I've put about 900 miles on it and it's definitely got a leak! I crawled underneath today and the oil pan right beside the oil filter is wet with oil. Trying to figure out what I might be looking at.
View 14 Replies
I've had a minor oil leak since I got my truck back from having the EGR, head studs, head gaskets, oil cooler done. It's gotten quite a bit worse lately to the point that I'm going to have to fix it. I added some UV dye and traced it up to the engine valley. All the leakage seems to be toward the back of the valley. Is there a common component that is prone to leaking in the valley that could be a starting point?
View 14 Replies
just picked up a 2004 (May, 04) F350 DRW with the 6.0 Powerstroke. I love this truck so far. After sitting in the driveway overnight, I noticed a decent sized puddle of oil on the driveway, probably the size of my fist. I took several pictures for diagnosis:
Any quick thoughts as to where this oil leak is originating?
View 6 Replies
I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
View 11 Replies
